How to preserve a 9000 piece jigsaw puzzle?
I just completed this puzzle (although it's missing 1 piece, which I wrote to them to see if they can replace because the alternative would be to buy a 2nd copy and shift through 4500 pieces to find the one I need). I want to hang it on my wall!
Edit: Found the missing piece!!!
Right now it's on my living room floor (pencil for scale) on 9 pieces of poster board that I taped together. But, I am not sure if this is the best surface to permanently attach it to. Does anyone have any recommendation on how to glue/seal this & mount it?
I also want to apply some kind of protective coat in addition to just gluing it together/to something to prevent damage, so if the method to do that is different from the method to mount it I'm also interested in that.
Look up Mod Podge Puzzle Saver - it's a type of glue designed explicitly for this purpose. It'll do double duty as both the glue and the protective coat you're looking for.
What would you back it with?
I found some instructions on how to use Mod Podge Puzzle Saver and it seems it can be backless:
"Complete puzzle. Next, place puzzle design side-up on non-cling plastic wrap. Brush a medium coat of Mod Podge Puzzle Saver over the completed puzzle and let dry. Apply a second coat and allow to dry completely.
Once the puzzle has completely dried, flip the sealed puzzle over when completely dry and position it design side down on new piece of non-cling plastic wrap. Apply a medium coat of Puzzle Saver over the back of the puzzle and let dry.
Now sealed, the puzzle can be mounted to a display surface using Mod Podge Puzzle Saver. If desired, apply a couple light applications of Mod Podge Spray Clear Acrylic Sealer to seal puzzle pieces completely and remove any stickiness due to humidity."
My concern is this, though (copied from another comment below)
edit: this made me laugh given I just spent 2.5 months on this!
That's fair. Maybe you could get a swath of some sort of cloth/linen-like fabric to give it some strength without adding too much thickness?
Caveat: I'm no expert, nor am I particularly crafty, so hopefully someone more experienced comes into the thread.
I've used Mod Podge on 2000 piece puzzles before and it was strong enough to hang them using 3M Command strips, but 9000 is a lot bigger/heavier, so I think @RheingoldRiver is right to be concerned it won't be strong enough on its own. So I would definitely second your recommendation to use a liner of some sort to strengthen the puzzle for hanging.
Cloth/Linen would probably work fine for a liner, but could be bulky. So something like a silk, nylon, or polyester mesh fabric screen (like those used in silk screening) would probably be a lot stronger, and far lighter. And Googling around, it looks like you can get a pretty large/wide roll for $20 on amazon.
@RheingoldRiver you could glue the back to Kraft paper to help hold it together. It comes in different widths and thicknesses, from 40# is like a grocery bag, 80# is like a greeting card. Where you have a seam in the Kraft paper, I would overlap them a few inches.
You can probably use the Mod Podge as glue, but my favorite glue for paper and cardboard is Aleene's tacky glue. After you've sealed he front, I would flip the puzzle over, spread the glue, and apply the paper. You don't have a super long working time with tacky glue, so i would just unscrew the cap (on a big bottle), pour it out, and spread it with a 6" putty knife or something similar.
If you want to check the Kraft paper out in person, you can get it in some weights at the hardware store where it is sold as "builder's paper" for protecting floors, countertops, etc.
The Kraft per should stabilize the puzzle, but if you're going to hang it on the wall, you may want to consider how you're going to attach it to the wall. You might be better off attaching it to thin sheet of plywood or making a frame or the back to give it more rigid structure and some meat to put hanging hardware into.
thanks!! yes, I am very concerned about how to hang it to the wall, I have literally no idea how to approach this because most things I'm considering as backing sound like they could get a vertical tear through them at the site of the nail. I'm going to try a suggestion below to get it framed professionally first, but if those quotes are all like thousands of dollars, mounting it to a thin sheet of plywood sounds like a pretty good idea. I'd probably want to go the frame around the edge route, do you have a suggestion about how wide it should be? Like 1 inch sounds like probably not enough, a foot sounds maybe overkill, but I don't have any experience with anything like this.
Also, my idea if I don't get it framed & instead need to mount myself, has been to leave 4 puzzle pieces unglued a bit near the corners so I can drive nails through there and then replace the pieces after it's hanging up. Do you think this would work? Like would I be able to drive the nails all the way in so the pieces actually fit back? And it's ok to have the frame not extend out behind the puzzle? (For aesthetic reasons)
Don't drive a nail through your puzzle and wall. Go buy some 3M Command picture hanging strips. I've used them to mount Mod Podged puzzles and framed artwork before, and they work great.
The X-large ones are designed to hold up to 20lbs, so they shouldn't have any trouble with your 9000 piece puzzle. Just make sure to follow the application/mounting instructions on the back of the packaging to ensure the bond is strong.
My concern with uncovering the corners is that it would ruin the aesthetics because the edges of those pieces wouldn't be sealed the same way. Also, you'd be relying on perfectly aligning everything while holding this huge thing on the wall, hoping you have a stud in the right place or using drywall anchors. A lot of variables.
I think a french cleat is the way to go. You just need to get the wall piece level on the wall and the mating piece level on your picture, then you can lift it up and on. It's very secure.
I have two ideas for hanging this. The first would be a "floating look". A picture is worth 1000 words, so here's a picture, looking at the back of the puzzle: https://envs.sh/FT1.png
My second idea is a frame on the back of the puzzle, so that it fills the space between the puzzle and the wall. Picture: https://envs.sh/FTC.png
In either case, you could glue wood to the puzzle with construction adhesive.
woah, those pictures are amazing, thank you! The floating look option is the one I want aesthetically, no question. Do you think I would be able to have this region be a hole in the plywood? And if so how much surface of plywood should I have? Like if I got plywood that's 6" wide, 1/8th" thick, (width/length of puzzle - 4" - 6") long (so there's a 2" border between the plywood frame and the edge of the puzzle) would this work?
Or would I want a different layout for better integrity?
Also about the glue, I think I need something that's acid-free directly touching the puzzle. So it would be like: Back of puzzle - acid-free adhesive sheet layer - construction adhesive - plywood, would this work? And mod podge on the front for sealant / also to hold it together?
I think that should work. If you're going to make a frame on the back rather than a solid sheet, you could probably just use 1x6 lumber. So are like the first option, but with the frame inset from the edges. In that case, the corners don't matter so much and you can just do butt joints.
If it's a floating design, another difficulty will be lifting it from the front to put it on the wall. I think I would screw or glue a piece of cord to the top of the frame so you cab gift it from above, then tuck the cord behind the puzzle once it's on the wall so you can't see it, but you'll be able to use it to remove it later. Technically you could hang the puzzle from such a cord, but st this size I think the french cleat will be more secure.
Okay, this makes sense, thank you! I'm going to take some time to make some calls & think about whether I want to use this method or bringing it to a place that does custom framing, but it sounds like I definitely no matter what want to start with mod podging the front and then applying adhesive sheets to the back, so I will start with that process while I decide what to do next.
You can use the coating on the front for a first pass abd preservation then there's also these glue sheets that you can then apply to the back of the puzzle if youre able to flip it once its dried completely on the front. Im pretty sure ravensberger offers them on the website but shops should have them too.
hmm yeah maybe I could do the front in mod podge and the back with glue sheets. If I did a double layer that's offset by 1/2 sheet in each direction, that would probably be pretty sturdy.
I'd still like something more portable than a frame as the backing ideally, but this sounds like it could work for securing the puzzle to itself!
That's amazing, congratulations! For something of your size, when you get to the frame, I'd definitely stick to a plastic (plexiglass) cover over glass. It's a lot lighter and more shatter resistant, though take care when framing since it scuffs easier. Amazon says the dimensions are 54.33"L x 75.59"W, you'll want a bit more than that to account for the frame itself and not clip the puzzle. I think this is close enough to large poster size that you can find some standard frames rather than needing a custom job or DIY one.
Okay, I wasn't actually sure if I was going to put it in a frame or just glue/attach it to something and coat it. So you'd recommend attaching it just to itself without any backing, and then sticking it inside a frame?
Yeah I'd probably follow the glue instructions for something like mod podge (not sure if that requires its own backing or works just on the puzzle), then frame that. I haven't done puzzle framing though, just prints and originals.
It looks like mod podge itself doesn't require backing. However, I am unsure if I trust the strength of mod podge to hold the puzzle together on its own, because it's REALLY heavy, so the amount of force pulling down on the top row of pieces will be considerable if it's not adhered to something. If it were attached to backing, and I did it right, then in theory the backing material should take all that strain, not the puzzle pieces themselves / the sealant.
Putting it in a frame sounds like it would be better than just being on a wall, however I'm not sure it will get rid of that problem entirely?
You can reinforce the back with extra cardboard/poster board to help reinforce it and the frame will keep that clamped together. Larger frames will often have aluminum reinforcements at the corners of the frame that ought to help as well.
I recommend Karen Puzzles for this. She has a video about making your own piece if you're missing one, and others about how to hang a puzzle. Here's one on keeping a 24,000 piece puzzle.
The problem is the intersection between these two. She isn't planning to hang a 24k piece puzzle, and the puzzle she is hanging is a lot smaller. If this were just a 1000-piece puzzle, or even 3000 pieces, I wouldn't be this worried. But a 9k piece puzzle is something different, it's incredibly heavy & I really want it to last very long term.
If you don’t want to frame it, you could go the mod podge route then attach it to a large piece of foamcore.
is foamcore the same as poster board? that's actually what it's sitting on right now. My concern is that I'm not sure how durable this is, like eg would a nail pushed through it start to pull a vertical tear through the material as the puzzle weighs it down?
I am not in love with the idea of framing it, because ideally what I wanted to do was have this be glued in 4 separate pieces which are not mutually glued to each other, so that it's possible to disassemble slightly to move it in the future. But, so far framing sounds like the most secure way to hang it.
Foamcore is a thin layer of rigid but lightweight foam sandwiched between two sheets of paper. You can google to see pictures of it. The foam thickness is variable.
I used to work at a frame shop and here's my expert recommendation.
Start with any sort of acid free mod podge or equivalent. Note, it will hold the pieces together but is not suitable or long term vertical weight at that size. It only really holds together small 16x20 puzzles or smaller if you try to hang it.
Next, contact a local or chain frame shop (many craft stores have a dedicated frame shop) and find out what their maximum dimensions are for a process called dry mounting.
This process will use a vacuum seal and heat to adhere the back of the puzzle to a foam core board using either to sticky foam core, or regular foam core with a layer of plastic adhesive. The rolls of plastic adhesive always worked better!
Once mounted, you'll likely want to frame it. If you want to avoid glare, go with a museum grade glass. If that's not as important, use their acrylic. In any case, insist on spacers between the glazing and the puzzle to prevent moisture and mold.
Finally, you will almost certainly nded to get a custom frame. Go with your style, but avoid frames smaller than 2 inches wide. Definitely avoid metal frames unless the framer is skilled with mounting hardware to avoid bowing.
Finally, on price. Don't overspend and get quotes from multiple frame shops. Just be prepared with the exact dimensions of the completed puzzle and a picture of it.
Avoid Frames Unlimited at all costs. They were usually 3x more expensive than the shop I worked at and we constantly redid their work all the time!
A good frame job will last a lifetime.
Thank you!!!! I have a couple questions.
Foam core is rigid, but unless framed, will likely warp over time. The main benefit there is that it is lightweight on purpose so that it can be framed easily. Foam core on its own should not even be attempted to be hung, as it is a layered material that will separate from itself with too much moisture, weight, and time. A frame is likely the only thing that would prevent that. An alternative could be plywood or some other wooden backing. You would just have to glue the puzzle to it. This would be difficult, as sizing the wooden backing before gluing would be more challenging, since puzzles are rarely exactly the same dimensions all the way around.Definitely doable though.
Assuming you go with a frame, 2 inches is the minimum I recommend for glass and acrylic, due to the extra weight. In addition, frames themselves do bow over time with enough moisture, the thicker the frame, the better. You can go with a metal frame, but at the dimensions of your puzzle, if you have glass especially, I become concerned about structural integrity. Without glass, I would be less concerned.
It's been some time since I've seen frame prices, and of course every shop will be different, so take what I say with a grain of salt. Dry mounting to foam core should be no more than $80 USD at the highest end, unless prices have skyrocketed. I'd honestly expect close to $40, but my memory might be failing me. A cheap metal frame at those dimensions is probably about $100 probably a little bit more. Glass is the most expensive component unless you go with a fancier wooden frame, but if you go acrylic, you'll spend more than basic glass, but less than museum. (Side note, frames unlimited liked to do things like sell non-glare glass and put it directly against puzzles. Glass without spacers leads to moisture and mold damage. And once you add spacers to non-glare glass, it looks foggy. Don't do it! Go with acrylic with spacers instead if you want glass). A cheap metal frame, dry mounting, no glazing, very basic? Probably $150-200. Thicker wooden frame, glass or acrylic spacers, dry mounting? Maybe close to $300. It's important to note that the dimensions of your puzzle are what drive the costs.
Your idea of breaking the puzzle into sections will not work if you've already used mod podge. You should absolutely do this before transport unless you want to rebuild large sections in the shop. (I've seen it happen). Sometimes, people will bring in a puzzle just on plywood or something, but it's not been glued or anything, leading to disaster.
This is why I advise people to not bring in their puzzle for a quote. Any frame shop should be able to look at a reference photo and exact dimensions and give you an estimate without the puzzle being there physically. But they won't place the order until they have the puzzle in front of them to measure themselves. So get a bunch of quotes, then when you're committing to one of them, then think about transport.
On that topic, once you're ready to transport, I would recommend you mod podge the entire puzzle first, using stiff cardboard as the base under your puzzle. Do it in your garage if you have one so you can transport it horizontally. Once completely dry, add another layer of cardboard on top. Tape the two layers of cardboard together with the puzzle between them. This should be mostly secure for transport.
If you or your friends and family don't have a vehicle wide enough for it, you could consider test driving a large SUV from a car dealer, drive it home, and drive back to the frame shop for drop off of the puzzle.
They should be able to store the puzzle flat in the meantime, and as long as they cover it overnight with plastic, you should feel safe for them to store it.
When it's time for pickup, go test drive a different SUV 😂
OH, and don't forget, always use two people to transport it. Keeping it flat as much as possible. It should be able to handle some slopes when mod podged and sandwiched between cardboard, just don't store it vertically like that.
Also, make sure the mod podged puzzle is completely dry before putting the top layer of cardboard on, or you'll have to remove cardboard specks from your puzzle later.
Hi! Okay so I made a bunch of phone calls, and I'm not super happy with what I've heard so far, so I'd like to get your advice.
There is one more frame shop in the area that I can try contacting, so I'm going to call them too, but I wanted to get your suggestion of what to do from here. I would really like it not to have any acrylic in front of it, so there's not so much glare; do you think it's practical to glue it to gatorboard and then have it framed and hung?
Oh my word, that's ridiculous. Did Michael's say why they wouldn't do it?
Also, I just sent you a DM!
I've done mod podge then more mod podge to glue it to a pressboard backing. Been hanging on my office wall for a decade now.
I don't really have anything to add other than congrats! I was originally going to 'homemake' preserve and frame my puzzle then decided I'd rather get a proper place to frame and do it as I would be bound to stuff it up! 😐 Totally understand its a lot of $ to do as well! My 'justification' for the splurge was that it took me so long to do the one I wanted framed and I wanted something nice at the end so took it to someone who knew what they were doing! 😅
Maybe next I'll try a 'self glue and framing' adventure with a smaller puzzle to see how it all goes!? 😅 The next one I have on the go will likely also be one I take to a proper framer place though as again I'd likely muck something up! 🙄
Just curious: why would you permanently glue this magnificent jigsaw puzzle?
This is something I never could understand the appel of it, since from my perspective it completely removes the interactive and fun part of it of redoing it over and over again; basically crippling its reason of existence.
(I am not trying to say your objectively wrong for doing it that way, there are plenty of people who glue their puzzles; I just want to understand and comprehend your point of view)
Ah, so you bought it not because it was a jigsaw puzzle, but because you wanted a wall decoration with jigsaw aesthetic.
Actually there's a 4th reason that I didn't think about before, but just to add, some of the pieces are a bit damaged (label peeling slightly or knob a bit mashed) (I expected this based on customer reviews of the puzzle). I would not want to risk further damage by disassembling & dumping into a box again, because that might render a couple pieces totally ruined instead of just a bit damaged for next solve. Would be tragic to redo this puzzle & see it's no longer in good condition.
Thanks for the in depth explanation that was quite enjoyable to read.
Hope the other comments helped you to decide on a process :)
I'd say 80% I wanted a jigsaw puzzle, 20% I wanted a wall decoration with jigsaw aesthetic. I'm not sure I would've done this particular puzzle if hanging it afterwards wasn't an option, but I did greatly enjoy the process of solving it too (no way I could've pushed through it if I wasn't having fun haha)
I do a LOT of jigsaw puzzles, but usually relatively low piece counts (50-500) with very challenging cuts - my favorite are Stave teaser puzzles, which I borrow through a lending library for the price of a yearly subscription + $5 shipping/puzzle. Doing a 9000 piece puzzle with a boring piece cut is REALLY not my typical preference, but the goal of hanging it up made me enjoy it a lot.
omg ABSOLUTELY NOT haha
but I forgot to edit this, I actually found the piece!!! It was waay underneath the puzzle, between the posterboard and the floor haha. I had checked the edges of the posterboard already before posting this, thinking this was what had happened, but not far enough!