Baker's percentages and recipe spreadsheets
Are you comfortable following most bread baking recipes? Looking to start making your own recipes, and understand what ingredients do at what levels? If yes, this is what I'm going to try and explain the basics of, and point you in the right direction. If no, still feel free to read and ask me to explain anything I did a poor/insufficient job of.
Baker's Percentages
A baker's percentage is calculated by dividing the weight of the ingredient by the total weight of flour, times 100. You might hear it referred to as baker's math, or as a symbol with b%.
For example, if I had 100 grams of flour and 60 grams of water, that would be:
60/100*100 = 60% water, or in bread recipes that's referred to as the hydration. You might have seen on YouTube things like "90% high hydration sourdough!!".
It's important to note that if I had 90 grams of bread flour and 10 grams of whole wheat, that would be 100 total.
Why is this important? Whilst it's not an exact thing, for most breads you can tell a lot by seeing what the baker's percentage of the recipe is. It's also a great way to share those recipes, it's a ratio, so it's easy to scale up or down a batch. I share recipes like this, and it might look as simple as something like:
Flour - 100%
Hydration - 50%
Salt - 2.50%
Lard - 20%
(The flour tortilla recipe I use)
In my experience, I would say that most breads fall in:
50-70% hydration
1.5-3% salt
~3% oil/fats is the optimum for loaf volume without it being very enriched (added fats and sugars), although it's also common for rustic loaves to be lean (no added fats/sugars)
There's not much I can do in terms of the typical range for other ingredients, apart from recommending resources that help to explain what these ingredients do, and give examples using bakers percentages. Michael Suas' "Advanced bread and pastry" explains what all the commonly used ingredients for each section are used for, and gives lots of recipes for different items in both weights and baker's percentages.
Bakerpedia is a great resource for seeing the typical ranges used for various products, as well as offering example recipes in some cases. It's much more geared towards industrial/commercial baking, including the use of functional ingredients (additives), but I find that kind of stuff interesting too.
If you have a lot of money to spend, Modernist Bread by Francisco Migoya and Nathan Myhrvold is definitely interesting, informative, and the photography/graphics are as helpful as they are beautiful.
The main way I learnt is to convert recipes I liked/used into baker's percentages, and start to change them. You can find various ones online, but one thing that really helped me was creating a spreadsheet calculator.
I'm going to walk through how I first made my calculator, and hopefully that will show how all the maths actually works.
This is the recipe for a lean dough, so I keep the name in the top left. The "weight per" is how much I want each loaf or roll to weigh. I can change the number of them, and it'll change the total weight in the recipe to match that. I input the bakers percentages under "percentage" and the formulae display the total percentage of the recipe, and the weights of each ingredient. I like to centre align calculated cells, and right align cells that I have to change.
So how does this actually calculate the weights? You can see that the "Total" for percentages sum up all the percentages in the recipe, and for weight is multiplies the weight per by the number of. Why? Like I mentioned above, baker's percentages are like a ratio. If I know I want 100 grams of dough, and I want to figure out how much flour I need, I need to figure out how many grams each percentage is worth and multiply it by the percent of that ingredient.
100 / 168.40 = 0.5938 grams
0.5938 * 100 = 59.38 grams
You can see me doing this in one step for each weight, where I divide the total weight by the total percentage and multiply by the column to the left - the percentage for each ingredient.
You can make one of these for all of your recipes, and then you can change the weights or batch size very easily by just changing a number or two. As you start to experiment, you can keep a "main" template with lots of blank spaces to write what ingredients you want.
This is my own personal calculator, where I've added things like pre-ferment calculators, double hydration, offsets for water loss with evaporation, something that calculates the amount of vital wheat gluten depending on what protein I want, and checks/balances for seeing if all my flours add up to 100. I also have a vlookup table underneath that tells me the nutritional information for the ingredients I'm using. I also use cell colouring as a validation tool. You can see a screenshot of it here
I don't want to share this with the idea of you using mine, there are many things I'd change about it if I decided to start over, but hopefully it shows you the flexibility and customisability of making your own calculator.
One thing that this can't do is tell you how long to knead, how long to proof, how long to cook, what temps, et c. The only thing I can recommend for that is continuing to read and do other written recipes, until you get the intuition - although I still look up recipes similar to what I've written to double check things like cooking time!
In terms of how long to bulk/final proof, generally you'll get a feel for things like judging volume (if i'm not doing an open crumb bread, I like to proof in a large 2L jug to measure change in volume). For final proof I like to use the poke test, although you'd expect a poke test on baguette dough to spring back much more than you would on challah. You want more oven spring with baguette than challah, so understanding what the tests mean and reading through resources that explain those things are very useful.
I hope this has made sense, I'm not very experienced with long-form writing and trying to teach a topic like this, but I'm trying to lean into the tildes mindset.
Former pastry cook here, and this is an excellent post that reflects more of the in-depth knowledge sharing I'm delighted to see here.
I wish Tildes offered a pinning feature (we really don't have granular enough communities), because this is a canonical post of interest to anyone who bakes regularly or in quantity. However, I'm tagging it as ".wiki", and will be submitting a topic to suggest a .wiki suffix for deeply informative, expert posts.
Thank you! I was going to get more into percentages for different ingredients, and I still might edit or make a new post about common ingredients and some of the effects they have on bread and why. The more of a tangent I went on, though, the more convoluted it got.
I might also at some point make a post about some of the other features I've added to my calculator, with how/why I use them. I appreciate the feedback/compliments!
Just wanted to say I would be interested to read that or anything else you might want to share. Especially if you had any thoughts on how to work with different types of grain.
Just wanted to say thank you for this post. Although I'm vaguely aware of ratios for pastry and if I'd thought about it, I would have assumed there was something similar for bread, this goes way beyond any knowledge I had before. To be honest my bread making, such as it is, is basically guesstimation atm - if I'm making flatbreads, I'll just chuck some flour in a bowl, add a pinch of salt and a glug of oil and mix in water until I get a good consistency. Anyway, I've bookmarked your post and I'll definitley come back to it when I next bake a proper loaf of bread.
You might appreciate the book "ratio" by Michael Ruhlman. It's a book of general ratios that you can follow for different things, baking included but also just general cooking. You can buy copies second hand for dirt cheap, and it gives you a set of guidelines to follow if you're looking for something a little more "going by feel" than going to the exact gram.
I like the consistency of weighing things each time, although even then you have differences between wheat harvests, humidity, temperature, et c.
Thanks for the recommendation, it looks really interesting. I'll definitely try and get my hands on a copy.
I also endorse this book!
Awesome post! Your drive is some seriously impressive stuff. I was astounded when I started working at the bakery I'm at now that they didn't have a real, variable, functional document for their recipe calculations. Being the only tech literate person there but also awful at math, it was definitely a journey.
Have you tried eggless Challa? It's much lighter as a whole, but the lack of eggs makes it far less cakey. Only problem is you might not notice eating an entire loaf...
I've sadly never worked in a bakery, although I always keep my eye out for local postings.
I've never tried eggless challah before, although a sweetened oil enriched dough sounds pretty good! I'll have to try it out some time.