13 votes

Bambu Lab P1P 3D printer

I don't intend this to be a sales pitch or anything, I just wanted to share my impression of the Bambu Labs P1P 3D printer in case anyone on here was curious and maybe considering buying one themselves.

I have owned a few Prusa FDM printers over the years but recently tried the Bambu Labs P1P after seeing tons of rave reviews, especially in terms of how fast it prints. Anyone that has done any 3d prints knows that print time is among the least enjoyable aspects of the hobby: lots of waiting.

Right out the gate, the P1P is a solid device with impressive construction given its relatively low price tag (I got it for $600 USD). And this thing easily rivals high performance machines in it's same "category", like the Prusa mk 3 and 4. And those are typically more expensive; the P1P comes 99.5% assembled at that price but a Prusa machine fully assembled is around 60% more expensive.

Most of the "assembly" is just removing packaging, like zip ties, that kept the unit safe and secure during transit. Then you connect the power cable, screen, spool holder, and filament tube. And that's it. The whole thing took maybe 10 minutes.

Getting the WiFi to connect is impossible for me at the moment, but I don't mind copying sliced gcode to the included microsd for printing. Sure, sending the gcode over WiFi would be super cool, but my Prusa doesn't do that so it's not like I've lost something. I'm hoping to eventually figure it out but that's not a deal breaker for me. I'm guessing I just need to temporarily move the printer next to the WiFi router but I haven't made time for it because I'm enjoying just printing off the card.

With the included 0.4mm nozzle (a standard size), it prints typically 2 to 3 times faster. Something that takes 23 hours might take 11. Something that takes 3 hours might take 1. For larger and more complex prints, you can get stuff done so much faster. For smaller and simpler prints, you no longer need to plan batches either first thing in the morning or overnight, you can just start them whenever. Whatever you printed before, you can print 2 to 3 times as many in one go in the same amount of time.

I don't have the AMS system but hope to get that at some point. If it has the same high quality build and performance as the P1P then I'm certain it will bring me simple multi-filament printing. And although I'm not nearly rich enough to afford more than 1 AMS, you can technically connect up to to 4 at once. Each unit holds up to 4 filament spools, so 4x4 means you could theoretically use 16 different filaments in a single print. The colors you could have! But each unit is like $350. Ouch.

I only have 2 real gripes with it so far. First, it purges way too much filament at the start of a print. I get why it does that, it absolutely ensures that your filament is always properly primed to assist in printing that critical first layer correctly, but it feels very wasteful to have a seemingly-excessive amount of filament thrown away with each print.

Second gripe is that the default spool holder is awful to access. You are likely to put the back of the machine facing a wall and that's where the spool holder will end up facing: the wall. You need to ensure the printer is a little more than two spool's width away from the wall - at the very least - so you can slide your spools on and off. Thankfully the bed doesn't move back and forth like with traditional fdm printers, thanks to the corexy technology, so you can more easily plan out where to put it and how much space it will need.

I haven't messed around with them yet but I just got additional hotends for it that I will be testing soon. The pack I got contains 0.2mm for prints that require very fine detail, 0.6mm for prints where detail is slightly less important than speed, and 0.8mm for when you want to go fast and don't care how much detail you get. Because they use a proprietary construction of hotend, you must use theirs, but the upside is that it's fairly fast and simple to switch them out. Most hotends, you just replace the tip, the actual nozzle. But because filament can gunk up the threads, you need to run it hot to unscrew the nozzle, which is very dangerous. With the P1P, you just pull off the magnetic faceplate, undo a few screws, swap the hotend, put the screws back, and pop the faceplate back on. In just a few minutes, you're done. And no need to turn on the hotend either; just unload your filament prior, let it cool down, and swap away. A much safer and more pleasant experience.

Overall, I'm in love with 3d printing all over again. It's the same feeling I got all those years ago when I did my very first 3d print. And sure, the Prusa is still great when you want high quality detailed prints. Going slow and steady wins that particular race still. But I get quality that is 90+% comparable to what the prusa gives me in exchange for literally 2x to 3x print speeds. That's an easy trade for me. And the slicer software estimates that some of my larger and less detailed prints could print in right 2/3 the time using the 0.6mm nozzle instead of the default 0.4mm. That translates to roughly 7 hours on my Prusa (0.4), 3.5 hours in my P1P (0.4), and 2 hours on my P1P (0.6). Given how much easier it is to swap out nozzles on the P1P, I can see myself actually doing that not frequently for certain prints that, like in my example, see substantial benefit.

I'm very excited to see how this machine holds up in the long run!

11 comments

  1. [4]
    skybrian
    Link
    What kinds of things do you print? Functional? Artistic?

    What kinds of things do you print? Functional? Artistic?

    2 votes
    1. [3]
      the_eon
      Link Parent
      Fun, functional, and artistic! My wife and toddler love fidget toys and really any cool print-in-place toys with movable parts, so lots of that. My kid usually likes to give some away to friends...

      Fun, functional, and artistic! My wife and toddler love fidget toys and really any cool print-in-place toys with movable parts, so lots of that. My kid usually likes to give some away to friends so we have to keep plenty in stock, which is much easier to do with the P1P haha.

      We have also printed functional things like modular boxes for pullout drawers that we organize our tools with (sorting screws, washers, nails, bits, etc). I'm actually going to be using the 0.6mm nozzle to print a 230x230mm single shelf hanging display case to put some of my computer Lego builds on/in; even with the speed improvements that will probably take about 3 days to print all the parts. Better than a week though!

      And in the category of what I'd call "practical", I actually lost a small piece to an outdoor security camera I've got, specifically a piece of the mounting hardware, and a replacement was going to cost me like $10 with shipping and take 5 days to get to be. I threw up a small design in fusion360, popped out into my slicer, and about 1 hour later I had a suitable replacement part. And the amount of filament used was less than $1.

      We've also done things like flower pot holders, sculptures, pendants, etc. One of my favorites is the "death trooper" head haha. We print whatever catches our fancy.

      1 vote
      1. [2]
        skybrian
        Link Parent
        That’s pretty cool. I’ve never printed anything that takes longer than overnight and usually it’s a lot less. I try to design for print speed. For organizers, I wonder if it would make sense to 3D...

        That’s pretty cool.

        I’ve never printed anything that takes longer than overnight and usually it’s a lot less. I try to design for print speed. For organizers, I wonder if it would make sense to 3D print the corners and cut panels out of cardboard, or something like that?

        1. the_eon
          Link Parent
          There's actually another project I haven't started yet, but it has you cut plywood for the sides and such (it's a portable toolbox) but you print the hinges, locking mechanics, etc and then screw...

          There's actually another project I haven't started yet, but it has you cut plywood for the sides and such (it's a portable toolbox) but you print the hinges, locking mechanics, etc and then screw everything together at the end. Even the display case I'm printing actually has an option to use ply for the backing and acrylic for the sides and front, and then you just print the "frame". The shelf can be any material that's light enough to be secured properly to the backing.

          On large functional prints, it definitely makes sense to do what you're suggesting.

          1 vote
  2. sal-mon
    Link
    Honestly, the only reason I'm sticking with Prusa at this point is their open-source aspect, import/export of electronics is a mess where I live so Bambu's are a risk for me personally.

    Honestly, the only reason I'm sticking with Prusa at this point is their open-source aspect, import/export of electronics is a mess where I live so Bambu's are a risk for me personally.

    2 votes
  3. [2]
    PuddleOfKittens
    Link
    IIRC Bambulab doesn't support Linux, so that's a hard no from me. I hope that Prusa gets their act together, it's amazing that they have open hardware but they sell Prusa XLs at $2k (might be AUD)...

    IIRC Bambulab doesn't support Linux, so that's a hard no from me. I hope that Prusa gets their act together, it's amazing that they have open hardware but they sell Prusa XLs at $2k (might be AUD) and don't even ship it with an enclosure.

    1 vote
    1. the_eon
      Link Parent
      Prusa is definitely starting to feel a bit expensive, at least in my mind. Great quality on everything but you basically need multiple machines to get things done in a timely manner. And at their...

      Prusa is definitely starting to feel a bit expensive, at least in my mind. Great quality on everything but you basically need multiple machines to get things done in a timely manner. And at their prices, I can't do that.

      As for the slicer, any will work as long as it exports to gcode. You can't use the official one right now since yeah it's not supported on Linux, but thankfully the printer still runs with any valid gcode.

      1 vote
  4. [3]
    Minithra
    Link
    I got my Snapmaker Original from someone who upgraded to a Bambu - Either he got a ton of addons or it was a bigger model, because he paid ~$2000 for it all. He's unsatisfied, lol. While it has...

    I got my Snapmaker Original from someone who upgraded to a Bambu - Either he got a ton of addons or it was a bigger model, because he paid ~$2000 for it all.

    He's unsatisfied, lol. While it has some early issues that are typical - getting the temps right, getting it working etc... everything just works.

    And there's no room to fiddle, no room to really optimize, because proprietary stuff. The Snapmaker I got from him was improved and changed, and I continued that, by modding it to use an all-metal tube and a better heat block and improved heatsink cooling... not much of that is needed, or even possible in a Bambu machine.

    That's probably good news if you're a fan of stuff just working, especially if the 3D printing is part of your daily work. And I definitely got frustrated at times with needing to level the bed or run a calibration before printing.

    Edit: Overall, the biggest draw to me as a hobby user is just how changeable and upgradable and just how much room to fiddle there is. New motors? New belts? New firmware? Better everything? It's all possible, because everything is so open. So I dislike closed and proprietary hardware, especially when you don't have the guarantee that you'll be able to get parts in 5+ years because they might decide to "upgrade" to another proprietary model and drop support for older stuff.

    1. [2]
      the_eon
      Link Parent
      I do agree with the appeal of customization. I love that I was able to go from a Prusa mk 2 to the significantly improved "mk 2.5 s" just by printing the parts and buying like a new pinda probe...

      I do agree with the appeal of customization. I love that I was able to go from a Prusa mk 2 to the significantly improved "mk 2.5 s" just by printing the parts and buying like a new pinda probe and maybe one or two other small components. That was fun, but also a long time ago for me.

      As someone that has a snapmaker 2.0 and who backed their Kickstarter, I would say their ecosystem is rather closed compared to something like an ender or a Prusa. They might be "open" in terms of releasing their software and their hardware schematics, but a lot of it is still proprietary. And while it is fun to play with, I had to put my snapmaker in storage for now because it just wasn't good enough to beat the prusa I have now and I wasn't using the laser out the cnc functions often enough. In part because it's an extremely lengthy and tedious process to prepare the different functions, especially if you have an enclosure.

      But again, valid point, I request that some love the tinkering of the printer itself as part of the hobby, or maybe even as the primary aspect of the hobby. While I do love tinkering in general, I've also got a full time job and a toddler and chores and so little free time these days. For me, just personally, I more prioritize the creation aspect more than the tinkering aspect. I want it to work relatively quickly, I want it to be consistent and reliable, and, as the years go on, I want it to be faster because I ain't got time to be constantly waiting on things.

      Again, just the fact that I can print something fun in an hour instead of three, that really opens up the door to doing more with my machine. I could spend that time tinkering and waiting, but at this point in my life I'd rather just have results haha.

      1. Minithra
        Link Parent
        Oh definitely, basically all the mods I did to the Snapmaker were with parts from other machines, because they don't sell Original parts anymore - the all-metal tube I had to file down so it would...

        Oh definitely, basically all the mods I did to the Snapmaker were with parts from other machines, because they don't sell Original parts anymore - the all-metal tube I had to file down so it would fit, for example.

        It was my first machine, and I'm definitely going to get something a lot more open for my next machine in the future!

        1 vote
  5. TheDarkerZone
    Link
    I've just received my X1C and im excited that the P1P is the base version and all i've heard about it is that it just works - As an engineer in a 3D printing company, who works with industrial...

    I've just received my X1C and im excited that the P1P is the base version and all i've heard about it is that it just works - As an engineer in a 3D printing company, who works with industrial printers daily, nothing appeals to me more than a printer that just WORKS. Thanks for sharing your feedback - might add a P1P to the workshop soon.