goose's recent activity
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Comment on I survived the certificate expiration of October 19th 2026 and all I got was to make a silly shitpost in ~tildes
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Comment on Help adding LED lighting to bookcases in ~life.home_improvement
goose (edited )Link ParentSeparate reply to ensure you see it: I plugged the data into a few wire calculators, and read up on piggybacking, and I'm glad I did. I would not recommend piggybacking. It would require larger...Separate reply to ensure you see it:
I plugged the data into a few wire calculators, and read up on piggybacking, and I'm glad I did.
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I would not recommend piggybacking. It would require larger gauge wire, and you. Can't piggyback on the strips themselves, which are under rated for the amperage the whole setup would draw. If you wanted to piggyback, you would need to use 12 gauge 6 conductor wire, and do wire taps to the strips.
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If you're going the junction box route, you should use 12 gauge wire for your positive feed from the controller to the junction box. You could use 22 gauge for the individual runs out to each shelf, but the way the math works out:
At max output, typical high-output strips draw around 6 watts per foot. Across 70 total feet (7 runs of 10 ft), that’s roughly 420 watts. Over 24VDC is about 17.5 amps. Because RGBCCW strips are common anode, all 17.5 amps flow through that single positive wire. On the return, that load is split across the five negative color channels (R, G, B, CW, WW), meaning each individual channel only sees around 2 to 4 amps at any given time.
That's why your main positive trunk wire needs to be heavy (12 gauge seems to be the safe minimum to avoid voltage drop and heat, according to the online calculators I used), while the individual shelf wires (including the positive wire) from the junction box can safely step down to 22 gauge wire since each 10 ft strip only pulls around 2.5 amps max.
So functionally: 12 gauge wires for both wires going from your power supply to your controller. 12 gauge red wire from your controller to the Wago nut in the junction box. 22 gauge wires for everything else. Hopefully that makes sense?
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Comment on Help adding LED lighting to bookcases in ~life.home_improvement
goose Link ParentA cursory search indicates that Zigbee doesn't have native support for Google Home; however, this one appears to. Any controller that is 24V DC, RGBCCT, and supports your cloud platform of choice...We use Google home assistant, can we hook up that controller to be able to say like "hey google, make bookshelf lights purple" etc? If not is there a similar alternative for which that would work? (if there's IFTTT-style integrations that works, i can write basic routines)
A cursory search indicates that Zigbee doesn't have native support for Google Home; however, this one appears to. Any controller that is 24V DC, RGBCCT, and supports your cloud platform of choice should work.
For matching the wires together, I'm assuming we should pick colors from that 6-wire bundle and ensure we're fully consistent, and then match colors within the lever nut. Is there a standard for this that we should follow? and once we've done that, how do we know which wire to put in which port of the controller? I also notice the controller has 8 output slots, but there are only 6 connectors on the strips. I do see there are some labels, but will it be extremely obvious which connects to which?
Matching colors is nice, but as long as you're using the same standards on either end, I don't know of any explicit standard for something like this. The controller you use will have instructions on how to attach RGBCCT LED's, but it should be pretty straightforward. In fact, the product description page for the linked product has a visual reference.
When you're talking about doing each shelf individually..we were thinking of doing each level individually. Does that seem fine to you? Or would you really recommend each shelf having its own strip?
However you want to do it! I'm just visualizing from afar, whatever you would be happy with is the way to go. Doing each level individually will definitely save you some runs, I just wasn't sure how much space you had between your shelves. You could save yourself even more runs by piggybacking, then you'd only have one wire going to your controller and you could skip the Wago nuts and project box. As mentioned, drawback is no failure redundancy. Also I'd be slightly hesitant to wonder how much running the entire project through one set of wires would cause those wires to heat up -- but it might be fine, I'd have to look more into recommended wire gauges for that voltage/current draw.
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Comment on I survived the certificate expiration of October 19th 2026 and all I got was to make a silly shitpost in ~tildes
goose Link ParentBut have you heard about our lord and savior Docker, or any of its many comparable siblings? Because you don't need host root access if you have container root access!and I'm hosting on a sketchy seedbox where I don't have root.
But have you heard about our lord and savior Docker, or any of its many comparable siblings? Because you don't need host root access if you have container root access!
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Comment on I survived the certificate expiration of October 19th 2026 and all I got was to make a silly shitpost in ~tildes
goose Link ParentGotta add failure notifications to your script! Mine uses Telegram because of how easy the bot interface is. Discord webhooks are equally as easy.Gotta add failure notifications to your script! Mine uses Telegram because of how easy the bot interface is. Discord webhooks are equally as easy.
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Comment on Help adding LED lighting to bookcases in ~life.home_improvement
goose Link ParentThanks, that's helpful. Based on what you're describing, here's some thoughts and my version of answers to your questions: Off the bat: 7 shelves at around 10 feet each roughts out to 70 feet of...Thanks, that's helpful. Based on what you're describing, here's some thoughts and my version of answers to your questions:
Off the bat: 7 shelves at around 10 feet each roughts out to 70 feet of LED strips. At that total length, you'll want to avoid lower voltage strips (e.g. 5V USB-powered strips). 5V strips pull too much DC amperage over long runs, and will have more significant voltage drop (they will dim significantly and change color towards the end). Higher voltage (24V) strips trade higher voltage for less amperage, which keeps your lights more evenly bright across all 7 shelves.
A good strip for this kind of setup would be something like this 24V strip. It’s an RGBCCT strip (5-in-1), meaning you get both RGB colors plus dedicated warm white and cool white colors. Most LED strips, including the one I linked, are "cuttable" -- you just need to make sure you're cutting right on the marked copper solder pads (see the "scissor" mark). This allows you to trim each run to the shelf width you need, to the nearest allowed cut mark. The downside of cutting is that you'll have to wire each segment back to your controller.
To connect them, you could solder, or you can use solderless board-to-wire connectors. I've used similar solderless connectors before, but found them to be difficult to use. Perhaps that's because I was using IP68 rated LED's with a gel like cover that was a pain to get through, but ultimately, I found soldering and heat shrinking to be much better. Given that you don't need waterproof and the product I linked does not have that gel like cover, YMMV. If you do use connectors like this, just be sure your connectors and wire gauges are all compatible.
Given your situation, I'd lean towards running individual wires from each shelf back down to a central point. I'd use 20 gauge six-conductor wire. Connect the wire to each shelf's run of LEDs (or use the clip connectors), heat shrink the ends, and terminate all 7 shelf runs inside a small project box at the bottom. Inside the box, you can use some WAGO 221 lever nuts to cleanly tie all the matching wires together (one block for positive, one for each color channel). If your bookshelves are wood, you could use small wire tacks to secure and hide the wires along the back frame.
If having the wires of all seven shelves running down the back is too daunting, you could piggyback/daisy-chain them shelf-to-shelf, but if one strip connection ever fails, it takes out every shelf downstream of it. Running them home to a central box prevents that.
To answer your specific questions:
What LED strips would you recommend? Longevity being probably the most important part
For the two projects I've used LED strips for, I used random/off-brand spools and both have held up fine with regular use over the last few years. The biggest key to longevity is heat dissipation. You'll likely be fine without a heat sink for your use case, but if you want, you can install them into aluminum channels with diffusers. The aluminum can work as a heat sink, and the diffusers blend away the individual dots of light, if they're noticable.
What controller/power supply should we use? Keep in mind neither of us is super experienced with this kind of thing so the less complicated the better
You'll need two separate pieces here: a controller and a 24V power supply.
For the controller, something like this is easy to use, as it has push-terminals built right into it. Keep in mind that Gledopto model runs on Zigbee (works with Hue, Zigbee Echos, or Home Assistant), so if you just want simple Wi-Fi/phone control without a hub, or a remote control, just search for other 24V RGBCCT controllers.
For the power supply, across 70 feet you'll want around 240W to 350W, a Mean Well LRS-350-24 (350W) would be the way to go. It will run cool and lasts practically forever, but you'll have to wire an AC appliance power cord into its screw terminals yourself. Very easy to do.
Anything else I should be asking that I'm not? Any advice in general?
While the idea of splicing and wiring might seem a little daunting at first, doing it with spools and lever nuts is really straightforward once you get going. Doing it this way saves you a ton of cost and avoids having an ugly mess of multiple wall plugs or bulky hubs trying to power each shelf individually. Just make sure whatever conduit channel you picked out has an inside width that fits your strip (standard RGB is 10mm wide; 5-in-1 RGBCCT strips are often 12mm wide).
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Comment on Help adding LED lighting to bookcases in ~life.home_improvement
goose LinkCould you share some photos of the book shel(f|ves), and if possible, a quick mock up of what you're envisioning? I did two projects similar to what you're describing over the last few years, but...Could you share some photos of the book shel(f|ves), and if possible, a quick mock up of what you're envisioning? I did two projects similar to what you're describing over the last few years, but I'm not sure how similar or if I can offer anything of value, just from the text of the post. I'm too visual of a person.
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Comment on Timasomo 2026: Week 2 Updates in ~creative.timasomo
goose LinkMinor progress from the last update, partly due to birthday weekend, partly due to the remnants of Hurricane Isaias blowing through and altering plans. I decided I wanted to make it look a little...Minor progress from the last update, partly due to birthday weekend, partly due to the remnants of Hurricane Isaias blowing through and altering plans.
I decided I wanted to make it look a little less like dimensional lumber. So I pulled out the plunge router, and 3/8" round-over bit. I rounded out the edges that won't be flush against the walls. My depth was just slightly off, so there's a tiny lip, but that'll be easy to sand out.
This week I'll plan to pull out the belt sander, and maybe the orbital sander, and work on cleaning up the boards before staining and sealing. For the weight of the boards, I'm split between putting them on the wall with 3" wood screws, or some 3" lag screws. If lag screws, I'll need to counter sink some holes for the heads, but I'd first need to find the studs I'm going to mount to so I can counter sink accurately.
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Comment on Project Reclaimer: Halo 3 multiplayer on PC in ~games
goose Link ParentYup. But thinking more on it, I could see some incredible potential for some of the arcade/custom game modes in Halo, on maps with a 64 or 128 player cap. That would be pretty fun.Yup. But thinking more on it, I could see some incredible potential for some of the arcade/custom game modes in Halo, on maps with a 64 or 128 player cap. That would be pretty fun.
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Comment on Project Reclaimer: Halo 3 multiplayer on PC in ~games
goose Link ParentI love Halo, and separately I love Battlefield, but I don't know how much I'd love 32 vs 32. I think the map size and the role delegation lends itself to the BF mechanics. While Halo maps could...I love Halo, and separately I love Battlefield, but I don't know how much I'd love 32 vs 32. I think the map size and the role delegation lends itself to the BF mechanics. While Halo maps could have their size increased, the lack of roles makes it feel less "purposeful". You don't have a medic to revive a downed squad mate, it's just "die and wait to respawn..somewhere".
I love Halo when I just want to run and gun. I love Battlefield when I want to actually have an objective.
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Comment on Donald Trump strikes deal with Vladimir Putin to get diesel in sharp reversal of US policy weeks before midterms in ~society
goose LinkOf all the article titles that should be coming from The Onion...Of all the article titles that should be coming from The Onion...
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Comment on Timasomo 2026: Week 1 Updates in ~creative.timasomo
goose LinkI started work today! The plan is to put a shelf here, for my kids legos. We're going for a floating shelf, and cheap-but-not-cheap-looking. To start, I have a a couple pieces of 2x6 lumber. I...I started work today! The plan is to put a shelf here, for my kids legos. We're going for a floating shelf, and cheap-but-not-cheap-looking.
To start, I have a a couple pieces of 2x6 lumber. I don't want the edge against the wall to have a kerf, so I ripped the edge with my table saw. Next up, we need them to be 36" wide, so I mitered it down.
The plan is to make a "shelf and mount" setup. To do that, I used my chalk line to mark the center of the board to drill out where I'm going to run dowels for the mount. A quick miter later, we have ten dowels, almost ready to go.
My next step is to drill out five equidistant 5/8" holes for the "mount" part of the board, done without too much trouble thanks to my drill press. The press wouldn't come down quite far enough, so I had to do some creative problem solving by lifting the platform while drilling. But it only took about 20 minutes, and I had all ten holes drilled out.
Following that, I switched back to the table saw to cut the mount from the shelf. The final steps for today were to sand down the dowels for the part that would extend into the shelves, just a hair, so they'd slide in and out more easily.
While a lathe would be a perfect tool to help with that, I don't have a lathe. So I built this bastardized jig for my impact driver, which I was able to use to easily sand down the dowels just a hair, so that they'd easily slide in and out of the 5/8" hole. I then glued in all the dowels.
The pieces are sitting in the garage drying. I'll probably shoot some small 1" screws through the mount/dowels too, to really secure them more than just glue. But that's for a future date. Next up will be to sand, then stain, then seal the shelves. We're heading into my birthday weekend, so that may or may not happen this weekend, we'll see!
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Comment on What single episode of a show would you recommend as a standalone? in ~tv
goose LinkWhile there are many, many great episodes of Brooklyn Nine-Nine, I'm going to have to go with season 5 episode 14, The Box. While it certainly benefits from knowing things like the history between...While there are many, many great episodes of Brooklyn Nine-Nine, I'm going to have to go with season 5 episode 14, The Box. While it certainly benefits from knowing things like the history between Peralta and Holt, you can watch the episode with absolutely no historical context and still thoroughly enjoy it for its quotable moments, humor, and the bottle style shoot that makes it easier to grasp without background knowledge.
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Comment on How has your career changed you? in ~life
goose Link ParentBitWarden is way ahead of you: https://bitwarden.com/help/emergency-access/so my wife can get into our Bitwarden vault if needed
BitWarden is way ahead of you: https://bitwarden.com/help/emergency-access/
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Comment on Help with setting up a PiHole - I would like to become worthless to tech companies! in ~tech
goose Link ParentAs a broad principle, yes, but you're describing what is typically thought of as a "double NAT" situation. A PiHole can act as a router, if that's the router you want to use. But for most...As a broad principle, yes, but you're describing what is typically thought of as a "double NAT" situation. A PiHole can act as a router, if that's the router you want to use. But for most individuals, they use their router of choice, and a PiHole as a client on their LAN acting as the DNS server.
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Comment on Blocking of unverified apps on Android starts in Brazil and other three countries in ~tech
goose Link ParentI totally get that. I don't think it's an invalid argument at all, if anything, I agree with the logic of it on the whole. I just don't feel the link is as strong as you do, that this will lead to...I totally get that. I don't think it's an invalid argument at all, if anything, I agree with the logic of it on the whole. I just don't feel the link is as strong as you do, that this will lead to an elimination of third party apps. Of course I could be wrong, and I'll regret my position today if I am. I just don't see it leading to that, currently.
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Comment on Help with setting up a PiHole - I would like to become worthless to tech companies! in ~tech
goose Link ParentI'm sure I'm not the first person to do this, but for anyone using a UDM Pro as your router, I wrote a script to do this.For example, Smart TVs usually hardcode their own DNS server, bypassing your filter, so you need some extra WiFi configuration to force them to use your server.
I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this, but for anyone using a UDM Pro as your router, I wrote a script to do this.
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Comment on Blocking of unverified apps on Android starts in Brazil and other three countries in ~tech
goose Link ParentWell, that's a question that requires data that none of us will probably ever have. My point is that I think the argument that "Google itself is the biggest source of spyware" is very subjective,...Well, that's a question that requires data that none of us will probably ever have.
My point is that I think the argument that "Google itself is the biggest source of spyware" is very subjective, and it because of that, it doesn't lend strength to the argument (at least to me). It is, of course, fine and good to have different opinions on the matter. I just don't think a Trump-esque style "and everybody knows it" point is giving the necessary credibility to change anyone's mind.
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Comment on Blocking of unverified apps on Android starts in Brazil and other three countries in ~tech
goose Link ParentI mean, depending on what metric you're quantifying with, I would argue China is a bigger source of spyware than Google...I mean, depending on what metric you're quantifying with, I would argue China is a bigger source of spyware than Google...
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Comment on Blocking of unverified apps on Android starts in Brazil and other three countries in ~tech
goose Link ParentI agree, I think it's a reasonably good idea, and reasonably good execution. Is there a better solution, and execution? Probably, but I can't think of one, without spending a significant amount of...I agree, I think it's a reasonably good idea, and reasonably good execution. Is there a better solution, and execution? Probably, but I can't think of one, without spending a significant amount of time musing over it.
I own some firearms, because I (used to) hunt, and also enjoyed shooting for sport. That includes an AR-style rifle I bought to hunt boar that were killing the chickens and baby goats on a farm that an old family friend lives on/runs. In same train of thought that if a national ban on AR style rifles were passed in the name of "gun safety", I'd be willing to give mine up for the greater good, I can accept this in the same way for the sake of "user safety".
The solution certainly isn't training our aging generation(s) to learn what pop ups are real and what aren't -- I've been trying to do that for 25+ years with my own parents, with little to no success. And while I'm happy to field my mom's phone calls and forwarded emails asking if something is real or not, I'm not 100% available at her times of need. Just last week she received a scam call from someone trying to obtain an SMS OTP from her that I stopped in real time, because I happened to stop by her house to pick my kids up.
I'm a pretty tech-capable person, I use a Pixel phone, and regularly use an unsigned app (Revanced). This is (or will be, once it hits the US market) a minor/one time inconvenience for me. I get the arguments about "stepping stones" and the concern about this eventually leading to no unsigned apps being installable without abd, but I don't see them as having a lot of weight currently. Of course none of us really know one way or the other, but I think that there would be warning signs before it ever got to that point, such as bootloaders no longer being unlocked. But that this point, it's not like we have any less functionality, there's just a one time wait period for unsigned apps. I think that other than active app developers, the people who might be affected by this the most are most likely the people who tend to prefer things like Graphene and F-Droid over stock Android and the Play Store anyway (and would therefore probably be unaffected).
Yeah I get that. Just add my pubkey and I'll use dirtyfrag to take care of it for you.