E-bikes: Seeking advice on a commuter bike that meets disability needs
I've done considerable e-bike research, and I'm still struggling with unanswered questions...
I'm looking for a mid-range e-bike mainly for commuting, approximately 3 miles/5 km each way. Part of the route is on unpaved but graded park trails, otherwise paved (sometimes very bumpy) streets and sidewalks. I don't anticipate using the bike for heavy cargo, rough trails or long powered rides, but wouldn't mind working up to 30 mi/50 km trips with partial assists.
The primary goal is a safe, stable ride that gets me to work reliably without leaving me too banged up.
Requirements:
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Major assistance with steep hills. Though I've rebuilt decent endurance and muscle strength, I've got two artificial hips, and occasional inflammation in knees, ankles, and feet that makes powering up a long incline painful.
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Suspension fork and relatively upright riding position. Even with gel gloves, bumps and bangs through a rigid frame and forward leaning will wreck my wrists and hands quickly.
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Step-through frame. Thanks to hip replacements, my balance and range of motion aren't all they could be.
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Local service availability. Fortunately, I'm in a town with great (if expensive) bike shops.
Nice to have:
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60 lbs. or less. I don't expect to wrestle the bike up/down stairs or into vehicles frequently. It's more a question of being able to propel it under my own power most of the time and carry it on a standard car rack. I've looked at e-trikes for stability, but they're too heavy and cumbersome.
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Hydraulic disc brakes, belt drive and sealed motor hub (expensive but cleaner for commuting and lower maintenance), torque sensor.
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Integrated lights.
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Fenders, chain guard, rear rack, kickstand, phone holder included or available at reasonable cost.
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Visual appeal - colors, not too obvious battery, etc.
Overnight recharge is fine, the battery doesn't have to be removable.
Possibilities so far:
Priority Current (via Costco). review,
review
Con:
- Rigid frame
- Complaints about required pedalling and power distribution on hills
Pro:
- Meets most of the requirements
- Model has been out for a few years with an established track record
- Well-reviewed
RadPower Radster Road Regular review, review
Pro:
- Checks all requirements
- Safety emphasis
Con:
- Heavy (78 lbs.)
Electric Bike Company Model E or R
review, review
Pro:
- Extensive customization available
Con:
- Cruiser style less likely to be comfortable for long rides
- Model R is 78 lbs.
Ride1Up 700 Series ST review, review
Pro:
- Inexpensive
- Meets most requirements
Con:
- Assembly difficulties reported, no local dealer
Aventon Level.2 Step-through review, review
This is still early research... but more questions:
- What am I failing to consider?
- What's an appropriate price point to look at for my requirements (keeping in mind that I'd be paying as much as $150/mo. for transit when not using the bike)?
- Anyone else in a similar spot?
Edit - updates on continuing research, for those interested in comfort bikes... So many manufacturers! It might be time to turn the optimizer brain off. Quite a few of the online-only vendors are just mixing and matching Chinese parts. Reports of terrible customer support and quality/safety issues are common.
New candidates:
Cannondale Adventure Neo 2 EQ Speed
Reviews of this specific newer Class 3 model are scarce, but other Neo models get mostly rave reviews from older riders with various disabilities. As much as I've loved Cannondale bikes, there are some reported quality and design issues in comments that give me pause. The only reason I'd consider an e-bike in this price range is if it's a durable, realistic car replacement capable of safe use in very bad conditions.
Pro:
- Most of the important wishlist items covered
- Top quality powertrain and gearing parts
- Torque assist - comments say it's smooth and you never miss a manual throttle
- Versatile for city and road
- Locally available
Con:
- High price even with quality factored in
- Chain guard not included, and it should be at this price
- Comments mention battery is difficult to remove
Envo seems like a reliable Canadian brand that's doing interesting things. There are U.S. distributors. Dollar purchasing power makes this a potentially excellent value choice.
Envo Lynx 20" Only one professional review, but customers seem happy. I wasn't considering folding bikes originally, but this seems well-made, has English-language support, and has decent specs for the price and flexibility.
Envo ST 50 - few if any comments available, but the stepover D50 model gets rave reviews. Meets all requirements, with excellent range for longer trips.
Mokwheel Asphalt ST review, review, review
Pro:
- Meets wishlist with moderately priced accessory package
- Adjustable stem angle
- Excellent price for features
- Extra safety lights
Con:
- DTC-only (US-based)
- Lower-quality and range of gearing
Tenways AGO T review, review
Pro:
- Meets wishlist
- Premium components
- No-brainer torque control and CVT
- Stylish
Con:
- May be underpowered for steep hills
- Class 2 limited (may be hackable)
- DTC, based outside US
Zen Photon Pro review
Pro:
- Wishlist mostly covered
- Premium components
- Powerful hill-climbing capability
- Long range
Con:
- Price is over upper limit of budget
- Relatively new to market
- Users complain about weight
Ride1Up Prodigy V2 LS CVT review, review, review, review non-CVT. This might be the pick - meets requirements and then some, good value for quality, relatively future-ready, adaptable for the conditions I'm likely to encounter, and comfortable. It doesn't hurt that it's $300 off right now.
Just to further complicate your options... :)
These guys are a good resource for electric conversion kits for any bike. Find the bike that you like most and make it electric. A Dutch style "upright bike' sounds like what you're aiming for but especially electrified they're unusual on this side of the Atlantic. Personally I think it's a very doable option, but that of course heavily depends on how willing and able you or your friends/family/local bike shop are to go more DIY though.
There's a lot you can upgrade as you go too. A "more upright" seat would be a very easy swap for any bike, curved handlebars should also be something any bike shop could help with. If you feel you need a different phone holder a few months down the line, or different/more lights or what-have-you, those are relatively painless to just add to most bikes.
For commuting I think fenders/chain guard should be a high priority, either included with the bike or third party ones soon after. The rest of the accessories you're looking at I'd lean toward third party add-ons as well unless the whole package is really tempting. Bikes in general tend significantly more toward aftermarket customization and what fits your needs / physicality / taste than modern cars do.
I appreciate the advice. DIY tinkering would have delighted me, but my hands aren't very strong or agile anymore, and I need to be protective of their remaining function. Local bike shop labor is very expensive.
I have a well-loved old Cannondale road bike that I thought about converting. Unfortunately, it's exactly wrong for what I need now - full stepover, forward riding position, no suspension, narrow-gauge wheels, cleated pedals, mechanical brakes and derailleur, etc. Even without those faults, I wouldn't feel safe upgrading a lightweight frame to go at powered speeds. [Know anyone who wants a well-maintained old-fashioned mid-range touring bike, circa 2005, 28" frame?]
Since have to invest in a whole new bike anyway, my inclination is to get a proper package with compatible parts. Electric Bike Company offers a variety of manufacturer customizations for several styles of upright ride, including Dutch-style handlebars, seat with back bar, and so on. It's going to feel weird to ride in a position with maximum wind resistance, though.
The site you linked does make the excellent point that current batteries have a 4 - 6 year life expectancy. Sleek integrated batteries limit the life of the bike to its manufacturer's long term viability. I'll keep that in mind.
Totally understandable. I do really appreciate the sleekness of the manufacturer built ones too. Making them a more marketable 'vehicle' instead of 'athletic equipment' is probably a good direction for them to be moving.
It does feel weird going from the more 'athletic' posture at first, but in general I think it's nicer. More airflow, less sweaty (even without electrification), more situational awareness.
One of the things I didn't think about that's really going to come in handy - the current step-through commuter bikes adapt to a greater range of rider sizes than step-over frames. It turns out that my spouse, who's 6" taller, would be able to ride the same frame size as I need in most of the bikes I was looking at.
Since the e-bike would be our second vehicle, and we both have about the same commute length, the versatile frame will make it easier to swap car and bike as needed.
I have no idea about E bikes, but have you considered getting an upgrade?
In all seriousness, I have enormous respect for your effort in making the switch. I live in a place where biking to work would not be remotely feasible, but I don't think I would have the drive even if I did.
That's actually extra funny because I was in an aquatics rehab class with a group of substantially older people at the time of my first hip replacement. They called me "Bionic Woman" afterward because it made such a huge difference.
Seriously, I'm not too impaired to bicycle for distance on a stationary bike, and I'd really like to get back to riding if I can.
I'd say the latest folding Rad stepthrough: https://www.radpowerbikes.com/collections/electric-bikes/products/radexpand-plus-electric-folding-bike?variant=40266316939360
I wouldn't worry about hydraulics; cable-activated discs are more than adequate, and simpler to maintain in many ways. Belt drive is very nice, but again, I wouldn't worry about it at all.
I've been riding a RadPower non-folding bike since 2015. Still using the same battery, original chain, same discs. A few thousand miles. It's ~65 pounds, but you don't feel the weight at all when riding with even minimum assist. The spring seat (with spring chosen appropriate for my bodyweight) and rear-view mirrors are my only add-ons. Fat tires at a medium-low pressure are excellent shock absorbers, and (IMO) a good safety benefit on rougher roads. Don't bother with the extra weight of the tube protectors, just pre-slime the tubes.
Mine uses a slightly older version of the same motors the modern ones use, and the 750W is perfectly adequate for getting my 250-lb self up even very steep hills with minimal effort. I do have to help some, but it really isn't much if I don't want to, and my ~175lb friend doesn't need to pedal at all. My only regret is not getting the folding version, as storage (and travel with a vehicle) is so much easier! I'm 50/m, FWIW.
[edit] The seatpost I mentioned https://www.radpowerbikes.com/collections/seating/products/sr-suntour-sp12-ncx-seatpost
Thank you for the detailed reply! I'd done some reading on folding bikes, and thought the tradeoffs on wheel size and durability might not be worthwhile. I'm not expecting to carry a bike on public transit or into the office. It's useful to know that the RadPower brand is trustworthy.
I've never ridden a fat tire bike, and I imagine it would feel very different from what I was used to. Do you feel like it's more stable, and worth the increased road friction?
Happy to help!
Fat tire bikes do feel very different than mountain bike or road bikes, and you do notice the extra friction, especially if you're running at lower pressures. (Which you should be doing, to get the benefits of the tire size.) It's not terrible or anything, but it's there. That's if you're riding without assist.
Once a motor comes in to play, it's all benefits. They eat bumps and pavement discontinuities that would have you wince on a mountain bike, and crash on a road one. They float over softer dirt and gravel without mushing out. Most importantly for my no-longer-young frame, they're a lot easier on my body, even without the mechanical complexity of shocks.
The one negative that just is what it is, is that fat tires also collect goat's head thorns in my area to an annoying degree compared to my more traditional mountain bike. I played around with all kinds of liners (really didn't like the increased wheel mass) and expensive, thicker tubes that didn't really help. My ultimate solution was to go back to regular tubes and double-dose with tire slime. I don't even bother patching them, just pull out the thorns and keep riding. If you don't have nature's caltrops in your area, this may be less of an issue, but it's worth mentioning just in case. I recommend the slime regardless.
The reason I regret not getting a folder is because there are several trailheads in my area that I'd love to ride, but regular car/bike mounts are surprisingly difficult with heaver e-bikes, and hard on the bike itself to boot. My friends that have folding ones just toss them in their car's trunk, which fast, easy, and much more gentle on the bike itself. We're all old enough that our single-track days are behind us, so any durability differences between folding and non-folding frames hasn't shown up.
[edit] A couple of pictures of my bike, with seatpost, mirror, grips, etc. Mine does have front shocks, but (to my surprise when I learned this) I prefer the ride with them locked out, and just using lower pressure (8-12PSI) to smooth the ride. https://photos.app.goo.gl/B4JJE4fivynKmikF9
I don’t have much to add for the actual bike selection. But are you handy and also able to push the bike with your own weight in a worst case scenario? It’s really not fun having to push your 70lb ebike up a hill when the battery decides to crap out on you, or dealing with a flat in 40° weather.
I appreciate the concern. I used to be handy, but I'm not sure I could wrestle tires off rims unassisted these days. /u/Baeocystin suggested tire slime, and I'm all about prevention... I can twiddle a wrench to tighten a seatpost collar, just not anything that would require both force and dexterity, like remounting a chain. That's why I'm looking at a belt drive and sealed motor/CVT.
Fortunately, my legs are in good shape. I shouldn't have more trouble moving a 70 lb. bike uphill than a garden wheelbarrow with 250 lb. of compost. The routes I'm planning to use are urban/suburban or a very popular paved and groomed trail system, so it's unlikely I'd get into difficulties without any help available.
40 °F weather won't see me out on a bicycle, at least without heated gloves. I've got other commuting options available.
Chiming in with some more thoughts, hope you don't mind. :)
I do carry a CO2 inflator if I'm going on a longer ride. Just two cartridges. https://youtu.be/liDFmAjFDIs?si=AkdX1eBjZFX8_OkV&t=49 for the why if it.
This is the tire slime I use. ~6oz per tire for my 4" fat bike. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ENSRS0/
Valve stem cores + tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ENSRS0/
The janky tool that comes with the slime bottle is frustrating to use. This one is great. Spare cores are nice to have. After sliming the tubes, run a Q-tip soaked in isopropyl around the inside of the valve body before reinstalling the core, it'll save you a lot of trouble getting things to seat properly.
Both of these are tools that should be doable with a minimum of hand strength required. The valve cores can be a little fiddly if you have fine motor issues, but the tool is pretty forgiving if you take your time.
Hope this helps.
I welcome your contribution of wisdom! It's been a long time since I've done regular road biking - Florida had dangerous roads and nowhere fun to go. TBH, I never flattened a road bike tire while riding, and I'd gotten too complacent about it. A simple frame pump was all I ever needed to get home if things seemed squishy.
With more tire surface area and rougher trails and streets to worry about, you've given me useful information.
I’m generally very careful and have never gotten a true flat tire, but I got a pinch flat, which wasn’t fun. No actual punctures through the tire yet.
I’ve tried to go as long as possible without using slime, since I hear it can be a mess. Thankfully I’ve been mostly fine with tuffy liners. Nothing has gotten through yet!
There can be a little seepage from a fresh puncture. Very small amounts! Think of the amount of water it would take to saturate a q-tip, and the seep amount is usually about a quarter of that. Just enough to see a damp spot on the tire. And that's about it. :)
Then I think you will be okay! I also use heated gloves in the winter, not my favorite, but they do the trick. I honestly don’t even need to turn them on sometimes until it gets to around 30°, they are quite warm on their own.
Even with the fattest tires, winter cycling isn't going to be practical or safe for me. The kind of arthritis I've got can cause circulation problems in cold temperatures. Heated gloves help, but it's too risky if I can't warm up quickly when they quit. At 45 °N, it's pitch dark during commuting hours, with poor or non-existent street lighting.
Door-to-door public transit is $12 round trip, and completely worth it during the winter.
My mom has an Ampler bike. I’m not sure if they ship outside of Europe, but the reason I’m bringing them up is because the first time she showed me her bike, I didn’t realize it was electric. (pictures of that specific model)
They somehow do such a good job of hiding the battery in the frame and keeping the bike reasonably lightweight that you really wonder how they do it. Acceptable range, and while I’m no expert, seems a bit pricey in terms of cost. (42 lbs, ≈ $3,050 USD)
It’s a pretty great e-bike in general, but I’m not sure if it’s one for you specifically – last I checked, they seemed to have a setting that never gave power unless you were actually pedaling, which is probably not ideal here.
Thank you for the recommendation. I took a look at Ampler just now, and it concerns me that they're not transparent about the parts they're using. Very attractive and light bikes, but they seem designed for better-maintained European roads. I know I'm making a trade of power without pedalling (standard gears and throttle) for the easy maintenance of a belt and CVT, but I'm used to pedal-starting from a stop. That might be more of a challenge with a 60 lb. bike, so I'm just going to have to try it and find out.
The Cannondale and Priority bikes are good mid-range choices. Our of the bikes in your current list, I'd probably personally go with the Priority.
If you decide to go on the higher end of mid-range, there are a few additional bikes I'd recommend as well:
I'm unsure as to your price point, but the lower-end Comos and Verves seem like they satisfy your criteria, unless I overlooked something.
Thank you very much for the recommendations!
The only things militating against the Priority Current are the lack of front suspension and sizing problems mentioned below. I could get a suspension fork aftermarket, but it seems like a peculiar design omission for that model.
I'd like to avoid exceeding $3k USD. I did look at the available Cannondale, Trek, and Specialized models with the designs I'm seeking.
Aside from somewhat lower power/range/technology specs for the money, Cannondale, Trek, and Specialized don't seem to have a stepthrough frame size with a seatpost/handlebars that could adjust to fit both me (5' 4", 29" inseam) and my spouse (5' 10", 31" inseam). It may be that they're avoiding ergonomic concessions made in lower-end designs, but I'd like to try the Ride1Up Prodigy V2 model to confirm whether it actually fits both of us.
OTOH, the short warranty and high return costs for the Ride1Up really expose what's buried in premium brands' higher prices...
I looked again at the frame geometry of the Priority Current, and it's off the table, unfortunately. It's more of a midstep frame than step-through. Even the small size has a 22" tall base. I can do it, but there's a review from another shorter user who says they struggle with tilting the heavy frame to step over.
I have a level.2 and I really enjoy it for commuting to work when the weather is warm enough. I'm far from an expert, but I would recommend spending the extra $ on something with a full suspension. Eating potholes @ 20mph is not very enjoyable.
Thank you for the recommendation! I'm in typical Michigan road territory, so potholes, cracks, bumps, old Victorian brick pavers, and road salt residue are par for the course. I think front suspension and 2" tires will handle what I'm likely to encounter for purposes of protecting my hands and wrists. I can add seatpost suspension if needed.
We just got my dad an Ride1Up Turris XR after looking through the reviews on outdoor gear lab. He had a total knee replacement back in October and this bike has been an absolute dream for him. It has the throttle for if things get too bad on his knee and he can just jam home without pedalling. He's been doing about 10-20 miles a day and absolutely loves it. We have friends with the Rad bikes you mentioned as well and they all love theirs. I think we're getting to the point where it's hard to go wrong and the final answer will be whatever mix of cost, style, and weight/distance you want to go for.
A second thought it getting an after market seatpost suspension for whatever bike you choose. I have a few friend who live and die by these and in some cases, refuse to get full suspension mountain bikes because they like them so much. I think one of these on whatever bike you choose should have you feeling like you're riding on a cloud!
Thank you for the recommendation on the Ride1Up bike, and seatpost suspension. That might be a required add-on if my spouse will be riding, since he's got more shoulder/back issues to worry about than I do.
I'm at the point now where I'll have to see what's available for testing locally, so we've got a better idea as to whether to stay with a standard step-through frame or some of the more scooter/cruiser-like styles.
Nice, sounds like a really smart way to pick! For Ergonomics, you might also want to check out [Ergon](https://www.ergonbike.com/en/product/?a=saettel. They do much more around bike seat fit and comfort. I'm looking into getting one myself!
I wish the great Terry Liberator seat from my old bike would work for both of us, and upright riding...
I'm trying to keep the main focus on commuting, but part of safest route for our trips to work involves cutting through dirt/gravel trails. Otherwise, it's poorly maintained shoulders on 45/55 m.p.h. roads. And the streets are mighty bumpy, with significant hills... It's a real Swiss Army knife problem finding a single bike (and seat) style that will handle everything for two creaky people with different plumbing.
I can't speak for the other brands, but I have an Aventon Level 2 Stepthrough and I think it would handily tick off all your use cases. It's a bit heavy but well constructed. The assist has multiple levels and has been very useful for me. The bike is a very upright position. I remove the battery to charge at home.
It has a limited suspension in the fork so it eats some bumps.
I got it from Costco on sale in Canada.
Cost around $2000 CAD I think before tax
There's a local dealer for Aventon, so I'll definitely check it out. Thank you!
The new Gazelle Eclipse checks every box I think except for your price wish.
Maybe the Propel channel has another review that will help.
Propel Gazelle review
I appreciate the thought, but $6,000 is into used car territory! I'm just starting out on e-bikes, the technology is changing rapidly, and I'd prefer not to commit that much money right now.
Lol of course. I'm in a wait and see myself hoping the tech becomes cheaper as the category becomes more fleshed out and more options hit the market. But it's just not currently feasible at that price. That said, I like the reviews on this site quite a bit, even though most of the bikes they cover are out of price range.