The Sony GDM-FW900 shown in the video is famous for its 16:10 aspect ratio, but it has a horizontal scanning rate of only 121khz and its refresh rate tops out at 160hz. Its aspect ratio is the...
The Sony GDM-FW900 shown in the video is famous for its 16:10 aspect ratio, but it has a horizontal scanning rate of only 121khz and its refresh rate tops out at 160hz. Its aspect ratio is the only real thing that sets it apart, it can only do 160hz up to about 720p. I certainly wouldn't call it "the best CRT monitor for gaming" unless you really hate 4:3.
The Iiyama Vision Master Pro 514 is objectively the best (specs-wise) CRT monitor ever manufactured. With a horizontal scanning rate of 142khz and a maximum refresh rate 200hz, it can handle both 2048x1536 @ 90hz and 800x600 @ 200hz (although it could theoretically push about 700 lines @ 200hz). The Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2070SB and its many rebadges come in 2nd place specs-wise, with a horizontal scanning rate of 140khz and a refresh rate limit of 160hz.
There's also the special case of the Nokia 445PRO. It officially only supports up to 180hz, but it actually has no vertical refresh rate limit. The monitor doesn't check if the vertical refresh rate in range, only the horizontal scanning rate. It's been pushed up to 384x288 @ real 340hz: http://i.imgur.com/1e8TiPH.jpg
I think you're a bit confused. CRT monitors work by shooting phosphers with an electron gun in a tube. There is no lamp in a CRT. CRTs get dim with use. The only way to restore brightness is to...
I think you're a bit confused. CRT monitors work by shooting phosphers with an electron gun in a tube. There is no lamp in a CRT.
CRTs get dim with use. The only way to restore brightness is to raise up the brightness setting or to replace the tube.
If the maximum brightness setting on the monitor isn't bright enough, you can always physically adjust the G2 voltage. I believe you'll pretty much always be able to increase brightness until it...
If the maximum brightness setting on the monitor isn't bright enough, you can always physically adjust the G2 voltage. I believe you'll pretty much always be able to increase brightness until it dies, it just makes it dim faster. The most common cause of CRT death isn't from the tube being used up, that takes a very long time, even at high brightness.
Yes, you can increase the voltage, but it's not something I would recommend to random people on the internet. It's something you have to do a good amount of research and generally know what it is...
Yes, you can increase the voltage, but it's not something I would recommend to random people on the internet. It's something you have to do a good amount of research and generally know what it is you are doing.
You might be thinking of DLP too. Those would start getting dimmer/darker and you'd have to replace the lamp: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Light_Processing#Light_source
LCD projectors also need lamps. Though I wonder how common they are today when so few people are using projectors. In an era where you can have LCD or OLED pannels turn entire walls into screens,...
LCD projectors also need lamps. Though I wonder how common they are today when so few people are using projectors.
In an era where you can have LCD or OLED pannels turn entire walls into screens, it feels so strange that we used to have rear-projection TV sets just so we could get a big picture! And they were absolutely terrible for the health of your eyes.
My first instinct was to say that Plasma screens don't need lamps either, since they are also tube-based, but plasma TVs were so weird and were so quickly phased out that I can't really rely on my...
My first instinct was to say that Plasma screens don't need lamps either, since they are also tube-based, but plasma TVs were so weird and were so quickly phased out that I can't really rely on my memory.
Anything like that on eBay is going to be a huge ripoff, 5-10x what it would cost elsewhere. Try looking on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace. You almost certainly won't find an FW900, but I...
Anything like that on eBay is going to be a huge ripoff, 5-10x what it would cost elsewhere. Try looking on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace. You almost certainly won't find an FW900, but I found a Mitsubishi 2070SB rebadge (20" viewable, 2048x1536 @ 85hz,) and ViewSonic G225f (20" viewable, 2048x1536 @ 80hz) for very cheap on both of those. Both can also do 1024x768 @ 160hz for high refresh rate gaming. $5 and $30 respectively.
About 10 years ago I had a CRT (I don't remember its make and model but it had a couple of parrots as its emblem) and I ran it at the wacky resolution of 1152x864 so that I could run it at 75Hz....
About 10 years ago I had a CRT (I don't remember its make and model but it had a couple of parrots as its emblem) and I ran it at the wacky resolution of 1152x864 so that I could run it at 75Hz. The slightly higher refresh rate was fantastic.
Ah, yes... I remember that resolution! I remember my monitor supported more than 1600x1200 , but stuff started looking out of whack any higher, so 1600x1200 was my go-to. But I'm pretty sure I ran...
Ah, yes... I remember that resolution! I remember my monitor supported more than 1600x1200 , but stuff started looking out of whack any higher, so 1600x1200 was my go-to. But I'm pretty sure I ran it at 1152x864 on occasion.
1024x768 was my preferred resolution. This was before scaling UIs were really common, and that was as small as I wanted the text to be on my 24" screen. It really pissed me off when the whole...
1024x768 was my preferred resolution. This was before scaling UIs were really common, and that was as small as I wanted the text to be on my 24" screen.
It really pissed me off when the whole world was switching to LCD panels that usually only went up to 800x600. Especially because they didn't have scalers and lower resolution modes would just show up in these tiny boxes.
That's one of the reasons I kept the Viewsonic for so long. Didn't make sense to switch when the picture quality was all-around worse. Albeit in a smaller package. I believe the Viewsonic I had...
That's one of the reasons I kept the Viewsonic for so long. Didn't make sense to switch when the picture quality was all-around worse. Albeit in a smaller package.
I believe the Viewsonic I had was the A90f+ , at least..looks the most familiar to me browsing through Google Images.
My CRTs had to go when I was forced to leave the house. I didn't get the chance to get a moving van and it was short notice, so I left it along with almost all of my retrocomputing hardware. Among...
My CRTs had to go when I was forced to leave the house. I didn't get the chance to get a moving van and it was short notice, so I left it along with almost all of my retrocomputing hardware. Among the lost includes a Tandy 1000 HX with original HDD, a late model beige Power Macintosh (can't recall the exact model, but it did have its own built-in TV capture card), a Magnavox Odyssey^2, and I think a TI-99/4A. At least I managed to keep the Amiga A3000 and most of the accessories for it.
The good thing was that this was 2008, and full HD flat panels were now fairly common and relatively inexpensive (though color reproduction was sorely lacking). And because digital connections were becoming the standard, the picture was a bit clearer than my old CRT was.
The Sony GDM-FW900 shown in the video is famous for its 16:10 aspect ratio, but it has a horizontal scanning rate of only 121khz and its refresh rate tops out at 160hz. Its aspect ratio is the only real thing that sets it apart, it can only do 160hz up to about 720p. I certainly wouldn't call it "the best CRT monitor for gaming" unless you really hate 4:3.
The Iiyama Vision Master Pro 514 is objectively the best (specs-wise) CRT monitor ever manufactured. With a horizontal scanning rate of 142khz and a maximum refresh rate 200hz, it can handle both 2048x1536 @ 90hz and 800x600 @ 200hz (although it could theoretically push about 700 lines @ 200hz). The Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2070SB and its many rebadges come in 2nd place specs-wise, with a horizontal scanning rate of 140khz and a refresh rate limit of 160hz.
There's also the special case of the Nokia 445PRO. It officially only supports up to 180hz, but it actually has no vertical refresh rate limit. The monitor doesn't check if the vertical refresh rate in range, only the horizontal scanning rate. It's been pushed up to 384x288 @ real 340hz: http://i.imgur.com/1e8TiPH.jpg
I gotta say: you're really living up to your username!
I've dug out my old CRT monitor but it seems so dim. Any way to brighten it up or is it just age? Nobody makes CRTs anymore, do they?
The lamp might need a replacement. You can see if there's a hardware shop around that can replace it for you?
I think you're a bit confused. CRT monitors work by shooting phosphers with an electron gun in a tube. There is no lamp in a CRT.
CRTs get dim with use. The only way to restore brightness is to raise up the brightness setting or to replace the tube.
If the maximum brightness setting on the monitor isn't bright enough, you can always physically adjust the G2 voltage. I believe you'll pretty much always be able to increase brightness until it dies, it just makes it dim faster. The most common cause of CRT death isn't from the tube being used up, that takes a very long time, even at high brightness.
Yes, you can increase the voltage, but it's not something I would recommend to random people on the internet. It's something you have to do a good amount of research and generally know what it is you are doing.
Oh hm, you know what, I was probably confusing them with plasma TVs. I guess my old display tech compartment is a bit messy.
You might be thinking of DLP too. Those would start getting dimmer/darker and you'd have to replace the lamp: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Light_Processing#Light_source
LCD projectors also need lamps. Though I wonder how common they are today when so few people are using projectors.
In an era where you can have LCD or OLED pannels turn entire walls into screens, it feels so strange that we used to have rear-projection TV sets just so we could get a big picture! And they were absolutely terrible for the health of your eyes.
My first instinct was to say that Plasma screens don't need lamps either, since they are also tube-based, but plasma TVs were so weird and were so quickly phased out that I can't really rely on my memory.
G2 voltage (brightness) can be manually adjusted by opening up the CRT, or in the case of Trinitron tubes, with WinDAS. What model is it?
Ah I'm off to college and don't have it right next to me anymore. Some random eMachines model.
Well this video has got me wanting to buy a Sony FW900 but of course it's $400 on eBay, damn
And then probably $400 shipping because it weighs 93 pounds!
Anything like that on eBay is going to be a huge ripoff, 5-10x what it would cost elsewhere. Try looking on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace. You almost certainly won't find an FW900, but I found a Mitsubishi 2070SB rebadge (20" viewable, 2048x1536 @ 85hz,) and ViewSonic G225f (20" viewable, 2048x1536 @ 80hz) for very cheap on both of those. Both can also do 1024x768 @ 160hz for high refresh rate gaming. $5 and $30 respectively.
For the longest time I had a 1600x1200 Viewsonic CRT. Yep, fantastic refresh rate and near infinite contrast. Looked good.
About 10 years ago I had a CRT (I don't remember its make and model but it had a couple of parrots as its emblem) and I ran it at the wacky resolution of 1152x864 so that I could run it at 75Hz. The slightly higher refresh rate was fantastic.
That would be ViewSonic.
75hz is just barely high enough for most people to stop perceiving flicker, gaming at 160hz is a sight to behold.
Ah, yes... I remember that resolution! I remember my monitor supported more than 1600x1200 , but stuff started looking out of whack any higher, so 1600x1200 was my go-to. But I'm pretty sure I ran it at 1152x864 on occasion.
1024x768 was my preferred resolution. This was before scaling UIs were really common, and that was as small as I wanted the text to be on my 24" screen.
It really pissed me off when the whole world was switching to LCD panels that usually only went up to 800x600. Especially because they didn't have scalers and lower resolution modes would just show up in these tiny boxes.
That's one of the reasons I kept the Viewsonic for so long. Didn't make sense to switch when the picture quality was all-around worse. Albeit in a smaller package.
I believe the Viewsonic I had was the A90f+ , at least..looks the most familiar to me browsing through Google Images.
My CRTs had to go when I was forced to leave the house. I didn't get the chance to get a moving van and it was short notice, so I left it along with almost all of my retrocomputing hardware. Among the lost includes a Tandy 1000 HX with original HDD, a late model beige Power Macintosh (can't recall the exact model, but it did have its own built-in TV capture card), a Magnavox Odyssey^2, and I think a TI-99/4A. At least I managed to keep the Amiga A3000 and most of the accessories for it.
The good thing was that this was 2008, and full HD flat panels were now fairly common and relatively inexpensive (though color reproduction was sorely lacking). And because digital connections were becoming the standard, the picture was a bit clearer than my old CRT was.