'Fusion' food is finally moving past cheeseburger wontons: A new generation of US chefs wants to take “fusion” beyond a punchline

OK, I'll say it; I really hate the conceit of this article.

Yes, cheeseburger wontons and kimchi tacos are bad, but not because they are called fusion. They are bad because they weren't that good to begin with. But those are bad examples amidst a sea of good examples. How about hard-shelled tacos? What about Japanese-style curry? Asian fusion in America is not only Americanized Chinese food, it's often a fusion of the many regional cuisines of China as well as Taiwan, Hong Kong, and other neighboring countries. Japan in particular actually has an entirely different branch of cuisine called yoshoku, which is western dishes altered for the Japanese palate.

This article is so backwards and unspecific that it doesn't know what to do with the process of topping fries with other culture's foods:

... “fusion,” however, evoked specific clichés, like French fries topped with sweet, cured Filipino tocino.

Now at Badmaash, a grown-up version of that burger shares the menu with cheese-stuffed naan and chicken tikka poutine....