15 votes

Best method to get rid of mealybugs (and maybe scale too)?

I've got an indoor stephanotis which got an infestation of mealybugs (bad soil I think). I gave it a spray of Safer 5118-6 insecticidal soap (49.something% potassium salts of fatty acids) and have been going around (and around and around) the plant with an alcohol soaked pad to pick them off. It's a pretty thick mess of vines, and after several days of hunting I've found a lot, but of course it needs to be zero. It's had a problem with scale as well in the past, but this seems to be pretty minor right now. I've encountered just 2-3 leaves with that, and alcohol-wiped them too.

So my question is, is this insecticidal soap the most suitable thing to use (it does specify it targets mealybugs) or is there something better? I plan to give it a good saturation in a couple more days, really try to hit every spot.

10 comments

  1. [3]
    RoyalHenOil
    (edited )
    Link
    I normally pick off the biggest insects (which are more likely to survive other treatments) using pointy tweezers or an alcohol-soaked sponge. Then I go through and apply a treatment. Insecticidal...

    I normally pick off the biggest insects (which are more likely to survive other treatments) using pointy tweezers or an alcohol-soaked sponge. Then I go through and apply a treatment. Insecticidal soap should work fine here as well, so long as it's mixed at a rate to kill mealybugs/scale and your country has reasonable consumer protection laws (if it doesn't, you may want to seek out an insecticidal soap that is marketed to commercial enterprises; just be aware that this may involve buying a concentrate at high expense and mixing your own spray).

    If the infection is really bad, I prune off the most heavily infected sections of the plant. Then I remove the plant from its pot—including washing all potting medium off its roots, so the plant is completely naked. Then I basically give it a really through wash in the shower, hopefully knocking off any remaining large insects or loosely-held eggs, etc. Then I shake off the excess water, pop the roots in a container of water so they don't desiccate, and leave it until it's mostly dry. After that, I apply the treatment in the shower, with the plant still unpotted so that it's easier to thoroughly drench it from all directions. Once that has dried again, I repot it in a thoroughly clean pot with fresh potting medium. I also checked the area around where I was keeping the plant (mealybugs will scurry off and hide when you disturb the plant, and I have found them hiding in the tiniest indents in the windowsill and wall).

    In my experience, these methods will really set the insect population back, but they may not completely eradicate it. These treatments kill insects only through direct contact (it may also need to be prolonged contact), so there may be survivors in various air pockets or spots you missed. Eggs in particular can often survive treatment. As such, you may have to do a number of follow-up treatments. I believe in the horticultural industry, they will typically re-spray every 3-4 weeks for the rest of the season to account for newly hatching eggs.

    Even if you eradicate the population fully, you should keep an eye out with this particular plant hereafter, now that you know it's susceptible. These insects don't attack all plants; they only target plants that are too weak to defend themselves from pests. In a large grouping of plants, such as commercial greenhouses, it's common for only a tiny fraction of plants (with often BIG spaces between them) to get infected, while all the rest are completely insect-free. There are several reasons why a plant could be particularly vulnerable to insects: it might have bad genetics, it might have a disease that leaves it weaker, it might not be getting the care it requires for optimal health, or it may have diverted a lot of its energy to something other than self-defense (in my experience, plants that are about to bloom are particularly susceptible to pests).

    10 votes
    1. [2]
      dirthawker
      Link Parent
      Very thorough advice! Thank you I'm pretty sure I introduced them when I added some soil to the pot. When I discovered them I went in with a shop vac and vacuumed off the entire layer of soil I...

      Very thorough advice! Thank you

      I'm pretty sure I introduced them when I added some soil to the pot. When I discovered them I went in with a shop vac and vacuumed off the entire layer of soil I had added and replaced it with Foxfarm Frog. I also put in some diatomaceous earth. I also sprayed the pot itself with the insecticidal soap. It is a pretty big plant and I'm not looking forward to repotting it, though I know I'll need to do that within a few years.

      1. RoyalHenOil
        Link Parent
        One thing to be aware of with diatomaceous earth is that it doesn't work so well when wet, so you will just want to be a bit thoughtful about how you water the plant while the diatomaceous earth...

        One thing to be aware of with diatomaceous earth is that it doesn't work so well when wet, so you will just want to be a bit thoughtful about how you water the plant while the diatomaceous earth is applied. I would recommend bottom watering if that's feasible.

        1 vote
  2. [3]
    Not_Enough_Gravitas
    Link
    I was advised that neem oil works on mealy bugs.

    I was advised that neem oil works on mealy bugs.

    2 votes
    1. pageupdraws
      Link Parent
      What I love about neem oil is that it is not supposed to harm bees, butterflies or ladybugs.

      What I love about neem oil is that it is not supposed to harm bees, butterflies or ladybugs.

      1 vote
    2. dirthawker
      Link Parent
      I had actually given it a spray with neem but at the time I hadn't realized the extent of the problem, so I probably didn't spray enough of it.

      I had actually given it a spray with neem but at the time I hadn't realized the extent of the problem, so I probably didn't spray enough of it.

  3. [2]
    morganmarz
    Link
    In addition to what you have already done, there is also the option of a systemic pesticide, which kills the insects that are feeding on your plant. This is a scorched earth sort of strategy, but...

    In addition to what you have already done, there is also the option of a systemic pesticide, which kills the insects that are feeding on your plant. This is a scorched earth sort of strategy, but it is also extremely effective. I use Bonide systemic granules on my indoor plants.

    Do keep in mind that this should not be used on edible plants or outside plants.

    2 votes
    1. Forgotten_Path
      Link Parent
      This was my final solution for scale, and the only thing that got rid of it for my dwarf umbrella. Misting the plant with undiluted 70% isopropyl alcohol gave the plant some immediate relief, but...

      This was my final solution for scale, and the only thing that got rid of it for my dwarf umbrella.

      Misting the plant with undiluted 70% isopropyl alcohol gave the plant some immediate relief, but I'm not sure every plant can tolerate that.

      1 vote
  4. [2]
    fineboi
    Link
    You can check out food grade diatomaceous earth. Don’t forget to check underneath the plants leaves. https://www.tipsbulletin.com/how-to-use-diatomaceous-earth-for-mealybugs/

    You can check out food grade diatomaceous earth. Don’t forget to check underneath the plants leaves. https://www.tipsbulletin.com/how-to-use-diatomaceous-earth-for-mealybugs/

    1. dirthawker
      Link Parent
      I've put it on the soil, thanks! I would rather not put it on the plant itself as it's the same color as mealybugs.

      I've put it on the soil, thanks! I would rather not put it on the plant itself as it's the same color as mealybugs.