If you had to buy a car today, what would you buy?
Lots of details
I've been driving a 2006 Honda Ridgeline for the last 13 years. The engine is still reliable, just change the oil and keep fluids topped up, but there is rust in the frame that won't pass inspection. I'm going to take it in to get it looked at this week, but I am afraid it won't be worth repairing. If I have doubt that it can be safely repaired (I'm fairly risk averse), I would rather replace it.
This model Ridgeline is basically a Honda Pilot with a bed. I've often said it's the perfect amount of truck for a software engineer. I do think I'd like to have another truck, but I'd consider other options, like a smaller SUV or a larger hatchback.
The truck has been our go-to travel car for road trips. We tend to bring a ton of stuff, so the bed has been nice, but having interior cargo space might also be useful. We don't do as many big hauling / years things as we used to, so the truck bed is probably optional.
I was hoping that by the time I wore out the Ridgeline, there would be more plugin electric or real hybrid options, but it seems like there aren't many options. I wouldn't buy a Rivian or Tesla (not been around long enough). But I'd definitely be interested in peoples thoughts about hybrid options out there. If I'm looking at used hybrids, what kind of things should I worry about with the battery?
The conventional wisdom when I was growing up was that a used car lost half its value when you drove it off the lot, so it was better to buy used. But in recent years, I've been seeing something more like linear depreciation. Helping my dad buy a new truck last year, it seemed like the year-old or two-year-old used options were just a few thousand less than new.
Bottom line: I live in Western Pennsylvania in the US. I may shortly need to replace my aging Honda Ridgeline. I need a mid-sized truck/van/SUV that can be a good "road trip" car for a family of three that chronically overpacks.
What car do you like? What car buying or car selling wisdom do you have in the post-pandemic car market?
I would buy a Subaru.
Chain controls in the Lake Tahoe region require AWD/4WD with snow tires, or mandatory chains. 2WD with snow tires still require chains, even though it would be just as safe without chains. That limits my purchase options to the high end package of expensive SUV, or a Subaru.
Most likely I would buy used to save money since I don’t have extra spending money. But this question seems to suppose buying new, so let’s assume I got a financial windfall of some kind. If I am buying new, I am definitely getting a plug in hybrid, at minimum. So I would probably get the new Subaru electric car. I might get their plug in hybrid they released a few years ago, but I would like to go full electric if I could.
I have owned two Subaru so far. They are high quality vehicles that are well made. There are a bunch of small quality things they do that other manufacturers consistently get wrong. For example, when you turn off the car, the headlights turn off. Cars already have a keyed relay, so it literally costs the manufacturer 0$ extra to do this. But most cars still get this wrong. Some even go so far as to program an alarm when you leave the lights on. If you know the problem, and the solution is obvious, than just solve the problem for me.
Anyway, I have been happy with both of my Subaru, and I would buy another one if needed.
Strongly agree. I got a Crosstrek a few years ago and I’ve been very happy with it. After owning a coupe for nearly a decade it was nice to upgrade to a SUV without some of the downsides of a big one.
My only word of caution is if you’re using the stock all weather tires to check your car’s handbook. Mine specifically instructs me to not put chains on it, or else I’ll void the warranty. I’ve only taken the car in light snow so far, but the all weathers have handled well.
My hope is to not buy another car for a long time, but I’ll definitely consider another Subaru when I do.
Good point about the tires. I would also warn that those stock all weathers are not the highest quality. When they rate them for 30k miles, you can bet that one will fail at damn close to 30k.
While I like our crosstrek, I would also suggest that most city dwellers ought to buy an Impreza. It is literally the same chassis, just with less of a lift... which translates to a solid 10-15% improvement in gas efficiency.
Impreza is stuck with the CVT paired to the 2.0, at least the Crosstrek can get the 2.5.
Unless they've made huge improvements to the CVT in the Impreza, that thing is a dog and moves like it's got a bum leg. If you don't put it into 'manual' mode or Sport, it'll try to fake a shift at like 1,500rpm.
That said, I prefer it lower and without all the plastic cladding.
Hitting curbs with the plastic skirting is probably the biggest problem my wife has with her Impreza!
I saw a car with the sticker "Hot Girls Hit Curbs" so maybe just buy her that?
She might get one that says "Hot girls hit husbands"!
Yeah I suspected as much about the tires, but I appreciate the heads up.
My friend got the Impreza recently and loves it, but I’m just not a big fan of the profile of hatchbacks myself. I agree though it’s a good car and worth considering.
I actually would not buy a Subaru. I don’t know what your year of make is, but Subaru of America is actually really shit for customer service. Another note, all Subaru dealers are privately owned. If you have an issue with your car you get stuck playing hot potato between corporate and the private dealer.
I have a 2021 plug in hybrid crosstrek and I would not recommend it or any of its successors to anyone. Subaru build quality and repairability has gone down. They have had several recalls or TSB’s on prematurely corroding wires. And most of their dashboards have become non-tactile. The mileage on the new crosstrek is also bad. Personally I find the A pillar thickness and placement on compact suvs to create new visibility issues when compared to other types of cars. SUVs also exist outside of normal regulations because of The SUV loophole, if that kind of thing matters to you. Lastly, the cargo space of many compact SUVs is really not great compared to even a sedan. They have increased vertical space and space when all the seats are down, which wouldn’t apply to OPs scenario since they have passengers.
Perhaps you weren’t suggesting a crosstrek, but that is one of the most popular models so I weighed in on that.
Perhaps I got a lemon, but I won’t know until the lawsuit I’m in is over, which has been going on for about a year now.
That is unfortunate to hear. I really hope it was just a lemon.
On the dealership subject, that is something that affects my decision as well. In my town, the Subaru dealer (same dealer for like 80% of the brands) is fine, but not good in any way. However we have a local family owned repair shop that exclusively repairs Subaru. They are absolutely fantastic in every way. Actually both of the Subaru I have bought were from them. Part of the reason I would buy a Subaru is so I could take it there to get it repaired. If they announced today that they were going to switch to repairing another brand exclusively, I would very likely buy that brand.
I don’t like the crosstrek either. My dad has the 2013 crosstrek and I have the 2011 outback. I haven’t driven the current models, so I don’t know how much they have changed. The crosstrek, in my opinion, feels like they combined the worst parts of their sedan with the worst parts of their SUV. It is big and bulky, but somehow still has very little space for storage. My Outback can hold significantly more stuff than my dad’s crosstrek, and still manages to feel like a smaller car. Also the Outback (and Subaru in general) are smaller than the rest of the industry of SUV. American SUV are so stupidly oversized that it is nice to have something a bit more sensible.
These are good points re: dealers/mechanics.
Some other general advice I have/lessons learned from my experience:
When you are an early adopter, you give up a lot of freedom with regards to repairs or what to expect maintenance wise. You will not find a lot of people to share their experiences with you.
I did not do my due diligence regarding where I would be living with the car. The electric crosstrek was not sold everywhere, the state I moved to did not have electric infrastructure nor mechanics familiar with the car, hence the butchering of the repair. I assumed mechanics would have enough self-awareness to recuse themselves in things they had no experience in, I was wrong. I consider this assumption a huge oversight, in retrospect.
Basically, I would ask anyone to consider how easy will their car be when it needs repair or maintenance, and truly deep dive on that. Also, what is TRULY most important to you (gas mileage, environment? comfort? looks cool? cost?) be honest with yourself.
Usually AWD is available on the lower end packages as well. Maybe what your local dealers are bringing in is the issue there.
All of my car shopping has been used cars for financial reasons, so my familiarity with new cars is pretty limited. I just checked Toyota’s builder for the RAV4, and it looks like you are right. The 4WD was $1500 or so, which seems reasonable. So it might have been the crappy dealer we had in my town. However in the used market (again, in my area), A/4WD is exclusively limited to pickup trucks, top end expensive SUV, or Subaru. So if you car shop on a budget, Subaru is pretty much your only choice.
All Subarus have AWD, with the exception of the BRZ. FWIW.
For OPs use case, I can recommend a Subaru Outback. I loved my 2021 model (caveats below),and it fits most of those use cases well. Fits large people well, decent rear cargo, ability to tow and a good roof rack.
The things I didn't like:
In the end, I would have kept the car if not for the biggest use case for me: Driving round trip 4 miles every schoolday because the town doesn't do bussing. Getting up and ready in time to walk the two miles with two under second grade was not viable, especially in winter.
This was murdering the ICE engine as the car would never get to temp, and I never drove it enough on the weekends to help burn off the cruft. Less than 2 years into ownership, with less than 60k on it (incl previous owner), it was making the 'chugga chugga' start that didn't happen on my 2012 Toyota Sienna until 130k.
So when a small windfall presented the opportunity to swap to a larger EV I ditched it. Can't be happier, but I'm pretty sure my car won't work for OP.
Which EV did you get?
I was considering upsizing to a Model Y for a while (coming from a Model 3), but for a bunch of reasons, I don't want to do that anymore. Still looking to upsize within the next few years, and while what I would actually like is coming out in 2026 or 2027 (Rivian R2 or R3), if I need to replace it sooner than that, I don't know what I'd get within that same price range and size category.
A VW ID.4. It was the roomiest I could afford (on the order of $28k) while providing a decent balance of rear passenger comfort and cargo space.
Interesting. I do hate how traditional companies are nickle and diming for every single feature and accessory (especially the heat pump, which should basically be mandatory in new EVs), but it still comes out within my budget.
Hopefully I won't need to use this knowledge anytime soon, but it does seem like the ID.4 would meet my needs.
I will warn you, range drops in winter below 40F part due to battery efficiency, but also because of lack of heat pump (which I also agree is dumb. One reversing valve and problem solved).
Rumour has it that due to user feedback that they'll be bringing more buttons back in a few years.
There are a few truely braindead decisions in my 2021 model. The window controls on the driver side only have two buttons, and then in the space that formerly had two other buttons is a touch pad with a lighted status to toggle the buttons to control the rear windows instead. It's impossible to control all four windows at once and impossible to tell which set you're controlling without looking off the road, and probably not any cheaper once factoring in the additional software troubleshooting to facilitate this dumb decision.
I'm really hoping we get a true BEV equivalent to the Outback in the next clue of years - would an easy decision to upgrade from my current Outback.
Do you find that they have a high cost of maintenance? I am considering a Subaru but have heard many say that they have issues fairly often.
In my experience, it wasn't low, but it wasn't particularly high.
There are some car brands, namely Toyota and Honda, that have the reputation for being particularly indestructible. These are the types of cars that you can abuse, and they will still last you for hundreds of thousands of miles. Subaru cars are not in this category. However, they can still last for hundreds of thousands of miles if you take care of them. That means doing the recommended maintenance schedule exactly as prescribed. When you hear funny noises, you get it diagnosed as soon as possible. When your mechanic (assuming you have a good mechanic) recommends you repair or replace something, you do it now, you don't wait until it causes further damage.
I bought a 2002 Forester at 175k miles (estimated) and drove it for years until 245k miles (estimated). From my memory, here are the repairs I needed:
I bought a 2011 Outback at 155k miles, and it is still in use. I think it's around 210k (estimated). From memory, the repairs:
You may notice I haven't mentioned the head gaskets. Subarus are infamous for needing a new head gasket, usually around 100k miles. This is especially true of the 2002 era cars, and is much less true for their modern cars. This head gasket issue is likely where Subaru gets its reputation for high maintenance costs. When you first get signs of head gasket issues, you must stop driving IMMEDIATELY. If you do, you are in for an expensive repair. If you keep driving, you are in for a very expensive repair. The original owner for my 2002 Forester ignored the head gasket signs and threw a rod. The engine was taken from a car that was wrecked. The family run repair shop I mentioned in my other comments are an important factor with my experience. They do Subaru sales, and they fix head gasket issues on every single car before they sell it.
TL;DR If you maintain your Subaru, it will be fine. If you don't maintain it, you will have more expensive maintenance costs.
As much as I love my Bolt, this is also the answer I wanted to give.
If I could afford a brand new electric Subaru, this is what I would get. This is what I actually really wanted, but was entirely out of our budget when we needed to get a new car at the end of 2023. Since it wasn't feasible for us to get it, we test drove the Bolt EUV and fell in love.
If you are looking for a bigger Subaru, we have a 23' Ascent and love it. It's our first Subaru and I could see getting another one.
I’ve had Hondas for a long time. I recently bought a Toyota. I think those are the top two brands but neither is particularly strong with respect to electric cars. It most of the new Toyotas are hybrids and get very good gas mileage. If I wanted an electric I would get a Kia maybe.
I only looked at sedans though, not trucks.
Road Trip Car? Toyota Sienna Hybrid. You don't have to worry about EV range and finding charging stations (and having the family wait).
Throw out any 'conventional' car buying wisdom - just find a good deal, new or used, and go with that. A used car isn't always the best deal these days - people are still charging like new prices for used cars in some locations. I find fifteen year old Toyotas near me with almost 200k miles for five figures.
Me? I'd look for an Ioniq 5 myself. Maverick Hybrid is good, solid 48 mpg in city driving but heaven help you if someone doesn't wanna pack up the bed, the passenger cabin is basically just for passengers.
I loved my (non-hybrid) 2012 Toyota Sienna as a road trip car. Minivans have skyrocketed to unaffordability though, especially Toyota hybrids.
I disagree about EV roadtrips, to a point. I actually am appreciating the forced breaks every 140ish miles (doing 80% to 20% and back to 80% for fastest recharges). Roadside attractions and malls would do well to install L2 or better chargers to draw in that EV traffic.
If I was going to buy a car like OP, and budget was no concern, I'd get a VW ID Buzz. I love my ID.4, and would upgrade if money were no object.
But then, I live in a flat area, an EV fits my daily driver usage, and I have a deep distrust of anything by GM, KIA, or Hyundai (and a less-deep distrust of other American cars). l have no idea what the charging situation in Western PA looks like, so I wouldn't exactly reccomend an EV for OP either witout knowing that.
I looked at and very nearly bought a Maverick. :) only the fact that I live in the sticks (no charge ports) and I got given an old SUV stopped me.
I love my 2014 Prius V with the Advance Tech package. I'm not a new car buyer, and I don't go to dealerships. We got ours off FB marketplace for $6k a few months ago. Sure, we had to do the head gasket, master cylinder, and ABS pump, but YouTube had tutorials for all three (the latter two are generally done together anyway), and we still came in well under dealer price for the car.
The Prius V isn't like other Priuses. It's got a lot more room in the back - I don't know the measurements, but we are comfortable car camping in it, and we can fit four goose-suitable kennels or six bales of straw back there (/r/anythingbutmetric).
The Prius community seems very into DIY and helping one another. We've gotten lots of advice, some of it good, on multiple forums, and people have walked us through using the software mechanics use to do mechanic stuff (deeper diagnostics, the software side of brake bleeding, etc.).
I don't know if it's big enough for you, but we're finding it incredibly versatile, and now that the big fixes out of the way, we are crossing our fingers and hoping it makes it to 400k miles (which, maybe survivorship bias is in play here, but that's not infrequent from what we see on the forums).
Addendum: I used "we" very liberally in this post, but my girlfriend is the mechanic in the relationship, and I've done my best to accurately explain the process she went through to diagnose and fix things. She's not trained, just resourceful, frugal, and determined.
Second the Prius, I bought a 2nd gen Prius for $9k for 80k miles. Still going strong with no repairs payed for so far. I did have too argue with my dealer about the battery needing replaced, bc they sold it to me under that assumption (it being already replaced). However, after buying an OBD2 reader, I’m confident in weeding that issue out now ($20 off Amazon). It’s a car that’s cheap to maintain other than the hybrid battery, but even then I think it’s worth it, you can get them installed for $1k if you don’t want to do it yourself. I would be comfortable spending less on a Prius for like 150k miles because frankly, they’re tanks. Also, buy old cars, they work great still.
The Ford Maverick sounds like it would fit your needs and the hybrid version gets 45+mpg.
Would also recommend the Maverick. I got 42 mpg the entire way from Wisconsin to Eastern Pennsylvania. If you can find / wait for the hybrid model they claim it gets near 60 mpg.
I was able to fit my entire camping kit in the back with room to spare. 10/10 truck. The only way it could be better is if it had a 6' bed for carrying 10' materials.
I’ll be looking around myself late this year when my current lease (a Nissan Ariya) ends.
The equation is tough, particularly for those of us who don’t drive a ton (I don’t commute). In my area the used market was all kinds of ridiculous when I was shopping back in July/August… anything that wasn’t half dead and/or ancient already was marked up way too high when you account for the need to drag the thing to a mechanic to check out and still risk being subjected to chunky repair costs and/or having to spend way too much time under the hood. I drive to get my groceries, stop by the hardware store, and occasionally make the odd slightly longer trip, which means it’s simply not worth the frustration. To justify having a car at all, I need to just be able to get in and go without thinking about it too much.
It’s particularly bad in my case because I prefer small, highly maneuverable hatchbacks that are a cinch to park even on city streets, which are just about extinct in the US, which has driven prices of e.g. Honda Fits even higher and into the territory of more common large vehicles. Used Chevy Bolts are almost electric Fits and are cheap which is cool, except they’ve been through a ton of recalls and charge slowly which kneecaps longer trip capability. Similar caveats apply to other small EVs like the Leaf, too. While I love the idea of the Telo which should start shipping around the time my lease ends, I know better than to invest in a first-generation car. The Rivian R3 looks just about perfect (it’s like if a VW Golf merged with a Toyota Matrix, was turned electric, and then had some 80s design cues added) it’s not even known when pre-orders will open for those.
I might end up buying a used 2022/2023 Bolt or Leaf anyway, but I’m hoping that some other options like the new generation of Fiat 500e’s will be coming off lease and be reasonably priced. I’d prefer to not have to switch to traditional ICE or hybrid, but who knows, maybe I’ll end up in one of those late model manual transmission Yaris hatchbacks since not being automatic brings their price down to earth somewhat. I can’t drive a manual currently but I’m sure I can figure it out for the amount of money saved. Or maybe I’ll just throw in the towel and buy an old Matrix and just live with the fact that it’ll need to be worked on. I dunno.
Toyota Rav4 hybrid. It's plenty road trip comfortable for 3. Great gas mileage. Strong resale value. AWD. Very reliable and when something does go wrong they're incredibly common so parts, mechanics, YouTube tutorials, etc, are plentiful. Solid tech and driver assists. Great car.
I recently test drove one of these and was shocked by how much I disliked driving it. I felt like it tended to stay at higher RPMs, didn't have much power, and the interior felt kind of cheap.
Do you have a hybrid or a regular version?
Hybrid. The hybrid is a CVT so no high revving. One of the things that we liked was that it actually had better build quality than the Honda CRV and Hyundai Tucson which are in the same class.
Could you elaborate? CVTs do and can rev high - that's most of the point of them in motorsports, wide open throttle.
I guess the Hybrid motor probably helps it get moving, which absolves the CVTs sin of needing to get to 2.5k just to move off a stop sign before your children die of old age but anything outside the motors range is fake shifting.
I was responding to a post about them "staying at higher RPM" which doesn't make much sense in the context of the CVT. I think they were driving the all gas version with a traditional transmission.
But a CVT does stay at the RPM required to maintain peak power which, if needed, will stay high. My current CVT drones on at about 3k to maintain highway speeds where my old 6 speed used to be able to shift into sixth which was geared to keep the RPMs down around 2k at 70mph. If I set the CVT to "Sport" mode, it'll hold higher RPMs to match peak power at any given point in the power curve instead, whereas sport on my old GTI meant "I don't shift until I need to." At any given time, CVT might hold a higher RPM than the GTI would've if that's where the engine's peak horsepower was. Any time the CVT isn't holding at peak horsepower is just software (and hardware) trickery to make them perform more like "regular cars."
A big V8 with a 10 speed tuned to be a highway cruiser will sit at a lower RPM than an NA F4 with a CVT at the same highway speed.
Yeah I agree with that. You dont even have to change the engine you can make any CVT be at higher rpm at an equivalent freeway speed than a traditional transmission if it's tuned as such. I think we're operating off different ideas of what the look and feel of describing a car as higher revving is. I think of it as spending a lot of time somewhere between the typical shift point and redline during everyday driving. Which imo doesn't describe any CVT cars I'm familiar with. Performance or luxury cars might be different though I don't have a lot of experience with them. The bit that I can add to anyone searching for cars is whatever the definition of high revving you're using the CVT version of the Rav 4 is not it, it stays at sensible rpm all the way up till you get over typical freeway speeds.
Thanks, I will add it to my test drive list!
I've read great reviews for Mazda Cx-5 and Cx-9 - the unsung hero of the Japanese car market. We're waiting for a Hyundai to die first, but pending better affordability of new cars when the time comes, we'll likely be buying a slightly used Mazda if I get my way.
The CX-5 and Mazda 3 hatch were among those on my list to consider last time I was in the market. They’re really nice for the price and the more traditionally-styled dash is welcome.
Could I ask you more about the dash? I'm not up to date - does your comment mean that it's less of a do everything screen and more of what older cars have?
If so, I'm in heaven. Aftermarket double din stereos are my fave.
Yeah, Mazda has been much slower to embrace the “touchscreen all the things” school of design. More buttons, and in fact the infotainment software is made to be used with a little click-dial in the center console so you don’t need to awkwardly lurch forward to poke things while driving.
Not slower, but ahead of the curve.
I believe it was for the 2021 model year (may have been the 2020) that Mazda got rid of the touchscreen. They'd always had the dial, but, according to the lady who sold us our 2021 CX-5, they had so many complaints about fingerprints on the screen that Mazda just got rid of touch controls. With my elbow on the armrest, my hand naturally fell on the dial, and the volume knob was just to the left. Environmental controls were all knobs and buttons as well (but kind of hard to read in some light conditions).
Our CX-5 just got totaled, and we're debating whether to get a different car, or just get another CX-5.
My father in law is the manager of a high volume mechanic shop. When I mentioned I was looking at the CX-5 he said “hm. We never see any of those.”
I bought it that day.
I'm so happy to hear that.
I've had a CX-5 for 11 years now. I haven't regretted it for a second.
Do you ever use it for transporting things? I'm wondering whether I might be able to squeeze 8 foot lumber in there along the centre console or whether I should get a roof rack.
I have a type (like some people have for dating) of a vehicle I buy. I should say Ive had over 50 vehicles because Ive bought, restored, driven and sold quite a few over 40 years as a hobby.
My type is something older, with high mileage, but well taken care of. And I lean toward SUV more than car since I live in a place with snowy roads in the boonies and I do a lot of long distance road trips. I generally start shopping for something about the time most people think it's 'aged out' and are getting rid of it. Which is why my current 03 Toyota Sequoia has 440,000 km, my 05 Honda Pilot has 420,000 km and my 03 GMC Yukon has 410,000 km.
Why buy old and high mileage?
The OP's Ridgeline is a decent SUV/truck. Id stick within the Honda family and get a newer Pilot for the family and for road trips.
Curious - how do you evaluate what kind of condition these high mileage cars are in? And do you work on them yourself? I know the basics, but am not a "car guy" by any means. Also, my reliable (and cheap) mechanic retired, and I haven't found another one, so we've seen our repair costs on our older cars go up quite a bit in the last few years.
Yeah, that's the tricky part all right. I do work on them myself and I do have a fair bit of 'backyard mechanic' experience so I do have some basic tests for any vehicle. Things like checking to see if the engine is cold when I arrive so I know the seller hasnt warmed it up to get rid of any starting issues. Giving it a thorough inspection when the engine is running to look for oil leaks, vacuum leaks and especially odd noises. Opening the oil filler cap when running to see if there is smoke or blow by (valve leaks). Checking the exhaust color. Checking the coolant for color and level. Smelling the transmission dipstick for burnt smell. Bouncing the body up and down to see if the shocks are still ok. Checking all the accessories for proper function. And a good test drive of course listening for unusual sounds, odd handling, or anything not working smoothly.
But the other main factor is reading the seller. I always buy privately and I ask questions from the seller. If Im lucky they're somewhat meticulous and can show me all the maintenance thats been done on the vehicle for years. I look for someone who's honest - they not only tell me about the good things but also share the things that might need repair or are soon to be failing on the vehicle. I stay away from young owners, from people who have only owned for a short time, those who have no clue about their vehicle, or just seem to be evasive about answering any questions.
Cant say Ive never been screwed, but its rare. I did swap an old classic Chevy truck for a very nice looking Suburban a couple years ago and on its first trip, pulling a loaded car trailer, not only did the transmission slip but the engine bent a valve. Basically sold it for scrap value but thats one out of 50 so Id say the odds have still been in my favor. Well, that's a long winded answer for ya.
If you don't mind weighting in a bit more, what's your take on frame damage (rust)?
The general tenor of what I've been able to find online is that beyond a certain point, it's dangerous to drive and it's difficult to repair. But I wonder how conservative that approach is - I imagine much of that is about avoiding lawsuits.
Maybe since the engine runs well, I can find someone who wants it for parts.
Bad frame rust definitely kills value and yeah, it's rarely worth repairing unless it's a valuable classic vehicle. But I also find people who don't live in the 'rust belt' areas get way too excited about seeing surface rust on a frame. It has to be thick, flaking 'bubbling' rust to weaken the frame and if it's only one spot it's possibly repairable. If you can poke a hole right through it with a screwdriver it's not worth the hassle. Honda makes great engines but body and frame rust is definitely an issue.
Not who you are asking but a little insight. My old mechanic (same as you, he retaired but was incredible, honest, and cheap) pretty told me straight up not to buy cars with rust or ones with a lived history in an area that would enable it (particularly New England). I have a few rusty patches from places on the body that got dinged, but anything under the body would be a no go for me.
There is one thing you are neglecting to consider which is safety. Newer vehicles are much safer from my understanding!
Most of the significant safety changes were already around 20 years ago. My ancient Sequoia has driver and passenger air bags, front seat-mounted side-impact and overhead front side curtain air bags, traction control, stability control, 4 wheel disc ABS braking, 3 point seatbelts on all 8 seats, electronic brake distribution. There are a few newer features not included but its very safe. And heavy.
Just had a conversation with my wife recently that if we had to buy a new car today, we'd get a Hyundai Santa Cruz. The XRT is awesome but even the base model can pull 3500lbs.
I'd buy a Lexus IS 350/ES 350 with an F-Sport Trim. I've been saving for one for years now lol
Honestly anything that is used, in good condition, and as basic as possible while still meeting my needs. I’ve fallen into the trap of dreaming about various features and adding one more option on. Most of the time, you will not notice any specific feature a car has. As long as it is reliable and does everything you need your vehicle to do, you will be just as happy.
Costs balloon quickly and maybe you are someone who is fortunate enough that $300 a month isn’t a big deal, but if you have to sacrifice your savings or do less things that you like to do to support a car purchase, the trade off is not worth it.
I'm seconding the Maverick. It's a small truck, the hybrid genuinely gets over 40MPG, it has a nice interior, and it's cheap for a new vehicle.
Honda Odyssey or Chrysler Pacifica, used on either.
I love minivans and odds are I'll need to replace my current one before either of my other cars. Even if my kids were grown I'd probably buy one of them, as the sheer utility of a can cannot be beat.
I bought a Tesla model y in 2023, and I'd do it again in a hearbeat. I know its the cool thing on the internet to deface and destroy tesla cars, but this thing fits every single requirement for me and the drive assist software (""""FSD""""") is actually incredible. I've done a 5k mile cross country trip with it already, and multiple shorter trips (600ish miles) plus daily work commute and love every minute of it. Being able to charge at home/work and literally never having to think about it can not be understated as well.
Even if Tesla stops existing in the future, I'm only going to buy EVs.
I don't know yet but I've been thinking about what to replace my Tesla Model Y with, for obvious reasons... Probably a Kia. I want something with a quieter cabin than what we have now though.
Might be worth checking out the Nissan Ariya. I’m leasing one right now and the cabin is very quiet thanks to how it’s made, with features like double pane windows. The top end trim is very nice too, almost being an Infiniti version of the model, and can be found at very reasonable prices used.
Is it at all similar to the Nissan Leaf? I had a Leaf for a while and the electric powertrain was rock solid. The rest of the car was a different story though.
I had it for a year and in that time, the driver's side power door lock stopped working when it was hot outside and the AC condensation hose clogged and caused the passenger footwell to flood. Apparently the power door lock issue is a known issue with Nissan door locks. I don't know if the AC condensation hose issue is a common Nissan problem, but I've never had an AC condensation hose clog on any other vehicle or known anyone else that had that issue with their cars.
This was not some 8 year old high milage car either. I bought it when it was 4 years old and had 40k miles on it. I would definitely not buy a Nissan again after experiencing the quality of what they have in their parts bin.
I’m sure there are similarities between the two, but I’m not sure what they are exactly. It’s on a different platform and positioned significantly upmarket from the Leaf, though.
I’ve not had trouble out of it in the time I’ve had it (knock on wood) but I wouldn’t expect a lot to go wrong during the lease period on any new vehicle.
Yeah maybe Nissan targets the lease market and cuts cost around that. I do know they can be very nice when they are new. But I feel like EVs are still in more of a lease than buy territory right now as they get so much better with each generation.
My sister has the Kia minivan and is pretty happy with it.
Honda Accord. I've had two of them and really like them. They're comfortable and spacious, just a little nicer than a Civic. I also don't like big cars like SUVs, so the Accord being a sedan wins there for me.
I bought one recently, so...Civic Sport Touring hatchback. It's got power for its weight (3000lb approx), and the seats fold down so you can carry a decent amount of stuff in the back. It's also very comfortable and gets good gas mileage. (Officially, low to mid 30s, but I've scratched 40mpg with cruise control on the highway.)
Mine is a 1.5L turbo, but the latest models have a new hybrid power train that delivers even more power and fuel economy. I think around 50mpg and 200hp, up from 180 or so.
My prior car was a Fit, which sadly is no longer sold in North America. Similar weight, about half the power, but the form is more like a European hatch (like a Golf) instead of the fastback design, so there's more usable cargo space with the seats down. It's perfect for, say, a college student who has to move in and out of a dorm. Practical and fun car, especially if you want to Scandinavian Flick on snow lol.
Growing up in a snowy place, I've never felt the need for more than two drive wheels, but if I did I'd probably go Subaru. I learned to drive in an old (smaller than modern ones) Forester. And, speaking as another software engineer, driving a truck to work is just a waste. If I need one in a rare scenario, I can rent one and come out far ahead on fuel alone.
Civics are pretty nice little cars, but I do wish they were a bit shorter. Like everything else they’ve been subject to size creep, and so now a car that had previously been known for its small size is about as long as an SUV like a Mazda CX-5 or Nissan Ariya.
Not to add confusion to an already impressive list of candidates, but my partner got the 2022 RAV4 Hybird when it came out and my mom just got the 2025 RAV4 Prime in December. The Hybrid has been awesome. The AWD handle the snow really well - though not as well as an actual 4x4 - but enough so that we're confident heading up to Tahoe when it's snowing on the passes. No need for chains so far, nor have we been stopped by chain control.
As for storage, it's pretty good. We have done a few trips with 4 people and backpacking gear and things do get a little snug, but it's nothing crazy. My big complaint is that we had to put on an after market rear hitch that sits below the bumper and that things catchs on freaking everything. If we have the bike rack on it it is even worse. So if you want it, order it when you get the car or cut out an opening in the bumper.
Otherwise it's a great little car - well big little SUV - that consistently gets 36-42MPG. It's a comfortable ride, I love the heated steering wheel and seats. My mom's version even has heated seats in the back. All in all it's been a winner.
I was parking lot car shopping at Target yesterday, and the RAV4 did catch my eye. It looks like good medium-sized choice. I was briefly involved in the litigation for the unintended acceleration stuff in the late 00's, so I have a slight bias against Toyota. But honestly I think that kind of thing can happen with any of the manufacturers, and it's more about the reliability of specific models.
I'd give it a drive. Honestly, if we didn't already have one I think I'd be replacing my old limping car with one too. As is I want to vote with my wallet and chuck my money at a sedan to push the industry back to cars that are safer to bikes and pedestrians. But that's also probably a lost battle. My own gripe with Toyota is their excessive funding of anti-climate action. Buuut, they also make an unbelievably reliable car. My dad has a 2001 Tundra that has more than 300,000 miles on it. I have a 2005 Corolla with more than 200,000. They just don't die. I'm still wishing toyota would release a throwback Tacoma based on the 80s frame or bring over a few of their Kei truck models from Japan. God, that would be amazing. I rented one when I visited Japan in September and that things was incredible. The interior felt pretty roomy considering the bite sized size of the van and we got 70-80mpg with a standard ICE engine. That or Honda could release a new Element. Another day I'd die for.
I will say for folks that have suggested the Maverick, I see the appeal. I have a friend who just bought one and it's become the go to bike hauling vehicle for the neighborhood. We can throw 5 bikes in the back and all pack in the front. It's still small enough to not feel like one of these weird monter trucks, but roomy enough to be comfortable for 4 (and maybe near uncomfortable for 5) big guys to fit into a drive for a few hours.
Keis are such cool, practical little vehicles even if they aren’t safe by US road standards. If it weren't for import regulations I’d be tempted to try importing something like a Nissan/Mitsubishi Sakura which is an electric Kei. It’d be plenty for typical suburban use cases.
I hear you, I want one of these soooooo bad.
Didn’t they conclude it mostly came down to poorly fitted floor mats getting stuck under the pedal?
No, there were real design problems. I also worked on another case (not Toyota) and we produced video of a single fault in a pedal sensor pegging the throttle wide open even after the pedal was released, and that problem existed of at least two different models.
One side note for OP - check out Car complaints to cross reference if a make has consistent build issues or the maker has a bad history. Just remember that the most popular models will typically have the most complaints since they have the largest number of models out, so instead look at the qualitative data.
Bookmarked, thanks!
I think I’d lean towards a Mazda CX-70 or CX-90 plug-in hybrid (basically the same, the 90 has a 3rd row and the 70 has more cargo space). The plug in range is like 50-70 miles, which means it’s basically an EV for most day-to-day driving and becomes a hybrid with great mileage for longer road trips. It handles really nicely and the interior feels pretty luxurious, they’re approaching a fancier Toyota or the lower trim BMWs. Plus it’s a Toyota drive-train so parts are cheap and maintenance should hopefully not be too eye-watering.
Other options, the new Toyota Sequoia comes in a hybrid that gets great mileage. I test drove it and it’s extremely practical. It’s boring compared to the CX-70, which itself isn’t the most thrilling ride. But it’ll haul your kids and stuff and it’ll be reliable and cheap to maintain if that’s what you need.
I wish they had a hybrid Sienna or Honda Odyssey now because those minivans have all kinds of great family/dog bells and whistles. The Sienna has a small refrigerator and a built in vacuum cleaner! But it’s also boring to drive. And I live in a dense enough city that parking these big boys is a hassle.
On the more fun side, I’ve been looking at the new Honda Passport and Toyota 4Runner. The 4Runner comes as a hybrid, but the mileage is still like 19 mpg in the city. But they look cooler and are more fun to drive. But it’s definitely an aspiration thing for me to need stuff like 4WD and all this overlanding frippery.
Basically everything new is gonna end up being about $10-15k over your $30k price range though unfortunately.
That's the second rec for those, gotta go check it out.
I wanted to leave follow-up posts here since everyone gave me such great advice. Thanks again to everyone for taking the time.
The people I was referred to for repairing the frame on the old truck quoted me $2300 but when I went back to them, they reviewed it and wanted $3500 for the job. I was getting a weird vibe off the place in general. Around that time, I took a short road trip, and hitting potholes made me a little worried. I decided I didn't want the thought that the repair might not hold to be weighing on me for the rest of the time I owned the truck.
I did seriously consider the Mazda cx70 or cx90, but in the end the transition to an SUV didn't make much sense for us. I think we might consider this for when we replace my wife's car. And the rumor is there might be hybrid or fully electric ridgelines in 2026, so I could trade it in then.
When complaining about all the possibilities to a good friend, he said "just buy another Ridgeline". Because there were some other things going on in my life, and because the old truck's inspection was completely expired, I didn't have a ton of time to make a decision. I also wanted to get the deal done before the tariffs impact the price of used cars too much. So I ended up following his advice.
Narrowing the choice down to Ridgelines, I did a little research and found that the 2020 Ridgeline models get good ratings, and the 2024 and 2025 models get good ratings, but in between there are problems due to pandemic supply chain issues. I found a 2020 with 47,000 miles and purchased it for $29k. I had planned to negotiate this down about $1500 , but they did the 50,000 mile service and put new tires on it, so I decided that was a pretty good offset. I got $2k on the trade-in for the old one, which is a pretty good price given its condition, and it avoids the moral hazard of me selling it to an individual with the frame damage. The dealership beat USAA's rate of 5.6% at 5.14%.
I tacked on a 5-year comprehensive warranty from Honda for another $2.5k. It follows the manufacturer's warranty which runs to November.
I am really enjoying Android Auto and the backup camera. It rides really nice and has a nice sound system in it. It also has remote start, which will be nice in the winter, and push to start, which will be nice once I break the habit of getting my keys out every time I walk up to it. I think the forward collision warning and lane departure warnings will be useful.
It has a paint matched cap on the back which I'm not totally sold on. My dad always had them, and they are convenient for hauling things, but the visibility out the back is really poor. I might take it off and put a tonneau covered on instead, but I'm going to drive it for a while with the cap first.
That's a not an easy question for me. Unfortunately the criterion of having a car that doesn't constantly report telemetry back to the manufacturer seems to be more or less impossible to fulfill. I just want to purchase the thing and not have a contract with the manufacturer about what they can do with it. And even with a contract in place we've seen time and time again that this doesn't prevent the manufacturers from collectimg even more data than they should - VW being just the most recent example. Ideally I would simply like to remove any form of wireless connectivity from my prospective car. For navigation purposes I'm fine using my phone, thank you. But it seems manufacturers don't want to give me that choice.
Luckily I currently live in a big city at the moment, and public transport is reasonably usable around here, so I'm mostly fine without a car. Unfortunately I really don't know what I'm gonna do if I am ever forced to purchase one, beyond either hackily removing relevant chips or using the over 20 year old VW my dad owns. Said car is in a good state at the moment, but it is getting older and there are better choices in terms of environmental sustainability. :(
Our other car is an aging impreza, but hoping to just replace one this year. No pets. Occasional 20 minute commute + 15 minute trip to get my kid from school. Budget in the $25-30k range. Could potentially swing more, but would want it to be to get some specific benefit. Road trips are usually 5-6 hours, sometimes 8-9.
That budget is on the tight side. For both cars, or just the Ridgeline replacement? Any upward flexibility?
If you want to retain pickup truck flexibility, the Maverick will be the least expensive and have the best fuel economy, and you can get the hybrid with AWD. Other options in the segment would by a new Ridgeline, or the Hyundai Santa Cruz. If you go up a segment, there’s the Ranger and Chevy Colorado.
That's just for one, but agree, still tight. Maybe looking at used cars for that reason, or justifying going up a tier.
I've had this car for so long, I sort of stopped paying attention to other cars, so I'm really starting from scratch in terms of my sense of what's out there. As I mentioned elsewhere, I've been trying to pay more attention to cars in parking lots.
I grew up in Texas, so driving a truck is definitely A Thing in my head. But having driven the ridgeline (which is basically a pilot with a bed), I kind of have to admit to myself that I don't need one anymore.
I will likely test drive the Maverick and the new Ridgeline, maybe go to a Honda dealership and look at all of the options.
For me, it's pretty much anything Toyota / Scion. It's not really the price of the car that ends up costing you the money- it's the maintenance. Toyota pretty much is in the top 5 there for cars that simply don't end up at the shop very often at all- especially if you put in the minimum care to take care of them.