Weldawadyathink's recent activity

  1. Comment on Four proposals to improve the design of fuel economy standards in ~transport

    Weldawadyathink
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    Things like this are so two faced. Where are muh states rights that republicans say they want ?

    Things like this are so two faced. Where are muh states rights that republicans say they want ?

    4 votes

  2. Comment on This climbing gear is designed to fail in ~hobbies

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    My gym doesn’t want anything to do with top rope solo for patrons. They do the same thing you describe for route setting. I haven’t tested it, but I don’t think that technique would work for...

    My gym doesn’t want anything to do with top rope solo for patrons. They do the same thing you describe for route setting. I haven’t tested it, but I don’t think that technique would work for outdoors, since the double carabiner top rope anchor has much less friction than a gym top rope anchor.

    The standard top rope solo protocol seems to be tying a fixed line top rope and using some device that can slide upwards but not down. This way it auto feeds, so you don’t need to constantly pull rope through the belay device. My setup uses a Petzl micro traxion as primary and an edelrid spoc as backup, both on the same rope.

    The biggest consideration is that the exact same part of the rope is touching the same part of the rock throughout the entire route. If you project a route with your rope running over a rock ledge, it will quickly wear through the rope, so you have to tie reanchors below ledges or have rope protectors. I’ve been working on sewing my own magnetic rope protectors. It’s been a fun project.

    So far, I’ve only done one climb with this setup because I’ve been busy. I really want to get back out there, but my ropes are still drying from washing them. I got some of my family to climb a few routes last weekend at the beach. Unfortunately when I was setting up the top rope anchors, I threw my rope right into the water. But it was still a fun trip nonetheless.

    1 vote

  3. Comment on This climbing gear is designed to fail in ~hobbies

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    I’ve been climbing for a few years, and just bought the stuff for top rope solo, since my belay partner has been pretty busy recently. So I have been watching a ton of videos about climbing...

    What got you stoked enough to have you share the video?

    I’ve been climbing for a few years, and just bought the stuff for top rope solo, since my belay partner has been pretty busy recently. So I have been watching a ton of videos about climbing equipment recently. I chose this video because I wanted something that would be interesting to both experienced climbers and people who have never climbed before. I haven’t done trad climbing, but I don’t think they are very common even in trad. And I personally find them fascinating.

    I’m sorry about your disease. It sounds painful. I hope you can find some treatment or something to get climbing again in the future.

    1 vote

  4. Comment on This climbing gear is designed to fail in ~hobbies

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    Yeah, the G screamers seemed to be the winner, if there is a winner for this sort of test. I haven’t done any sort of trad climbing yet, but I do want to in the future. When I do, I’ll probably be...

    Yeah, the G screamers seemed to be the winner, if there is a winner for this sort of test. I haven’t done any sort of trad climbing yet, but I do want to in the future. When I do, I’ll probably be buying the g screamers. Although I just looked it up, and they are nearly twice the price of the cheaper Yates screamers.

    2 votes

  5. Comment on This climbing gear is designed to fail in ~hobbies

    Weldawadyathink
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    I don’t think I’ve seen any climbing content posted to tildes, and I want to change that. Do we have any other climbers here? This video is about screamers. In climbing, if you have a protection...

    I don’t think I’ve seen any climbing content posted to tildes, and I want to change that. Do we have any other climbers here?

    This video is about screamers. In climbing, if you have a protection piece that isn’t very strong, you install a screamer with it. In a fall, the screamer extends, so you fall farther, but put less force on the marginal protection.

    18 votes

  7. Comment on Pebble/Core Devices (hardware and software open source update) in ~tech

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    My general impression is pretty much what you said. Rebble was a great way to keep old devices running. It should have stuck around just for those old devices, but I don’t see why they would have...

    My general impression is pretty much what you said. Rebble was a great way to keep old devices running. It should have stuck around just for those old devices, but I don’t see why they would have any ongoing involvement with new devices.

    The way I see it, rebble provided two distinct things: an archive of the pebble App Store from the Fitbit closure, and ongoing paid api services for things like weather. The App Store archive should be publicly available and hosted on something like the internet archive or a public torrent. The paid api services should ideally continue to be available for older devices, but a new commercial device using a service like rebble would be bonkers. So that part of rebble should stay separate (unless core devices decided it was profitable and worth it to run those services).

    The agreed system sharing where rebble would handle parts of the server infrastructure for a separate commercial entity was weird. It seemed like it was naturally unstable. I’m not surprised it fell apart.

    9 votes

  8. Comment on Want to get a 3D printer for miniatures that work well with open source software in ~hobbies

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    I found out recently that my library has some Prusa printers, but they have an arbitrary print time limit of 4 hours. I know my mini is likely a bit slower than the standard Prusa, but 4 hours for...

    I found out recently that my library has some Prusa printers, but they have an arbitrary print time limit of 4 hours. I know my mini is likely a bit slower than the standard Prusa, but 4 hours for a print is nothing. I’m not sure you could even print the articulating octopus that everyone seems to print at any reasonable quality and scale settings within 4 hours.

    6 votes

  9. Comment on Want to get a 3D printer for miniatures that work well with open source software in ~hobbies

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    I think it’s worth pointing out that, for the most part, you can use any slicer with any printer. Slicers output gcode files, and basically all printers allow you to run an arbitrary gcode file.

    I think it’s worth pointing out that, for the most part, you can use any slicer with any printer. Slicers output gcode files, and basically all printers allow you to run an arbitrary gcode file.

    2 votes

  10. Comment on Looking for recommendations for a new home router in ~tech

    Weldawadyathink
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    Yes. Well actually no, but effectively yes. I don’t think modern routers support original 802.11 or 802.11a, but I don’t think there are any consumer devices that uses these revisions. And I am...

    Are modern routers fully backwards compatible with older devices?

    Yes. Well actually no, but effectively yes. I don’t think modern routers support original 802.11 or 802.11a, but I don’t think there are any consumer devices that uses these revisions. And I am pretty sure your current router doesn’t support these, so if everything you have now works on your router, it will work on a new router.

    Anyway, I have an eero, and I quite like it. If you want to set WiFi up once and ignore it forever, eero will be perfect. If you want to tinker, set up vlans, have multiple networks, or do other fancy things, you will want something different. Apple used to make a router, and it was loved by many people for «  it just works » (and it actually did, unlike some modern Apple devices). Many people consider eero to be the spiritual successor to the Apple routers. I never used an Apple router, but the eero routers « just work » for me. I have had eeros at my parents house now for probably 4 years. They have WiFi issues every so often. But the number of times it was caused by the eeros is exactly zero.

    4 votes

  11. Comment on Amtrak steadily continues upgrading Wisconsin stations for level boarding - improving access and travel time in ~transport

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    That is around the distance where high speed sleeper trains stand out. Sleepers are absolutely fantastic, but I think the only high speed sleepers in the world are in China.

    That is around the distance where high speed sleeper trains stand out. Sleepers are absolutely fantastic, but I think the only high speed sleepers in the world are in China.

    2 votes

  12. Comment on US President Donald Trump rolls back tariffs on dozens of food products in ~society

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    You mentioned beef elsewhere, so I won’t beat a dead horse. Nuts? Avocado? Citrus? Tomatos? Peppers? The US, and California in particular, produces those in huge quantities. Tea, Coffee, and Cocoa...

    You mentioned beef elsewhere, so I won’t beat a dead horse.

    Nuts? Avocado? Citrus? Tomatos? Peppers? The US, and California in particular, produces those in huge quantities. Tea, Coffee, and Cocoa are probably the only thing that the US doesn’t produce on that list. The US produces 40% of the pistachios worldwide. Similar numbers are true for many of the products on that list.

  13. Comment on How long do homemade olives stay safe? in ~food

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    That is what I was going for, but I didn’t phrase it very well. I should have phrased it like « there are no microbes that can digest honey within the chemical matrix of honey ». There is no...

    That is what I was going for, but I didn’t phrase it very well. I should have phrased it like « there are no microbes that can digest honey within the chemical matrix of honey ». There is no fundamental reason a microbe couldn’t evolve to handle the matrix of honey. Saccharomyces cereviciae, the yeast that ferments wine, beer, cider, mead, and bread, originally could not handle more than a few percent alcohol. As it has been domesticated by humans, it can handle much higher alcohol. Alcohol laws in the US after prohibition had a higher tax on wine above 14% because anything higher was fortified, since yeast would die around 14%. But today we have yeast that can ferment reliably up to 15 and 16%.

    3 votes

  14. Comment on How long do homemade olives stay safe? in ~food

    Weldawadyathink
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    Olives are outside my expertise, but microbial stability is incredibly important for winemaking. I can’t give you a definitive answer, but I can give you some information. First, some olives are...

    Olives are outside my expertise, but microbial stability is incredibly important for winemaking. I can’t give you a definitive answer, but I can give you some information.

    First, some olives are apparently brined, not fermented. A short internet search suggests the brining method involves salt and ph neutral water. Since yours are in vinegar, they likely used one of the methods that involve fermentation. Can you confirm? Also, it may have involved fermentation even if you didn’t know you were fermenting it. I made a fermented garlic paste that involved putting garlic through a food processor, adding some salt, and leaving it out for a few weeks. This is a lactofermentation, which is one of the most common types of fermentation (excluding alcoholic fermentations).

    If your olives are brined, I can’t help you. But if they are fermented, I can say they are probably safe. Food doesn’t just « go bad » on its own. It can oxidize through contact with the atmosphere or get exposed to a microbe that can grow on it. Honey famously never spoils. This isn’t because of some special property of the honey. It is just that no microbes exist that can digest honey. As soon as one evolves that can digest honey, it will start spoiling. That is the same reason plastic never breaks down.

    This type of fermentation is completed by a bacteria called lactobacillus. They ferment the single ring sugars into lactic acid. They do this because it provides energy, and because it makes the environment less hospitable to other microbes. On an evolutionary scale, if you can kill all the competitors you have a huge advantage. This is also the reason why yeasts produce alcohol from sugars: most microbes can’t survive in alcohol.

    I don’t know the process for making olives, but many fermentations just add the items to a solution of vinegar and salt. This creates a solution where lactobacillus can flourish and most other microbes can’t grow. Fresh crops are like a ball at the top of a mountain. They could roll off in any direction. We just push the ball in the direction we want, and natural processes will take over. The vinegar is just this first push in the right direction, allowing our preferred microbes to take over instead of a different one.

    There are only two microbes that can survive in finished wine: brettanomyces and lactobacillus. For Brett, we just try and make sure the wine is never exposed. For lactobacillus, we add preservatives to prevent it from being able to survive. But for both of these, they never make wine unsafe to drink. Spoiled wine is never unsafe, just unpleasant. I don’t know if the same is true for fermented olives, but I would imagine it is.

    So here would be my recommendation: if they look good, smell good, and taste good, they are probably fine. The human body is pretty good at telling us if things are bad by having them smell or taste bad. It can fail at times (stinky cheeses smell bad but aren’t). But it is still pretty good.

    4 votes

  15. Comment on Pennies are being canceled and the US Mint won't make any more. What does that mean? in ~finance

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    I don’t know. It seems like a prisoner’s dilemma type situation. A single small business going against the trend might just fail to competitors who do pricing BS, and not make any real change in...

    I don’t know. It seems like a prisoner’s dilemma type situation. A single small business going against the trend might just fail to competitors who do pricing BS, and not make any real change in the world. That being said, I try to live by the ideal of « be the change you want to see in the world ». If everyone just sticks with the status quo, the status quo never changes. If I were in your position, I would probably try round pricing and see if it will cause enough lost sales to threaten profitability significantly. My guess is it won’t matter, so charging $200 to not be part of the problem would be good. But if it actually changes sales enough to matter, I wouldn’t think poorly of a small business owner trying to make things work out.

    As a side note, I would also include tax in the list price. The fact that tax isn’t included is absolutely asinine. Comparing cost of living between France and California was sometimes quite annoying, since everything in CA was 10% higher than the actual list price.

    5 votes

  16. Comment on Valve announces new hardware: Steam Frame, Steam Controller, and Steam Machine in ~games

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    From the LTT video, it uses ddr5 sodimm memory, so you can upgrade the ram as well. The CPU is BGA, so no upgrades on that without very extensive board repair experience.

    From the LTT video, it uses ddr5 sodimm memory, so you can upgrade the ram as well. The CPU is BGA, so no upgrades on that without very extensive board repair experience.

    1 vote

  17. Comment on Pennies are being canceled and the US Mint won't make any more. What does that mean? in ~finance

    Weldawadyathink
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    The US used to mint a half penny coin. We stopped minting it in 1857 because it was considered to be too little value to be worth it. At the time of cancelling it, it had the spending power of 12...

    The US used to mint a half penny coin. We stopped minting it in 1857 because it was considered to be too little value to be worth it. At the time of cancelling it, it had the spending power of 12 to 17 cents. Let that sink in for a moment. A dime is less valuable than a half penny. So let’s cancel nickels and dimes too. Round everything to the nearest 25 cents.

    As an added bonus, it would prevent companies from nickel and diming us consumers ;)

    34 votes

  18. Comment on Valve announces new hardware: Steam Frame, Steam Controller, and Steam Machine in ~games

    Weldawadyathink
    Link Parent
    The Apple Vision Pro uses foveated rendering, and does it quite well.

    The Apple Vision Pro uses foveated rendering, and does it quite well.

    6 votes

  19. Comment on PIGS, an opinionated unmarketable personal calculator in ~creative

    Weldawadyathink
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    This is really cool! I love the percentage mode. It’s one of those things that seem like such a simple interface idea, but I don’t think anyone has done it before. This would be far more work than...

    This is really cool! I love the percentage mode. It’s one of those things that seem like such a simple interface idea, but I don’t think anyone has done it before.

    This would be far more work than it’s worth, but having one in an hp-11c form factor with an Apple Watch style Digital Crown on the side would be sick!

    2 votes

  20. Comment on Advice on poor Linux performance vs Windows in ~tech

    Weldawadyathink
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    Are you sure it isn’t confusion between MBps and Mbps? 300MBps is 2400 Mbps. The fact that you say the difference is about 10x matches this, since the B to b difference is 8x.

    Are you sure it isn’t confusion between MBps and Mbps? 300MBps is 2400 Mbps. The fact that you say the difference is about 10x matches this, since the B to b difference is 8x.

    23 votes