Trigger warning, this article contains a number of descriptions of sexual violence. Outside did a great piece covering the absolute slough of sexual assaults and violence carried out by Charlie...
Trigger warning, this article contains a number of descriptions of sexual violence.
Outside did a great piece covering the absolute slough of sexual assaults and violence carried out by Charlie Barrett over the last 15 years. Charlie Barrett is/was a really big part of the California climbing scene, particularly in Bishop and Yosemite - arguably the two most prolific climbing areas in the state (sorry Joshua Tree). I own 3 of his books myself and saw him as a pretty central figure in our generation of climbers, particularly in the Sierra Nevada range. It is eye opening how much work we still need to do. I always considered the climbing community to be a more progressive and welcoming space, but we have miles of work to do if folks like this can be sheltered and protected. So glad to learn Safe Outside and the important work they are doing.
On the topic of being progressive, I recently read this article on inclusivity -- really the lack of it (and a historical system of exclusion) -- in the climbing community. As I'm not part of that...
On the topic of being progressive, I recently read this article on inclusivity -- really the lack of it (and a historical system of exclusion) -- in the climbing community. As I'm not part of that scene, but would be interested in trying it, I'm curious if other people have a similar perspective as the person featured in that article.
I'd encourage you to give it a go. Depending on where you are there are often identity based groups (LGBTQ+, POC, Women's) to join when you start out. Honestly, I'm a youngish white guy, so I can...
As I'm not part of that scene, but would be interested in trying it
I'd encourage you to give it a go. Depending on where you are there are often identity based groups (LGBTQ+, POC, Women's) to join when you start out.
I'm curious if other people have a similar perspective as the person featured in that article
Honestly, I'm a youngish white guy, so I can only speak to the experience of BIPOC friends so take this with a massive grain of salt. It tends to be gym specific but there can be a good deal of gatekeeping. Mostly it tends to come from "strong climbers" (read someone who has climbed above V5 and now has an inflated sense of self). The trend is so strong that it's kind of a meme in the climbing world. You can get the same folks, almost entirely dudes, who will overly give advice, peacock when they climb (like the "finish with a pull-up" folks) or be generally badgering.
Another time, a gym manager told her that she couldn’t complete a route because she wasn’t strong enough.
Stuff like that can be common from folks who have decided they are climbers and anyone not on their level isn't. It's bullshit.
All that said, it can also be a really welcoming community. I've worked as a route setter at 3 gyms and the attitude and behavior is really set by the culture of the area. In the Netherlands it was pretty much a "I like to climb and have fun." In the Bay Area it was a bit more judgemental, I think driven by folks who were trying to prove they were "outdoorsy types" or different than traditional tech people. The last gym I set at was in an area with a much smaller population and poor outdoor climbing in the surrounding area. Honestly it was probably the most welcoming gym of all as no one was all that great so there wasn't a "hierarchy" of sorts.
I'm not sure if the climbing community is better or worse than most other activity based groups (running, biking, etc) or if it tends to be politically a more progressive place and so we talk about it/highlight it more. My guess is it's trending with everything else.
This guy sounds literally insane. There's clearly also a culpable element to his behaviour, but he seems like a candidate for indefinite detention even after serving his sentence.
This guy sounds literally insane. There's clearly also a culpable element to his behaviour, but he seems like a candidate for indefinite detention even after serving his sentence.
When they got back to the cabin, Barrett began acting strangely. Holding his head in his hands, he bent over the kitchen counter and stood motionless. Hedlund thought that he was about to pass out; she asked if he wanted to sit. They’d never had a fight or even a serious argument, but she started to feel scared.
“When he stood up and looked at me, it was like he was a different person,” she says. “His eyes were glazed over and he started walking toward me, chanting gibberish.”
According to Hedlund, Barrett said over and over: “You are the prosecution and I am the defense.” He backed her into a corner. Then, so suddenly that she had no time to defend herself, he hit the side of her head with his fist, knocking her out. Barrett was six feet tall and weighed 165 pounds. Hedlund was five-two and 112.
Trigger warning, this article contains a number of descriptions of sexual violence.
Outside did a great piece covering the absolute slough of sexual assaults and violence carried out by Charlie Barrett over the last 15 years. Charlie Barrett is/was a really big part of the California climbing scene, particularly in Bishop and Yosemite - arguably the two most prolific climbing areas in the state (sorry Joshua Tree). I own 3 of his books myself and saw him as a pretty central figure in our generation of climbers, particularly in the Sierra Nevada range. It is eye opening how much work we still need to do. I always considered the climbing community to be a more progressive and welcoming space, but we have miles of work to do if folks like this can be sheltered and protected. So glad to learn Safe Outside and the important work they are doing.
On the topic of being progressive, I recently read this article on inclusivity -- really the lack of it (and a historical system of exclusion) -- in the climbing community. As I'm not part of that scene, but would be interested in trying it, I'm curious if other people have a similar perspective as the person featured in that article.
I'd encourage you to give it a go. Depending on where you are there are often identity based groups (LGBTQ+, POC, Women's) to join when you start out.
Honestly, I'm a youngish white guy, so I can only speak to the experience of BIPOC friends so take this with a massive grain of salt. It tends to be gym specific but there can be a good deal of gatekeeping. Mostly it tends to come from "strong climbers" (read someone who has climbed above V5 and now has an inflated sense of self). The trend is so strong that it's kind of a meme in the climbing world. You can get the same folks, almost entirely dudes, who will overly give advice, peacock when they climb (like the "finish with a pull-up" folks) or be generally badgering.
Stuff like that can be common from folks who have decided they are climbers and anyone not on their level isn't. It's bullshit.
All that said, it can also be a really welcoming community. I've worked as a route setter at 3 gyms and the attitude and behavior is really set by the culture of the area. In the Netherlands it was pretty much a "I like to climb and have fun." In the Bay Area it was a bit more judgemental, I think driven by folks who were trying to prove they were "outdoorsy types" or different than traditional tech people. The last gym I set at was in an area with a much smaller population and poor outdoor climbing in the surrounding area. Honestly it was probably the most welcoming gym of all as no one was all that great so there wasn't a "hierarchy" of sorts.
I'm not sure if the climbing community is better or worse than most other activity based groups (running, biking, etc) or if it tends to be politically a more progressive place and so we talk about it/highlight it more. My guess is it's trending with everything else.
This guy sounds literally insane. There's clearly also a culpable element to his behaviour, but he seems like a candidate for indefinite detention even after serving his sentence.
It does make you wonder if he has a kill count already, especially given some of his threats.