17 votes

Homemade Brazilian foods you may not know

With my sister arriving from another continent along with my nephew/godson and brother-in-law, and my mother also coming from abroad to stay with us, I had the first reunion from this side of the family in more than 2 years. It was awesome for obvious reasons, and one of them was the fact that women in my family usually love food and cook very well. I'm not a bad cook myself, but they're tough competition.

So I had the idea to take a few pictures and share them with Tildes, along with some commentary.

Theses dishes are typical of our region of Bahia, Brazil. They may have versions in other states, usually with significant differences.

All foods are savory.

With one exception, all photos were taken in my kitchen.

1. Shrimp Stew

Just shrimp with some spices and farofa de mandioca[1]. The quality and freshness of the shrimp are one of the most important factors, and living in front of the ocean certainly helps.

Images:

2. Lambreta

A kind of clam that's only available in Bahia (or at least mainly appreciated here). Like many things from our coast, it's naturally tasty and doesn't require much preparation. Salt, onions, tomatoes and lemon juice are more than enough. They're quick to cook — lambretas are ready when they naturally open.

Image: Lambretas on the plate (source).

3. Mangrove Crab

Our crabs are very different from what most people are used to eat elsewhere. They do not come from the sea, but from manguezais[2] (mangrove vegetation), an ecosystem that grows in brackish water (salt-water and fresh-water mixed together).

These crabs are smaller and carry less meat, but are way more succulent, with a unique taste that is hard to explain and easy to love. We use a variety of ingredients and spices to enhance their flavor, but it's overall a simple preparation, mainly consisting of water, salt, onions, and cilantro.

Many people, including my mother, used to cook them alive for a better taste. I convinced her to stop doing that and they're still delicious.

Image: crabs cooking in the pot.

4. Abará

This one is neither simple nor easy.

First there's a dough made of mashed black-eyed peas. When fried on palm oil, it becomes the acarajé. When you add palm oil to the dough and cook it in banana tree leaves, it is called abará. They're both highly sought treats across the country, and I happen to live in the most African city of Brazil, which has the best acarajés and abarás in the country :). It's really hard to digest, though, and it's not rare for tourists to feel sick after the first time they eat those. But they always come back for more! Acarajé and abará are actually "comida de santo" ("holy foods"), meaning they have ceremonial significance in the African-Brazilian religion called Canbomblé.

It's usually eaten with vatapá, an Afro-Brazilian dish made from bread (my mother uses black-eyed-beans for that), shrimp, coconut milk, finely ground peanuts and palm oil mashed into a creamy paste.

Abará is a popular street food in our region of Brazil, sold mostly by women from humble origins. Along with acarajé, it's a point of contention with neo-charismatic "baianas de acarajé" who sell the same product using the name calling them "Jesus cakes". They do so because, for them, religions of African origin are literally "the Devil".

Ingredients

Image: the ingredients together (minus the black-eyed peas).

Preparation

The vatapá must be constantly stirred. It is quite thick, so that's a labor-intensive job. Everyone must help.

Image: stirring the vatapá.

Images of the end result:

Footnotes

[1] A gift from our Native heritage, it's the toasted version of "farinha de mandioca", a kind of rough flour that enhances the flavor and texture of the dish.

[2] The equivalent page on Wikipedia only address the mangrove trees, and doesn't really convey that manguezais are unique ecosystems in which includes those trees.

12 comments

  1. [2]
    monarda
    Link
    All of that looks so incredibly delicious. I lived in Paraguay for a few years and a good friend of ours was from Brazil. We had a small group of expats (her, an Argentinean couple, and a...

    All of that looks so incredibly delicious. I lived in Paraguay for a few years and a good friend of ours was from Brazil. We had a small group of expats (her, an Argentinean couple, and a Peruvian) who would get together once a week and cook dishes from our home countries. I remember her acarajés! Since I never had any other acarajés other than hers, to me hers were the best! I miss her SO much and your post brought back memories of our groups time together.

    4 votes
    1. mrbig
      (edited )
      Link Parent
      I'm happy I brought you good memories! Homemade acarajés are frequently the best ones, I bet your friend is a great cook — bad cooks rarely risk making something as complex and labor-intensive as...

      I'm happy I brought you good memories!

      Homemade acarajés are frequently the best ones, I bet your friend is a great cook — bad cooks rarely risk making something as complex and labor-intensive as acarajé.

      If you're feeling adventurous, and if your location has a sizeable population of African immigrants, there's a great chance that you would find all the required ingredients to make acarajé.

      My sister lives in Europe, and she finds everything there because of the African community.

      1 vote
  2. [10]
    cfabbro
    (edited )
    Link
    This all looks and sounds incredibly tasty (esp. the crabs and abará), and you clearly put a lot of effort into making it all and documenting this for us, so thanks for that! The only dish I am...

    This all looks and sounds incredibly tasty (esp. the crabs and abará), and you clearly put a lot of effort into making it all and documenting this for us, so thanks for that!

    The only dish I am kind of confused about is the farofa de mandioca... mostly because it's so far outside my own food experiences, so I have no frame of reference for it. What does it taste like? What about the texture? It looks bit like sawdust to me, so you have really piqued my curiosity with it. :P

    p.s. Since we can't yet exemplary topics, make a comment so I can exemplary it instead, @mrbig. ;)

    2 votes
    1. [9]
      mrbig
      Link Parent
      I forgot to say those dishes can be accompanied by a number of delicious local peppers of different varieties, strengths and preparations. And it’s almost impossible to convey what farofa feels...
      • Exemplary

      I forgot to say those dishes can be accompanied by a number of delicious local peppers of different varieties, strengths and preparations.

      And it’s almost impossible to convey what farofa feels like (“they should have sent a poet!”).

      2 votes
      1. [8]
        cfabbro
        Link Parent
        Dang, I guess I am just going to have to try it for myself some time! :)

        Dang, I guess I am just going to have to try it for myself some time! :)

        1 vote
        1. [6]
          mrbig
          (edited )
          Link Parent
          So farinha de mandioca is milled cassava. It's white, dry and awful by itself. If you put it in your mouth, it absorbs all the saliva and you cannot talk right. It doesn't have much taste. We use...
          • Exemplary

          So farinha de mandioca is milled cassava. It's white, dry and awful by itself. If you put it in your mouth, it absorbs all the saliva and you cannot talk right. It doesn't have much taste. We use raw farinha de mandioca on foods that contain liquids (most Brazilian foods do), salt and a lot of spices.

          Farofa de mandioca is farinha fried with something else, like butter, olive oil, water + salt, chopped salted meats, etc.

          The one in the picture was made with butter and olive oil. It tastes like those ingredients and is coarse, much more than wheat flour. Farinha/farofa enhances the flavor of other dishes, most famously feijoada.

          The thing about farofa/farinha is that they only work in conjunction with other foods, so it's hard to describe their unique flavor and texture. Try to imagine what would happen if you pounded a very dry potato into dust.

          But I'll say this: being a flour, you can apply as much as you want, exactly where you want. So it's an easy way to regulate the flavors of the dish on an individual basis.

          If you ever come to Brazil, please know that you'll only find good farinhas in the Northeastern region, or maybe in the North (Amazon). And the best are the ones from or sold in Bahia.

          2 votes
          1. [5]
            cfabbro
            Link Parent
            Huh... I still don't quite know what to make of that, and still can't wrap my head around it even with your description, since it really does sounds totally unlike anything I have ever eaten...

            Huh... I still don't quite know what to make of that, and still can't wrap my head around it even with your description, since it really does sounds totally unlike anything I have ever eaten before. So I am definitely going to have to give it a try sometime, because I am even more intrigued now than before! Thanks for taking the time to write that out for me.

            p.s. Prepare for another exemplary, as soon as it resets for me. ;)

            1 vote
            1. [4]
              mrbig
              Link Parent
              Farinha is Native-Brazilian food. They used to do all the work manually, without mills. The effort to take all the nutrients from everything nature provides is the root of many delicious...

              Farinha is Native-Brazilian food. They used to do all the work manually, without mills. The effort to take all the nutrients from everything nature provides is the root of many delicious inventions. They also gave us tapioca, which you probably know.

              1 vote
              1. [3]
                cfabbro
                Link Parent
                Makes sense. And yeah, I love me some tapioca pudding, so I am definitely familiar with that. :P

                Makes sense. And yeah, I love me some tapioca pudding, so I am definitely familiar with that. :P

                1 vote
                1. [2]
                  mrbig
                  Link Parent
                  Try mixing 3 tea-cups of tapioca with 1 liter of milk and some cinnamon[1]. Put it on the stove until the milk boils. Add sugar and wait for it to cool off. Congratulations, now you're drinking...

                  Try mixing 3 tea-cups of tapioca with 1 liter of milk and some cinnamon[1]. Put it on the stove until the milk boils. Add sugar and wait for it to cool off.

                  Congratulations, now you're drinking mingau de tapioca!

                  You're welcome :)

                  [1] Might need a few adjustments, but don't give up.

                  2 votes
                  1. cfabbro
                    Link Parent
                    That sounds absolutely delicious, so I am 100% picking up some tapioca next time I go grocery shopping to give that a try. Thanks once again!

                    That sounds absolutely delicious, so I am 100% picking up some tapioca next time I go grocery shopping to give that a try. Thanks once again!

                    1 vote
        2. mrbig
          Link Parent
          I’ll try my hand at culinary poetry when I get home hahaha

          I’ll try my hand at culinary poetry when I get home hahaha

          1 vote