Advice request: potentially adopting a cat
My wife and I are potentially adopting a cat.
The cat is an adult, not sure the exact age (but will see if that’s known when we get it).
The long story short is, a close friend had 3 cats (I think strays as kittens but not 100% sure, I think they were acquired at different times - they do not appear to be related to each other), but due to the current political state of the US ended up moving abroad on a visa for this past year, and is planning on staying away for longer. Initially, the cats were staying with another friend but that has recently fallen through (I think they did not expect the 3 cats to be as much to handle as they are, they keep getting onto counters, eating food that is left out/left unattended, and scratching furniture, and at this point they’re getting fed up with them), and we were asked if we could take any of them
We have met the cats quite a few times, and they do seem friendly towards us.
My wife seems very allergic to one of them, but only mildly allergic or significantly less allergic to the other two.
We currently live in an apartment that does allow pets, but this would be the first time either of us have owned a cat, so unfortunately I think we could only take one of them.
I’m thinking we could probably use some advice on things to consider and best practices.
Preliminary research has said to get 1 or 2 litter boxes, feed at regular times, running water bowls are preferred, and get lidded trash cans. We plan on keeping the cat on the same food and litter type, at least initially. I know there are other things, and we will take the cat for a check-up and establish a vet. Due to my wife’s allergies, we are planning on keeping the cat out of the bedroom and running an air purifier there, and hopefully visiting an allergist before we adopt the cat if time permits.
But I’m wondering what others’ experiences have been with a cat in an apartment and what advice you may have? (How to keep them off of counters? Keep them from getting bored while at work or while working from home?)
That might work for an entire day, don't expect to be able to keep the cat out of any space really. Cats are three-dimensional and will get everywhere. On tables, chairs, desks, bookshelves, counters, etc. Some cats are more or less adventurous than other cats, and they'll have preferences (for example, my cat was not big into kitchen counters, but loved my desk), but basically every surface WILL become a cat surface.
It's also entirely possible to get a respectful cat who keeps off of surfaces, and there's nothing the human has done to make it this way, cat just is.
Yeah, my late friend Brodie was like that. The only surface he insisted on was laps and his cat tower. Some cats just want to vibe and let vibe.
I just close my door when I sleep, my cat cried for a few days but I just turned my white noise machine up and slept. Now she's used to it and I can actually sleep through the night.
This is the way. If you don't set boundaries, they're going to take what they want and pitch a fit until you give it to them. Giving in once means they know that you'll give in after they cry long enough. It's important to give a pet all appropriate care, but that doesn't mean being a doormat.
Contrariwise to another poster, keep in mind that cats are trainable. They like people, and want to get along with their housemates when they can. So if you explain the ground rules of the house to the cat through your own behaviour and expectations, they will generally adjust over time.
They aren't dogs, though, so the training approach is different. It helps to build a social alliance with the cat first, so that the cat can establish that everyone in the house is on the same team. And you may not win every time.
For example, all of our cats bar one have understood that table tops and counters are 100% off limits, and didn't/do not climb on them.
The sole exception understood that table tops and counters were off limits as long as there was a human in the room... but that if the room did not contain a human, every surface was fair game. He could not be persuaded otherwise. But as I said, he was the exception!
Scratching furniture is a tricky habit to break (if you can, pick a cat that doesn't already have the habit); make sure that you provide lots of alternative approved scratching surfaces, like big sturdy cat poles, coarse carpeting, or those shreddable cardboard cat scratchers.
Show the cat what those surfaces are for by using them yourself, with your fingernails, while showing great and sincere enjoyment. (Don't try to force the cat's paws onto the surfaces, that's just an inexplicable punishment to a cat.) But they do watch to see what you are enjoying!
Boredom is rarely a problem; cats are active morning and evening but sleep during the day and for most of the nighttime, and that fits well with when humans have a bit of time to interact with them. Most cats sleep a lot, and many will be happy to snooze while you work.
That said, over time you will accumulate toys.
One of ours loves woollen clothes dryer balls over all other toys, another liked feathers, and one was a techno cat and lived for chasing red laser dots.
This is the understanding for both of our cats. They quickly figured out that we will consistently enforce them to be off the counter if we see them on it. However, if we aren't around then we'll find their paw prints all over the countertop from the night before. They will test their boundaries though. If there was something that we prevented them from doing in the past, they will very cautiously toe the line. They'll sit right within reaching distance of the countertop. They know this is fine, but then they will reach out and try to climb on to it with us noticing, hoping we won't stop them. They key in this scenario is that you must stop them every time. A simple "HEY, GET OFF" is usually enough, as they know they crossed the line.
And this brings me to my biggest point with cat ownership: Consistency. You must enforce your rules the same way (as much as reasonably possible). Feed at relatively the same times (auto feeders can help with this, but your cat also will help by reminding you they are hungry), attention at roughly the same times, and anything else you do with them, do at a consistent time. They are creatures of habit, so they will help you with your routine. If you go to bed at the same time, the one time you stay up late, they will come and let you know that you aren't doing what you expect them to do and you should go to bed instead.
My sister had a cat who always gave off that "I am the baddest MFer on the block" vibe. The cat was not allowed in the kitchen, so she would stand at the threshold while my sister was cooking and put her paw over the line into the kitchen, just to make the point. Cracked me up.
An extra tip from me about scratching, giving them a treat when they scratch the post (or whatever else) also helps.
It might have a secondary effect, they will scratch the post and meow at you and expect a treat. (Meaning what they actually want sometimes is the treat, not the scratching itself). This can be broken later by giving them less treats as time goes on, but it’s up to you if you want to pamper them or not.
The important thing is, yell when they scratch something off limits, praise and pamper them when they scratch something they can.
This worked for my two cats, but I trained them since they were little. Might be harder for adult cats.
If it doesn’t work, there are some plastic sheets that you can stick/screw to the sofa. They tend to be small and you just need to place them in a few spots. The cats absolutely hate those things, and they won’t scratch the sofa
Cats are weird and you might get one that absolutely loves plastic sheets. Alternatives I've encountered: foil, parchment paper, polyester blanket. Just have to keep experimenting if one doesn't work.
FWIW, we had a rescue cat we adopted at over a year old. He had been literally kept in a box and had health and behaviour issues as a result.
However once he realised that 1) humans wanted to help not harm, and 2) he could influence the world around him (he had no sense of personal autonomy initially - literally everything was a mysterious act of god to him) he became as trainable as any other cat.
So it can be done, even with adult(ish) cats. These days he is conversational, affectionate, fastidious with his litter tray, and a pleasure to share a house with.
Yelling (or clapping hands) at bad behaviour/rewarding good behaviour really does work if it's done kindly and consistently.
I have lived with many cats over the years and agree they are trainable. Some are more resistant than others. I find a squirt bottle to ensure countertop compliance has worked well for me. I know they go up there sometimes when we aren't present, but we also never leave anything enticing for them, so it's a wasted cause. They will figure it out eventually.
For scratching, the best thing you can do it offer variety close to the object you don't want to be scratched, a couch, for example. A tall scratching post near each corner or a long cardboard scratcher are good options generally. Importantly, if you see them scratch an object you don't want them to scratch, put an alternative at or near that location instead. The alternative needs to fit with their scratching desire. A tall, strong post allows a cat to stretch and scratch, so a small, flimsy post or horizontal scratcher might not apply there. Put something appropriate and I've found the cat will use that and not the leather couch. :)
Tell that to my cat that pushes scratchers out of the way to access the couch
There's a lot of good advice in the other comments, but we've lived with cats for many years, and my observation is that you may not want to adopt a single cat from a clowder that's lived together since kittenhood. Contrary to popular belief, cats do form social bonds with each other.
You should probably spend some time watching the three cats - do they groom one another, sleep curled together, engage in chase games or share a toy when playing? If so, separating those cats is going to be traumatic and challenging. We've had cats go into deep depressions (withdrawal, loss of appetite and grooming, cessation of litter box use, illness) or start acting out (loud calling, scratching at doors and furniture, sudden aggression) on separation or death of a "bonded" partner cat.
If one of the cats you're thinking of adopting is more solitary, sleeping and playing alone most of the time, or bullied by the larger cats and defensive of its territory, that's the cat who'll be happiest to have its own space and most likely to adapt well to its new home.
Alternatively, if two of the three are very obviously bonded to each other, consider adopting the pair. They'll adapt more easily to an unfamiliar home, be able to keep each other entertained and exercised when you can't drop everything to devote time to them, and generally behave better. The more social cats are with each other, the more likely they are to recognize their humans as extensions of their family.
Practical details:
The correct number of litter boxes for N cats is N + 1. They like alternatives, and prefer not to urinate/defecate in the same place if you can't clean more than once daily. There are aesthetic solutions if your apartment doesn't have out of the way places to hide a litter box. Febreze or other odor-control bathroom pucks keep unwanted aromas under control.
These detachable window shelves are perfect for apartments - paintable/stainable, sturdy enough that they're stable and the cat won't be anxious about using them, not damaging to the window ledge or wall, and with a washable cover.
High perches and safe places... In a state of nature, cats are in the middle of the food chain. They need to reach high places where they can observe while feeling safe from ground predators. Provide a cat tree with perches near ceiling height (maybe near a living room window where the cat can see outside or watch the humans by choice), and/or climbing paths to the top of bookcases and cabinets. A cat cubby in the back of an accessible closet is helpful too, as a hiding place from unwanted noisy visitors.
If your cat will be a solitary and can't sleep with you, get them a cuddly donut bed and put it in a sheltered spot.
Training a cat: They generally respond poorly to negative reinforcement. That whole "middle of the of food chain" thing means that fear and distress will cause them to run away and distrust you instead of learning what you want them to. No water spray bottles, no yelling or swatting. You can get a lot more mileage out of strategically applied treats, routines, and careful reinforcement of the behaviour you want, e.g. the food bowl is the only source of food, food only happens at specific times, coming when called by name gets a treat, the vet means Churu (very special treat), etc. Cat gets on the table or counter, pick them up and set them gently on the floor, as many times as it takes. Scratches furniture, pick them up and set them by the scratcher, scratch a couple of times with fingernails, leave treats and catnip at the scratcher, repeat as needed. (One of our cats learned to do these things for attention, and we've now learned to lavish her with attention before she acts out. Training can be a two-way street. 🤷♀️)
Allergies: Spouse is moderately allergic, which is the only reason we looked for a specific breed when adopting our rescues. The amount of allergen in cat saliva and dander varies - some breeds are lower allergenicity, and there's some evidence that cats with lighter coat colors tend to produce less allergen than cats with darker coat colors. It's not guaranteed, but most cat-allergic people develop some tolerance with exposure, and spouse takes daily antihistamines for other allergies anyway. He's been fine with our pair.
Diet: Make any changes slowly, by mixing a small amount of new food with existing and gradually increasing over the course of a week or more. Cats can have allergies, too, so watch for increased vomiting, diarrhea, or scratching. Indoor cats should get indoor-formulated food, plus a wheatgrass planting to chomp on. This will protect other houseplants if you have them. [If you do have houseplants, check for pet safety!] Most health food or grocery stores sell wheatgrass/oatgrass in small planters for a modest cost, or you can grow your own. Wet food, though expensive, is preferable to dry (we feed about 50% of calories from each). Dry foods have higher carbohydrate content and calorie density, and aren't as satiating, which contributes to obesity in more sedentary indoor cats. Obesity is even more dangerous to cats than humans, quickly causing diabetes and liver/kidney damage. Do not get raw/uncooked cat foods, especially in the U.S. where Salmonella and Listeria are pervasive in the food supply.
I agree with this advice the most. I also wanted to give another vote for possibly adopting two cats if they're bonded.
My brother had mild allergies to cats and we had two at some point and it worked out. Like you've planned, keep them out of the bedroom. But yes, I understand that allergies come in various degrees.
Everyone else has given all the good advice so I'll just mention some mundane thing.
You probably might need to take into account that surfaces in your home might need to be cleaned more often than before. Cats get everywhere. So they can track dust from some hidden area on another surface that's usually untouched. I only say this because of the allergies.
Also, toys wise, cats can get bored playing with the same toy over and over again. So once you figure out what type of toy they like, you'd need a variety.
However, if money is an issue, what I do is that I cycle through the toys. Once they get bored of a toy, I stow it away and let them play with a new one. Then they get bored with that, I bring out the old one and they find new enjoyment in that.
Well, I cycle between a few, so it takes a while before it cycles to an old one again. It seems to work for my cat. But as we all know, all cats are different.
I've also found more fun/satisfaction in making my own toy for the cat. I don't mean making a fancy thing. Sometimes I crumple some paper and throw that around and it's a decent toy. Once they get bored of that, I attach a string to it and it's a new toy. The fun is in figuring out what the cat responds to. I do this often enough that my cat will patiently watch me meddle with a toy before throwing or waving it around. It's very cute.
I also have a routine where I do an activity with my cat for 15 minutes and then feed her wet food after. It helps with the whole I've hunted and now I eat.
I do that twice a day. She also gets two 15 minute walks a day (leashed).
For extra fun, hide your cat toys in a bag of mixed catnip, silvervine, and valerian root* (Meowy Jane's is a good source). When your cat gets bored with the current toys, pull out the scented ones and they'll have a blast again.
*Not all cats respond to catnip, but that mix covers the happiness needs of every cat I've ever seen exposed to it. It's good for scenting designated scratching posts/scratchers as well.
Treat puzzles are another great way to keep a cat entertained; simplest is a box with mouse-sized round hole cutouts where the cat can use their hunting instincts to winkle out the treats with a paw. However, one of our pair is a topology wizard who figured out that turning the box over and over releases the treats... YMMV.
And then some of them will drag the same toy with all its feathers plucked out, run over multiple times onto the bed and howl at you to demonstrate their hunting prowess.
And then play with a stray piece of cardboard or the ring off a milk gallon for an hour 乁( •_• )ㄏ
Cats.
Cat games:
Hide-and-stalk:
Cats are ambush predators and don't do as well with long chases of a feather on a string. A blanket draped over a chair or footstool makes a perfect hunting blind as far as an indoor cat is concerned. Make a feather toy or laser dot act like a wounded bird or small mammal (short hops, erratic skitters), and the cat will be ecstatic to leap out of hiding and chase it. After a little bit of tug-of-war, let the cat "kill" and "eat" its prey. (Laser pointers can be frustrating to the cat if the chase doesn't end with something fun to chew on or a treat).
Fetch:
Yes, there are cats that like to play fetch, especially when they're trained with a treat reward for bringing a milk jug ring or toy back to you. You can eventually replace the treat with praise and petting.
Cat TV:
Some cats are content to watch birds, fish, or small mammals on screen. You'd think they'd get frustrated by the lack of smells and interaction, but there's no predicting what they'll find engaging. Our pair will watch nature documentaries with us, including running away from images of wild canines. The younger male cat will investigate the back of the TV panel to see if he can get into the picture.
Shoulder-surfing:
Again, not every cat enjoys this, and it's best if their nails are trimmed or they're very careful. But one of our cat's favorite activities is shoulder-riding - up and down stairs, perching to observe weird human stuff (especially in the kitchen), having an elevation to jump to higher perches from...
Leash walking:
Advanced activity, best started with a kitten. First you have to get the cat to tolerate wearing a harness, second is avoiding panic when they're in the Big Room. Very gradual exposure, learning to heel, tolerating attention from strange humans, not tangling the leash in underbrush... it's a long journey.
Grooming:
One of our cats loves to play with the slicker brush, rubbing her face against the bristles and then letting us groom her for half an hour or more. Also helps keep shed hair to a minimum around the house. The other cat is a little too sensitive to tolerate being brushed for long.
I don’t think the cats are bonded, I believe they were acquired at different times but that is something we will ask about/keep in mind.
They don’t seem to get along all that well, they more seem to “tolerate” each other. There’s a large multi-tiered cat tree but only one of them is ever in it at a time, and they rarely hang out in the same room as each other unless they are getting pets or being played with.
As a counter-example to @RheingoldRiver's comment on your bedroom plans, I have lived with various cats for 20 years and the bedroom has always been off limits for them. They can only visit the room if we explicitly invite them in. When they do, it always seems like an exciting adventure for them.
This of course becomes more challenging if your cat learns to open doors. Luckily, ours never have. And you also need to consider the size of your house, if enough space remains for them to roam with one room (or more) off limits.
Ours have also learnt that kitchen counters are not available for them, but all other counters are fair game. My experience is similar to @NeonBright's: cats are good learners if there is a bond between you. Some voice commands (well, requests) are also handy to have. For instance, all of our cats have learnt that a gentle "out out" means that they need to exit whatever room you are in. It is handy if you need the room empty for whatever reason. For instance, if you work from home and need to clear a room before an online meeting.
Others have mentioned toys, and playtime is important, even with older cats. Especially if you end up with just one cat, and especially especially if that cat has always lived with other cats to play with. In addition to making sure that they always have access to toys, we play with ours every morning while having our coffees.
When you buy toys, don't throw away the boxes and wrappers they come in. Cats often find those more interesting than the human designed toys. Which sometimes begs the question why even buy toys for them if they are happy with just a plastic wrap. (The answer: you might prefer looking at cute soft toys rather than pieces of plastic and cardboard littered all over your house.)
Often it's also a matter of agency and ownership: if our cats discover a toy on their own (whether it's some random thing we have dropped by mistake, or some new "actual" toy that we have hidden for them to find), it becomes a favourite for a while. Because they found it. If I just give them a toy, it's more of a hit-and-miss situation. Just think of cats as eternal teenagers who don't want adults to tell them what to do and like but are often happy to engage with the same things on their own terms.
Also, try to rotate toys to keep things fresh. Bonus points if you can store "resting" toys outside of your apartment, where they can acquire some new and exciting smells.
We have never had issues with cats scratching furniture, apart from one poor Ikea storage cube that our current male cat claimed and which we have accepted is now his. I suppose it's debatable if cheap Ikea stuff always counts as furniture, anyway. We have plenty of scratch posts, scratch plates and cardboard scratchers available for them. I would think that if you can find a scratcher that the cat likes to use, your furniture will be safe. But you need to give them alternatives and find out what they like. Our two cats have completely different preferences: one likes extra tall posts (and the Ikea cube), the other only uses horizontal cardboard scratchers.
A good trash can system for poo makes things much better. We use LitterLocker (I think LitterGenie in some other countries) and it's a great system. The official bags are costlier than they should be, but you can find cheap alternatives.
For litter, definitely start with the same litter than the cat has been using until now, as change is difficult for them. But down the line, consider trying wood pellets instead of clay or silicon, if that's not what the cat is already using. We switched to wood fairly recently and it's been amazing. No smells, easier to clean, cheaper, and I would at least like to think that it's a little more ecological as well. But it totally depends on the cat and whether they accept it.
I must say that I would be a little worried about your wife's allergy. It's not fun for anyone if she is constantly reacting to the cat. She might end up avoiding or pushing away the cat without even realising it. Definitely try to talk to an allergist if it's an option.
And finally, be patient. It can take months for strong bonds to form. Let the cat take its time to adjust, as its entire life will be turned upside down when it moves in. Also keep in mind that, especially with an adult cat, there can be a lot of history and experiences that you are not aware of and which can cause what to you may seem irrational behaviour, but for the cat is logical. Try to learn those triggers and reactions and take them into consideration.
To give an example, our male cat was absolutely terrified of blankets, sheets and even dresses when he moved in. I suspect that there was some event in his kittenhood that left a mental scar. He was a stray, so maybe he was caught with a blanket or a net. I don't know. He's been with us for a year now and it's getting better, to a point where he's still giving us a suspicious eye whenever we (ever so gently) pick up a throw blanket, but he no longer panics and runs out of the room. Just the other day, he even dug himself under a throw blanket to sleep, the first time I've ever seen him do that.
Here are some tips in no specific order...
When you take the cat home for the first time, place them into the litter box right away and leave the area to give them some space alone. If the litter box is inside a room with a door, always make sure this door stays open.
Making direct eye contact with a cat for a prolongued time is usually interpreted as a threat. Instead make it a habit to close your eyes and turn your head sideways. This shows the cat that you trust them and feel comfortable when they are around you. Basically, you are showing to your cat that you are letting your guard down around them. The cats will eventually do the same thing for you.
When a cat lays down in front of you and spreads their legs to show their bellies, don't touch the belly! The cat showed you that they trust you and touching their vulnerable parts would be a betrayal of this trust. Instead slightly pet their forehead/head/neck area. Of course, every cat is different and some cats got accustomed to their belly being touched. So this may not apply to all cats. But still, it's a good idea to start slow and pet their heads first.
As others have pointed out, taking two cats instead of just one would be preferable, especially if the cat is not allowed to go outside. But I also think it's OK to have just one cat so long as they are not constantly left alone at home (especially in the beginning).
Toys and cat trees for keeping them busy, though (especially adult) cats often will sleep during the day and be active at dawn/dusk.
If the cat seems interested in getting on the counter put some foil on it, and that usually stops the urge as they don't like the feel under their paws.
Food and water wise every cat is different, same food is good to start but the lower carb/higher protein you can get for a cat the better (and wet food is sadly the best option). I have one cat who likes a fountain, one who won't touch it and one who hasn't tried because I don't have one anymore. So ymmv. Making sure water is clean helps but some cats drink fine and others need more moisture via their food (see above)
I can't speak to the allergies.
Lots of scratching pads and posts, having them protects your furniture most of the time.
I've had a bunch of apartment cats. They do fine as long as you play with them a lot, and I recommend a window ledge or some place they can watch outside for more entertainment.
Thanks! I know right now they’re on mostly dry food but get wet food every 3 days as a “bonus” dinner so we’ll probably just keep doing that.
Good note about the water, we may hold off on a fountain then if she seems to drink OK out of a bowl.
Pretty much everything depends on the cat, you've got the basics down as a starting point and if the cat doesn't do what you expect, then ask questions!
Even though @RheingoldRiver is right that cats are basically liquids who can teleport, some cats don't get up on counters. Some go looking for people food and will find anything you leave out. Some won't eat food or treats that are too much like real food.
Some will kill any mice or crickets that get into your place. Some will do nothing about it, or be very bad hunters.
One last thing I haven't seen mentioned yet: cats' personalities, likes dislikes will change over time. When adopting one, whatever trait you love or hate about them may not be forever. As they age, as circumstances change, and new hobbies are acquired......we can't know. So make sure not to take it personally if they are snuggly now, but later no longer even sit on lap. Just keep encouraging and letting them choose and they might again one day years in the future. If they're shy now or digs in garbage or hisses, they might also become not that way, over time with love and trust. Or not. Even their personalities are liquid.
Also, again, cats are all different. When buying a new toy or treat, think cheaper/trial/small portion /refundable to start. Eg, my girl hates churu, which is usually considered an exceptionally desired treat. Won't even eat food from the dish where a little bit was smeared on on one spot. Just despises it.
A friend's boy loves kibble because they're on natural raw meat diet. Kibble is delicious ultra processed treat.
My partner and I have 2 cats, we got them during COVID and they kept us sane. Lovable little assholes.
Allergies: this is different for every person so how well this will or won't work I'm not sure, but here are some ideas (that I am currently using).
Use a Corsi-Rosenthal box as an air filter - it's cheap and will scrub WAY more volume of air than pretty much anything else. Filters are standard furnace filters so you have huge variety of choice (get 3M) and no lock-in on filters from the air purifier manufacturer.
Unless you already vacuum on a regular basis (or would have issue with the sound of one) I advise getting a robot vacuum. Have it run every day, or every other day. It will get all those bits of cat litter you'll otherwise be stepping on (ouch unless you have carpet, then less ouch and more PITA to clean) and will help keep the allergen density lower. You'll never be able to have zero allergen, it's strictly a matter of how low you can keep the levels.
Trash with lids: yes.
We use just one litterbox and that has been fine for us. It is very large though.
My experience is that any automated toy won't hold interest for long, but one of our cats is a genius and KNOWS it's just going through a programmed routine.
If you plan on putting up a tree for the holidays, there will probably be a cat in it at some point. Between the lights, smell, and cat toys hanging off of it, it’s irresistible to mine. I got some of these anchor things to keep ornaments in the tree, it’s worked very well. I trust them enough that I’ll even trust glass ornaments to them, the cats can bat away and they’ll stay put. Also make sure your tree stand is rock solid.
I had one climber and two "ignores the whole thing" cats last year. This year with the new kitten I think I'll probably have the same.
Worth trying just the tree without decor first.
I have found that with long-haired cats I am naturally mildly allergic, but within a couple of weeks of cohabitation my body adjusts. I grew up with multiple long-haired cats and sometimes I would come back home after a few weeks away and would sneeze in the presence of the animals. But I've always managed to tolerate their dander after a bit of time. This makes me wonder how many people think they are completely allergic to cats but could actually have one after a brief period of discomfort.
Anyone have suggestions of specific litter box brands they use/like?
Currently the cat is used to top-entry litter-boxes, and I’m not that worried about automated cleaning since it’s just one cat and I’m already planning on scooping daily.
Just looking for recommendations on litter boxes that hopefully don’t result in lots of tracking of litter & might be OK to have on a carpeted floor, and maybe can keep smells down, since it will likely be in our living room. (We’re planning on also having one in the nearby bathroom that we don’t use all that much, with a door-stop to keep the door open so the cat has access to it at all times).
I'd recommend a litter mat of some sort under/around the box. They catch the litter that's tracked out. Once again every cat is different, so it may depend on how much they kick or track out with them. Top entry works great as long as the cat will use it.
I don't use the crystal litter, just the regular clumping scoopable and it keeps the tracked litter down a lot. (I also don't prefer liners because I think they get torn up by my cats who do a lot of "arranging" the litter)
But litter boxes I just buy at the store and don't really have a favorite. Something somewhat deep is all I can say.
At my house, we use crystal cat litter and it works fairly well. I think there's always going to some tracking, but we just vacuum or sweep up around the litter boxes when needed. I'd also suggest buying a box of litter box liners. Even with daily scooping, you'll want to change the litter regularly and it's a lot easier to do that when you can just lift it all out by the liner and toss it.
I use this Catit jumbo litterbox. I feel it's important to give a cat a lot of space to do their business, smaller boxes are a pain. I've had varied success on getting cats to use it with the hood fully enclosed (one cat would just do business right outside the box if it was closed), but you can open the hood and it's still plenty spacious while somewhat able to contain any tracked litter. Highly recommend a litter mat as well to help trap any further when they eventually launch themselves out of the litterbox at the speed of sound.
I got one of these furniture-type cat litter box enclosures a few years ago when it was substantially cheaper. It's in a living room area and not too conspicuous. A folded litter mat in the opening prevents most litter from tracking outside the box, and a Febreze air freshener inside keeps odors from seeping out. I use Dr. Elsey's clumping litter, which is easy to scoop and also helps with odor control.
The larger of my cats really likes the extra headroom, while the smaller cat prefers the two top-entry litterboxes.