4 votes

Pulsar X2 v2 Medium mouse battery replacement

Posted by winterstillness (edited )
Tags: hardware, ask.discussion, peripherals, computer mice

I wanted to put out a more complete guide than what's currently available for people who may want to do this in the future; welcome to my blog.

Love the mouse, but the battery wasn't lasting more than 3 days.

Here's a pic of the original battery (602030 300mAh 3.7V):
https://drive.proton.me/urls/TT7GVDNG5C#BKMx0MHmSwvg

I bought a replacement battery from AliExpress:
902030 550mAh 3.7V JST 1.5mm 3pin

Here's a pic of the final result:
https://drive.proton.me/urls/BEMDHJH668#I2ZixElmwv7E

There's plenty of height clearance, but no wiggle room with length and width.

The most important tidbit is the polarity of the wires; I had to swap red(+) and black(-).

On the original battery (all black wires) you can see the P- and P+ indicators on the original battery circuit board. In summary, the "bottom" of the connector (on the mouse) expects a positive (red wire), middle is the sensor (yellow wire), top is negative (black wire).

The battery arrived with the red and black wires the other way around. I used the smallest flathead screwdriver to, very slightly, prop the plastic "prong" (where you see the three plastic 'prongs', not the flat side) of the red/black wire and gently pull them out. Take note of the wire's positioning (the metal bit). The top has a very tiny metal bump that "clips" against the plastic prong you lifted. Putting the wire back into the housing should be "like a glove"; no forcing.

Everything is working without issues so far. The Pulsar software is reporting the battery level, but can't be sure if it's accurate. I also haven't had a chance to measure how long the new and improved battery lasts.

Another tidbit, I tore the "ribbon" when taking the mouse apart.
https://drive.proton.me/urls/DE33WP907M#Xc4A2qfEoMat

The cable connects the side buttons. I found a replacement (no thanks to Pulsar support who told me to either pound sand because they wouldn't even hint on tech specs of the cable or pay to ship to Korea and wait months for it to get sorted which it wouldn't because me disassembling the mouse isn't covered under warranty [fair enough]).

The exact title of the cable I ordered is: "uxcell FFC Flexible Flat Cable 10 Pins 0.5 mm Pitch B Type 80mm". The most important specifications are:

  • 10 Pins
  • .5 mm pitch
  • B Type
  • 80mm (perfect length, but can go a little shorter if you must)

2 comments

  1. Pavouk106
    (edited )
    Link
    Just an information on batteries of this type: the number 602030 and 902030 means the physical dimensions of the battery. I imagine 60 is 6.0mm, 20 is 20mm and 30 is 30mm with the difference...

    Just an information on batteries of this type: the number 602030 and 902030 means the physical dimensions of the battery.

    I imagine 60 is 6.0mm, 20 is 20mm and 30 is 30mm with the difference between the two here being the height of 6.0mm. v. 9.0mm.

    If you are ever in a need of this kind of battery and thinking about getting different capacity, the knwledge of dimensions being right in the name might come in handy.

    EDIT: About the Pulsar software - there can be three outcomes:

    • it measures the voltage and kinda guesses the percentage (percentage by voltage is not precise); if this is the case, it will work as usual
    • it measures the state of charge aka how much charge was put to the battery and how much was drained from it and calculates percentage based on this; this would take into account the new calacity and will get you more precise ETA; Steam Deck does this, for example; I consider this to be the best way to measure capacity, but from time to time you have to deplete the battery completely to reset the state to true zero
    • the capacity is hardwired at 300mAh; this could mean your battery might not fully charge to 550mAh (but being reported as if it was) and will discharge just those 300mAh; this seems highly unlikely as it is kinda complicated and has not advantage (ie. cheaper making process)

    If I had to guess, number one it would be - it will last longer and report battery state as you were used to.

    EDIT2: I completely forgot - good job! It's great when people make use of their things even past the expected lifetime and fix them by themselves!

    1 vote
  2. Nihilego
    Link
    This might be handy in the future, no issues with mine so far(X2A, I imagine most of them will be made similarly) but I imagine the battery would die first, barring other hardware failure.

    This might be handy in the future, no issues with mine so far(X2A, I imagine most of them will be made similarly) but I imagine the battery would die first, barring other hardware failure.