I don’t think I’ve seen any climbing content posted to tildes, and I want to change that. Do we have any other climbers here? This video is about screamers. In climbing, if you have a protection...
I don’t think I’ve seen any climbing content posted to tildes, and I want to change that. Do we have any other climbers here?
This video is about screamers. In climbing, if you have a protection piece that isn’t very strong, you install a screamer with it. In a fall, the screamer extends, so you fall farther, but put less force on the marginal protection.
I love talking climbing! I've never actually used a screamer but I've also always kept it "semi-rad" when it comes to trad. In my head there is no need to take big whips when you're on placed...
I love talking climbing! I've never actually used a screamer but I've also always kept it "semi-rad" when it comes to trad. In my head there is no need to take big whips when you're on placed gear. Sport climbing provides all the buttpucker I've ever needed on that front.
But man, tech like this always blows my mind. It's wild the safety innovations climbers can use, and honestly for some pretty reasonable prices (~$40). I always think about how far development has come and how much we benefit from the rescue industry/community. Like, it's wild to think of how effective that piece of equipment is and just how much it can diffuse the torque on those nuts. I was pretty nervous to see them demonstrate on the rocks, as even little rocks can do a lot of damage in the wild, but the end result was so impressive.
What got you stoked enough to have you share the video?
As for conversations in the future, I worked as a setter for many years but it ended up driving the early onset of a genetic disease - dupuytren's - that has gotten bad enough that I've stopped climbing this year. I think setting exacerbated it as many days I wouldn't warm up, I'd just dive into setting so I could get my quote up before the gym opened. It's possible that things will change, but the nodules in palm now click and grind so more than likely it's the end of the road for that part of my life. Buuuut, I'm always really excited to chat about it!
I’ve been climbing for a few years, and just bought the stuff for top rope solo, since my belay partner has been pretty busy recently. So I have been watching a ton of videos about climbing...
What got you stoked enough to have you share the video?
I’ve been climbing for a few years, and just bought the stuff for top rope solo, since my belay partner has been pretty busy recently. So I have been watching a ton of videos about climbing equipment recently. I chose this video because I wanted something that would be interesting to both experienced climbers and people who have never climbed before. I haven’t done trad climbing, but I don’t think they are very common even in trad. And I personally find them fascinating.
I’m sorry about your disease. It sounds painful. I hope you can find some treatment or something to get climbing again in the future.
That's awesome! How has the top rope soloing been going? I've only had to top rope selfbelay when setting or scrubbing routes and I assume it's similar? I just used to work my way up the route and...
That's awesome! How has the top rope soloing been going? I've only had to top rope selfbelay when setting or scrubbing routes and I assume it's similar? I just used to work my way up the route and pull the rope through a grigri. It worked really well to work myself and a bucket up the wall but never considered it for climbing. Thinking about it now that's a pretty good system for what you're after, that's awesome! How does your gym manage it? Like is it a thing they teach or test in house?
And thanks! It doesn't hurt, it just gets swollen and eventually will trigger. I've come to terms with it. I just shared for context that I'm not climbing any more but did pretty intensely for about 17 years.
My gym doesn’t want anything to do with top rope solo for patrons. They do the same thing you describe for route setting. I haven’t tested it, but I don’t think that technique would work for...
My gym doesn’t want anything to do with top rope solo for patrons. They do the same thing you describe for route setting. I haven’t tested it, but I don’t think that technique would work for outdoors, since the double carabiner top rope anchor has much less friction than a gym top rope anchor.
The standard top rope solo protocol seems to be tying a fixed line top rope and using some device that can slide upwards but not down. This way it auto feeds, so you don’t need to constantly pull rope through the belay device. My setup uses a Petzl micro traxion as primary and an edelrid spoc as backup, both on the same rope.
The biggest consideration is that the exact same part of the rope is touching the same part of the rock throughout the entire route. If you project a route with your rope running over a rock ledge, it will quickly wear through the rope, so you have to tie reanchors below ledges or have rope protectors. I’ve been working on sewing my own magnetic rope protectors. It’s been a fun project.
So far, I’ve only done one climb with this setup because I’ve been busy. I really want to get back out there, but my ropes are still drying from washing them. I got some of my family to climb a few routes last weekend at the beach. Unfortunately when I was setting up the top rope anchors, I threw my rope right into the water. But it was still a fun trip nonetheless.
That's really cool! What kind of rock are you running all this on? If I'm understand correctly, and if you're running this setup outdoors it would depend on if you have bolts low enough on the...
That's really cool! What kind of rock are you running all this on?
They do the same thing you describe for route setting. I haven’t tested it, but I don’t think that technique would work for outdoors, since the double carabiner top rope anchor has much less friction than a gym top rope anchor.
If I'm understand correctly, and if you're running this setup outdoors it would depend on if you have bolts low enough on the face (or at all) or a suitable spot to anchor from both the base and the summit of the climb. If all those needs are met - and like you call out, if there aren't any areas of heavy friction - it works fine. I've run it outdoors when bolting or servicing routes. Though again, like you call out, you'd need to take in rope as you go. I used to think of it like clipping on lead - pause, take, continue. Also, I really like the micro traxion. I used to use it on my buckets if I was running more than one at a time.
Sounds like you have a pretty good setup in mind! Keep us in the loop as you dial it in! As a total aside, if you're interested in doing this more and safely, you can always ask if you can volunteer time to clean routes at your gym. That's how I started working at the gym - straight volunteer time pulling holds - and I got a ton of info on different methods and safety tips for doing what you're talking about. I had already climbed for about a decade, but I learned a ton really quickly as they are all about optimization so you can pull as many routes as possible per week. About 4 months in they let me start setting too and that kicked off a 5 year love affair/career with it. It's different everywhere but it's always worth an ask, especially if you're already spending the time to figure it out.
I've posted a bunch of stuff from Magnus Mitbo and Wide Boyz over the years. It doesn't tend to get many votes or comments though, so I don't post their videos very often. I don't climb myself,...
I don’t think I’ve seen any climbing content posted to tildes
I've posted a bunch of stuff from Magnus Mitbo and Wide Boyz over the years. It doesn't tend to get many votes or comments though, so I don't post their videos very often.
Do we have any other climbers here?
I don't climb myself, but I do watch a lot of climbers on YouTube like the aforementioned two, Adam Ondra, Sofya Yokoyama, Eric Karlsson, Emil Abrahamsson, Josh Rundle, Catalyst Climbing, Bouldering Bobat, etc. But most of those channels are pretty specific in their focus, and I think people would have to be pretty into climbing/bouldering to enjoy them... so I haven't posted anything from any of the rest.
p.s. @rosco is the only user on here that I know of who actually climbs.
YVW! Similarly, I've enjoyed all our climbing related conversations over the years. :) p.s. Sorry to hear about your condition and not being able to climb anymore. :(
YVW! Similarly, I've enjoyed all our climbing related conversations over the years. :)
p.s. Sorry to hear about your condition and not being able to climb anymore. :(
Oh, hi! Yeah, I've been climbing indoors and outdoors (mostly top rope and sport lead) for about a decade. Looking forward to watching this video (even though trad scares the poop out of me, and...
Oh, hi! Yeah, I've been climbing indoors and outdoors (mostly top rope and sport lead) for about a decade. Looking forward to watching this video (even though trad scares the poop out of me, and I'm not sure I'll ever try it 😅)
I check in on my climbing progress in the fitness chat but dont usually post video content or anything. But neat to see others around. I mostly boulder and top rope
I check in on my climbing progress in the fitness chat but dont usually post video content or anything. But neat to see others around. I mostly boulder and top rope
I don't climb, but this is great content and I'm really interested in learning about things I had no idea I'd have interest in. Like watching Technology Connections on youtube. I had no idea I...
I don't climb, but this is great content and I'm really interested in learning about things I had no idea I'd have interest in. Like watching Technology Connections on youtube. I had no idea I could spend two hours learning about dishwasher efficiency, but you never know until you go down that rabbit hole.
Would love to see more stuff on climbing. Most of my life has been involved w that world, and it seems to be one of the most positive communities in general. All on one team, ready to help, and...
Would love to see more stuff on climbing. Most of my life has been involved w that world, and it seems to be one of the most positive communities in general. All on one team, ready to help, and happy to. Thanks for posting!
That was fascinating! Those folks look like a blast to hang out with haha. I hadn't heard of these devices — it took me a second to understand the purpose, but they're pretty cool. It seems like...
That was fascinating! Those folks look like a blast to hang out with haha. I hadn't heard of these devices — it took me a second to understand the purpose, but they're pretty cool. It seems like only the G Screamer actually managed to keep the load at around 4kN, though the other devices obviously still helped to some extent. It's definitely prompting me to think about how meaningful various factory test load numbers really are for aid devices.
Also, super interesting how much more load was placed on the rope by the rock than the bag of water! Obviously humans are able to absorb some amount of shock by both having compressible anatomy and by actually moving our bodies in response to force, but I wasn't expecting over a kN of difference!
Yeah, the G screamers seemed to be the winner, if there is a winner for this sort of test. I haven’t done any sort of trad climbing yet, but I do want to in the future. When I do, I’ll probably be...
Yeah, the G screamers seemed to be the winner, if there is a winner for this sort of test. I haven’t done any sort of trad climbing yet, but I do want to in the future. When I do, I’ll probably be buying the g screamers. Although I just looked it up, and they are nearly twice the price of the cheaper Yates screamers.
I don’t think I’ve seen any climbing content posted to tildes, and I want to change that. Do we have any other climbers here?
This video is about screamers. In climbing, if you have a protection piece that isn’t very strong, you install a screamer with it. In a fall, the screamer extends, so you fall farther, but put less force on the marginal protection.
I’ve been climbing for about a year! Almost entirely indoors, though. Such a fun hobby and way to exercise.
I love talking climbing! I've never actually used a screamer but I've also always kept it "semi-rad" when it comes to trad. In my head there is no need to take big whips when you're on placed gear. Sport climbing provides all the buttpucker I've ever needed on that front.
But man, tech like this always blows my mind. It's wild the safety innovations climbers can use, and honestly for some pretty reasonable prices (~$40). I always think about how far development has come and how much we benefit from the rescue industry/community. Like, it's wild to think of how effective that piece of equipment is and just how much it can diffuse the torque on those nuts. I was pretty nervous to see them demonstrate on the rocks, as even little rocks can do a lot of damage in the wild, but the end result was so impressive.
What got you stoked enough to have you share the video?
As for conversations in the future, I worked as a setter for many years but it ended up driving the early onset of a genetic disease - dupuytren's - that has gotten bad enough that I've stopped climbing this year. I think setting exacerbated it as many days I wouldn't warm up, I'd just dive into setting so I could get my quote up before the gym opened. It's possible that things will change, but the nodules in palm now click and grind so more than likely it's the end of the road for that part of my life. Buuuut, I'm always really excited to chat about it!
I’ve been climbing for a few years, and just bought the stuff for top rope solo, since my belay partner has been pretty busy recently. So I have been watching a ton of videos about climbing equipment recently. I chose this video because I wanted something that would be interesting to both experienced climbers and people who have never climbed before. I haven’t done trad climbing, but I don’t think they are very common even in trad. And I personally find them fascinating.
I’m sorry about your disease. It sounds painful. I hope you can find some treatment or something to get climbing again in the future.
That's awesome! How has the top rope soloing been going? I've only had to top rope selfbelay when setting or scrubbing routes and I assume it's similar? I just used to work my way up the route and pull the rope through a grigri. It worked really well to work myself and a bucket up the wall but never considered it for climbing. Thinking about it now that's a pretty good system for what you're after, that's awesome! How does your gym manage it? Like is it a thing they teach or test in house?
And thanks! It doesn't hurt, it just gets swollen and eventually will trigger. I've come to terms with it. I just shared for context that I'm not climbing any more but did pretty intensely for about 17 years.
My gym doesn’t want anything to do with top rope solo for patrons. They do the same thing you describe for route setting. I haven’t tested it, but I don’t think that technique would work for outdoors, since the double carabiner top rope anchor has much less friction than a gym top rope anchor.
The standard top rope solo protocol seems to be tying a fixed line top rope and using some device that can slide upwards but not down. This way it auto feeds, so you don’t need to constantly pull rope through the belay device. My setup uses a Petzl micro traxion as primary and an edelrid spoc as backup, both on the same rope.
The biggest consideration is that the exact same part of the rope is touching the same part of the rock throughout the entire route. If you project a route with your rope running over a rock ledge, it will quickly wear through the rope, so you have to tie reanchors below ledges or have rope protectors. I’ve been working on sewing my own magnetic rope protectors. It’s been a fun project.
So far, I’ve only done one climb with this setup because I’ve been busy. I really want to get back out there, but my ropes are still drying from washing them. I got some of my family to climb a few routes last weekend at the beach. Unfortunately when I was setting up the top rope anchors, I threw my rope right into the water. But it was still a fun trip nonetheless.
That's really cool! What kind of rock are you running all this on?
If I'm understand correctly, and if you're running this setup outdoors it would depend on if you have bolts low enough on the face (or at all) or a suitable spot to anchor from both the base and the summit of the climb. If all those needs are met - and like you call out, if there aren't any areas of heavy friction - it works fine. I've run it outdoors when bolting or servicing routes. Though again, like you call out, you'd need to take in rope as you go. I used to think of it like clipping on lead - pause, take, continue. Also, I really like the micro traxion. I used to use it on my buckets if I was running more than one at a time.
Sounds like you have a pretty good setup in mind! Keep us in the loop as you dial it in! As a total aside, if you're interested in doing this more and safely, you can always ask if you can volunteer time to clean routes at your gym. That's how I started working at the gym - straight volunteer time pulling holds - and I got a ton of info on different methods and safety tips for doing what you're talking about. I had already climbed for about a decade, but I learned a ton really quickly as they are all about optimization so you can pull as many routes as possible per week. About 4 months in they let me start setting too and that kicked off a 5 year love affair/career with it. It's different everywhere but it's always worth an ask, especially if you're already spending the time to figure it out.
I've posted a bunch of stuff from Magnus Mitbo and Wide Boyz over the years. It doesn't tend to get many votes or comments though, so I don't post their videos very often.
I don't climb myself, but I do watch a lot of climbers on YouTube like the aforementioned two, Adam Ondra, Sofya Yokoyama, Eric Karlsson, Emil Abrahamsson, Josh Rundle, Catalyst Climbing, Bouldering Bobat, etc. But most of those channels are pretty specific in their focus, and I think people would have to be pretty into climbing/bouldering to enjoy them... so I haven't posted anything from any of the rest.
p.s. @rosco is the only user on here that I know of who actually climbs.
Thanks for the ping! I always loved coming across your climbing posts. Wide Boyz in particular.
YVW! Similarly, I've enjoyed all our climbing related conversations over the years. :)
p.s. Sorry to hear about your condition and not being able to climb anymore. :(
Oh, hi! Yeah, I've been climbing indoors and outdoors (mostly top rope and sport lead) for about a decade. Looking forward to watching this video (even though trad scares the poop out of me, and I'm not sure I'll ever try it 😅)
I check in on my climbing progress in the fitness chat but dont usually post video content or anything. But neat to see others around. I mostly boulder and top rope
I don't climb, but this is great content and I'm really interested in learning about things I had no idea I'd have interest in. Like watching Technology Connections on youtube. I had no idea I could spend two hours learning about dishwasher efficiency, but you never know until you go down that rabbit hole.
I climb a bit, I want to go more but my climbing buddy has been busy recently :(
Would love to see more stuff on climbing. Most of my life has been involved w that world, and it seems to be one of the most positive communities in general. All on one team, ready to help, and happy to. Thanks for posting!
That was fascinating! Those folks look like a blast to hang out with haha. I hadn't heard of these devices — it took me a second to understand the purpose, but they're pretty cool. It seems like only the G Screamer actually managed to keep the load at around 4kN, though the other devices obviously still helped to some extent. It's definitely prompting me to think about how meaningful various factory test load numbers really are for aid devices.
Also, super interesting how much more load was placed on the rope by the rock than the bag of water! Obviously humans are able to absorb some amount of shock by both having compressible anatomy and by actually moving our bodies in response to force, but I wasn't expecting over a kN of difference!
Yeah, the G screamers seemed to be the winner, if there is a winner for this sort of test. I haven’t done any sort of trad climbing yet, but I do want to in the future. When I do, I’ll probably be buying the g screamers. Although I just looked it up, and they are nearly twice the price of the cheaper Yates screamers.