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    1. My hands-on experience with the Gun4IR

      Note: This is NOT a sponsored post. I'm just a happy customer. Background When the G'AIM'E Kickstarter was announced, I got the itch to play light gun games again. I grew up playing Time Crisis on...

      Note: This is NOT a sponsored post. I'm just a happy customer.


      Background

      When the G'AIM'E Kickstarter was announced, I got the itch to play light gun games again. I grew up playing Time Crisis on my PSX, stepping on a controller plugged into port 2 which acted as a makeshift pedal so I could mimic the arcade experience. A local pizza place near me had an Area 51 machine that I could play for a quarter, and over time I memorized the enemy layouts for that game so that I could play further and further on one coin.

      There are a variety of modern light gun models available now, though all of them are at the hobbyist/tinkerer level. There isn't one that "just works" smoothly and easily.

      The most well known is the Sinden, which achieves calibration on games by setting up a white border around the game on the screen. This allows the gun to establish its position within that border and "know" where it's shooting.

      Unfortunately, when I looked into the Sinden, it seemed like reviews were very mixed, with many mentioning that the border can be kind of a mess to get working. Apparently it can require a lot of legwork and messing around with settings and external programs and whatnot.

      After searching around for alternatives, I landed upon a different line of modern light gun and decided to, well, pull the trigger.


      Gun4IR Intro

      Gun4IR on its own isn't a standalone product so much as it is a framework for making a modern light gun. You can buy the individual components and put them all together in a gun casing, making a functional light gun of your choosing. For example, see the User Guide which goes into detail about which boards you'll need, pin guides, etc. People have made them in Nerf cases and 3D printed ones.

      Now, if I'm going to ding the Sinden for requiring too much tinkering, surely soldering wires onto PCBs is a step in the wrong direction?

      That's absolutely correct! The good news is that you can sidestep all of this. Gun4IR has some official pre-build sellers, meaning you can buy an already made gun -- no soldering needed! Their site sells builds for the UK, while, RPEG Electronics is their official pre-build seller for the US.

      From RPEG, I picked up a pre-built Gun4IR setup in a Guncon 2 housing.


      Gun4IR Basics

      As is implied by the name, Gun4IR uses 4 different IR clusters for calibration. You can buy a pack of LED sensors that plug into the USB port of your TV. You stick these, facing out, to the midpoint of the top, bottom, left, and right of your TV. The LEDs are black and their light can't be seen with the naked eye but can with a camera (you can check to make sure they're working with your phone).

      The gun comes with calibration software that gives you lines on your TV to show the mount points for the LEDs, check how the gun is seeing the sensors, line up shots, etc.

      I'm happy to report that, once calibrated, my gun is VERY accurate. I was honestly expecting a bit of jank, but it's genuinely spot on. There's a small bit of jitter that's noticeable when you have a crosshair on (some of that also might be coming from my unstable hands), but when you're playing a game without a crosshair, it's not enough to make you miss shots. The shots I've missed have been because I'm, well, bad at videogames.


      Games

      Because I wasn't wanting to tinker, I found a big download pack that promised me a pre-configured set of ROMs and emulators that were turnkey and compatible with Gun4IR. I spent days downloading all the individual parts from one of those sketchy download sites, getting all the parts of a multi-part RAR file.

      And when I started extracting it, wouldn't you know, it was INFESTED with viruses. I uploaded one of the .exes to VirusTotal and I've never seen so much red.

      Shame on me, though. I'm not an internet newbie, and I should know better than to trust random executable files, especially on Windows.

      So, I went seeking an alternate solution.


      Batocera

      Batocera is a Linux distribution focused on retro-gaming. You wouldn't use it as your daily driver, but you would use it if you want to just boot into something so you can play games. Additionally, Batocera has built-in light gun support! Perfect!

      I did my usual "setup emulation" dance that I've done so many times before: looking up worthwhile games to play, locating ripping ROMs, getting the right extracting BIOSes, etc. I also bought an external hard drive and attached it to my Windows TVPC. I can now boot off the hard drive to go into Batocera directly (because I didn't want to try to figure out dual booting with Windows).

      Batocera is like booting into an arcade cabinet, loading right into ES-DE. It doesn't really expose its file system to you by default, but it's got a killer feature that makes setup easy: Batocera automatically sets up a network share for you. This lets you access all of its folders from another device, meaning I could set everything up on my laptop and transfer it over easily to Batocera.

      Furthermore, Batocera automatically knows when you've got a light gun attached and will show a gun icon on games that are compatible. In theory, I'm able to navigate the interface just using my light gun, but in practice I also paired a bluetooth controller. (See Caveats section below for more on this.)

      You don't HAVE to use Batocera of course, but it ended up being so easy that it became my preferred setup.


      Gaming

      So, I got the gun calibrated, and I got my games set up in Batocera. It's time to shoot!

      I'm happy to report that the gun works fantastically. Like, seriously good.

      For most games and emulators, it "just works" which is exactly what I wanted. I tested out several different games on several different platforms, and it worked on stuff ranging from the Atari 2600 to Naomi arcade cabinets.

      I played through the first 10 rounds of Duck Hunt on the NES without missing a shot before getting bored and moving to something else. Time Crisis on the PlayStation (my original light gun love) plays wonderfully.

      I had a friend over this weekend who also loves light gun games and has nostalgia for TC (though his is for TC2 and TC3). We traded off rounds playing Time Crisis 2 (which ended up being a good way to do it, as I forgot how my arms and eyes need a rest after 15 minutes of light gun gaming). We beat the full campaign in 2 and almost beat 3.

      I also tried the gun out in some Windows games off of Steam, just to make sure that my Batocera success wasn't a fluke. Sure enough, it worked just fine!

      I now have an accurate, easy-to-use light gun setup that works on my large, modern LCD TV. I have hours of light gun gameplay ahead of me, and I'm thrilled.


      Caveats

      Wow, kfwyre, this sounds great! I can't wait to get one for myself!

      Easy there, cowboy/cowgirl/cowthem! Let me surface some of the rough edges, lest you think that this is too good to be true.

      Price

      The buy-in price was $300 for me: $250 for the gun and $50 for the IR sensors. This is NOT cheap. You have to REALLY like light gun games to make this worthwhile.

      Games

      Most light gun games have short campaigns and can be somewhat player-antagonistic. A lot of them are/were arcade cabinets designed to eat your quarters, so they have a lot of cheap deaths built in.

      You get longevity out of them by playing them over and over and memorizing enemy patterns and levels, but this type of gaming doesn't speak to everyone, so be aware that if you're not ready for that kind of gaming, your very expensive light gun might become a very expensive paperweight sooner rather than later.

      Sensors

      The sensors aren't designed to come on and off of your TV, as you would have to recalibrate each time you moved them. As such, you have to be comfortable with the sensors being on your TV/monitor permanently.

      If I'm being honest though, I thought permanent sensors would bother me more than they actually do. They are noticeable, especially when the TV is off, but they quickly become "invisible" in the same way that you don't notice your TV legs or the company logo. And when the TV is on you're so focused on the content you don't see them at all unless you're looking for them.

      Lack of Portability

      Because of the hardware sensors, you can't really have a portable setup in the way that you could with a Sinden or as promised by the G'AIM'E. I'd love to take a light gun setup with me to friends' houses or when we have our nerd weekend meetups, but this simply isn't built for that sort of thing.

      Stray LEDs

      The gun is susceptible to catching stray LEDs, which can throw off your inputs. It features sensitivity settings you can change in hopes of having it ignore them, but in practice I had to cover up some lights from other sources with electrical tape.

      The most egregious one is that my bottom sensor sits right below the IR input for my TV, which I learned features a blinking LED that was messing up my accuracy. If I cover it up with electrical tape, I lose the ability to use a remote, so I have to take that piece of tape on and off depending on whether I'm shooting or using the TV for something else.

      Windows-only Configuration

      In order to calibrate the Gun4IR hardware, you have to use the included software that comes with the gun. This only runs on Windows (note: you could possibly get it running through WINE or something, but I didn't try this).

      Once you calibrate the gun, you save the configuration to the gun itself, and it'll work in other environments (like Batocera), but at present there's a Windows dependency for this kind of setup.

      Prebuilt Gun Quality

      The US prebuilts use actual Guncon and Guncon 2 casings. These, of course, haven't been produced in a long time, so you're getting an old, used controller.

      My Guncon2 has a spongy d-pad in which inputs sink in and don't return to neutral, making the d-pad unusable. This is likely an issue with my specific build rather than the Gun4IR platform as a whole, but it's worth noting that, if you're getting a pre-built, you might have some inevitable QC issues because they're being built in guns from 20 years ago.

      That said, the actual Gun4IR components are rock solid so far.

      Controller "Requirement"

      I had dreams of controlling Batocera using only my gun, but I ended up connecting a controller as well. In part this is because it's simply easier to do things with the controller, but it's also because Gun4IR can't be configured to allow chorded inputs for its buttons, which are necessary for tasks like exiting a game. This makes the setup a little clunkier, but it's not a dealbreaker by any means.

      Recoil

      The gun technically has "recoil" (which, from what I can gather, is just a powerful rumble). It requires an external power supply. I don't have a plug near where I connect my gun to the computer, so I haven't tested this. It's entirely optional though, and I don't feel like I'm losing out on anything by not having it.

      Accuracy

      While I'm impressed with the gun's accuracy, I do lose a little bit of accuracy when I'm deep in the corners of my screen.

      I haven't figured out a way around this, but it's mostly a non-issue. For one, many light gun games don't tend to put targets in the corners anyway, and, even better, most of the games I'm playing are in 4:3 anyway, so they don't even come close to the corners of my 16:9 screen in the first place

      Lenses

      The corner inaccuracy mentioned above might be because I'm using a fisheye lens for the gun. It came with it, though it's optional. The fisheye gives the gun a wider viewing angle, which lets it see the sensors well even when moving around and lets you get closer to the screen without losing accuracy.

      I tried calibrating the gun without using the lens but I would have had to stand so far away from my TV that it would have been comical. The fisheye lens lets me stand at what I would consider the "right" distance for playing.

      Finding Solutions

      Being a niche product, it can be hard to find solutions online when something isn't working. The Sinden, for all the setup it requires, has a LOT of online documentation and discussions about it.

      When looking for Gun4IR help, I inevitably ended up reading through stuff about the Sinden to see if it would help. There isn't a lot out there about Gun4IR specifically, so you're kind of on your own. There is a Gun4IR Discord though that might be helpful. From what I saw, the support on there is less about getting specific things running and more about people needing help with the DIY build processes.

      PCSX2

      While most systems "just worked", PCSX2 didn't. I have no idea if this is because of the gun, the emulator itself, Batocera, or something else entirely. Time Crisis 2 and 3 open with their own Guncon calibration screens, and I would get stuck on them. I could shoot, and the screen would flash and give me the gun sound, but it wouldn't ever calibrate and move forward.

      I initially got around this by disconnecting the gun and loading the game so that it didn't pull up the calibration screen. Then I made a save state past that screen that I could load with the gun already connected. However, when I did this, the accuracy was consistently off.

      I finally learned that you can map a button called "Calibration Shot" in the settings for the emulator. This is, for some reason, different from a regular shot? This now lets me pass the calibration screen and have accurate shooting.

      Also, one time during Time Crisis 3 the gun seemed to get stuck in the upper right quadrant of the screen. It would still shoot, but the shots didn't line up with where we were aiming. We restarted the emulator, and the issue went away and hasn't cropped up again.


      Conclusion

      I am quite fond of my Gun4IR so far. It works better than I hoped it would, and it's unlocked a type of gaming that I thought was extinct. (For some reason, light gun games have a different feel to me than VR shooting gallery games. Maybe it's just nostalgia, but I like them a lot more?)

      I would recommend it ONLY if you're someone who knows they're going to get their money's worth out of it and are also willing to put up with the mostly minimal tinkering required to get it working. I say mostly minimal because, no matter what gun you're using, you're still going to have to set up emulators and ROMs and whatnot. The configuration that is specific to Gun4IR is really just installing the sensors, using the calibration app, and making sure your gun isn't catching other LEDs.

      Compared to the G'AIM'E (which is a bit of a fool's errand at this point because that one's still theoretical while this one's here to kiss you in real life), Gun4IR doesn't offer the "plug and play" promise, but it also is compatible with far more games. If you're in the market for the G'AIM'E, however, it's probably worth waiting out that release to see how it fares (and whether people can get it working with more games besides the included ones).

      On the other hand, if you're like me and need some light gun fun NOW then I give the Gun4IR a pretty strong recommendation, with a secondary recommendation for Batocera. The two of them together are really great, and I'm delighted that I have hours upon hours of shooting games ahead of me.

      If anyone has any additional questions or wants me to test specific games/systems, let me know. I'm happy to report back and help in whatever way I can.

      27 votes
    2. Embarking on this new hobby and a little overwhelmed

      I'm embarking on a new phase in my life and am frankly pretty darned excited about it. My only child is off in college now and I find myself with extra time I didn't used to have. As such, some...

      I'm embarking on a new phase in my life and am frankly pretty darned excited about it. My only child is off in college now and I find myself with extra time I didn't used to have. As such, some younger friends of mine have been reaching out and asking me to join them for "shenanigans" in the form of online video games. Mind you, I haven't played games since the mid 90s, so while this sounds exciting, it also is quite intimidating.

      So far I have gotten my hands on a ROG Ally X. It's a nifty looking handheld that I have been assured would allow me to play a lot of the games my buddies play, but my eyes aren't what they used to be and the screen, however nice, isn't quite big enough for my needs.

      Time to get a dock!

      I was able to find a one for this thing, which is very cool, but now I'm thinking I'm going to drive my wife crazy shouting at the device to talk to my buddies. I assume I need a decent headset, but which one? These things seem to run the range in prices. Do I need it to be wireless?

      Also, I'm guessing it would be good to have some sort of controller so I'm not on top of the screen, again, what fits the middle of the road? Cordless? Do I want a trackpad? Is that even a thing?

      I am overloaded with options.

      Basically, I'm a dad who has discovered he has a lot more time on his hands than he expected and good (and patient) friends who want to spend time with him, but I'm way out of my depth trying to plot a modest path forward (without spending silly money).

      Anyway, thanks for making an old guy coming to the hobby feel welcome!

      24 votes
    3. Searching for replacement parts for an aging game console controller

      My general question ... where do you folks go when searching for replacement parts for aging technology, particularly pertaining to game consoles? I've come across iFixit, and of course there's...

      My general question ... where do you folks go when searching for replacement parts for aging technology, particularly pertaining to game consoles? I've come across iFixit, and of course there's Amazon and eBay as well, but I've been having some difficulty finding a particular part.

      My specific issue is, I have an old Dualshock 4 (model CUH-ZDT2U, with PCB/motherboard model JDM-055) that is on the outs. It started experiencing some stick drift, so I took it apart to clean the contacts in the joystick housing to the best of my ability. In doing so, one of my kids managed to get a hold of the controllers' guts and break off the vibration motor wires from the board.

      So, after taking the board and chassis to a local Makerspace, I got the wires soldered back onto the board. So far so good! However, the stick drift is still an issue and the vibration connection isn't that great. So now, I'm hoping to find some replacement parts - namely, a replacement board with the chassis and motors included.

      One of the main reasons why I'm trying to refit this old controller, rather than replace it outright ... is because my wife bought the controller (and the PS4 it came with) as an anniversary present years ago. I'm the sentimental type and I'm trying to keep as much of this old controller going as I can, Ship-of-Theseus style. In addition, these controllers don't come cheap - $70 seems to be the basement these days for a new, in-box controller.

      I've taken a swing at purchasing replacement parts off eBay - however, while the controller models matched, the board models did not. iFixit has the exact parts I need, but they are out of stock and their stock is inconsistent. I found another site - Fasttech.ca - that purports to have the same parts, but looking around online I've found a fair bit of discussion surrounding this site and the fact that it may be less-than-reputable.

      Any advice on where else I might be able to look for parts?

      14 votes
    4. Looking for games that can be played with only the mouse

      Hello, due to some unfortunately circumstances I need to have my left hand in a cast for some time and I'm looking for recommendations for games I could play only using my right hand (so only...

      Hello, due to some unfortunately circumstances I need to have my left hand in a cast for some time and I'm looking for recommendations for games I could play only using my right hand (so only using the mouse). I have a few in my library that I've already been playing like Super Auto Pets and Let's Revolution, but I'm a bit bored of them. I also tried a tower defense game called Super Sanctuam TD, which was in my library, so I've tried looking for some other TD games but couldn't find anything that caught my eye.

      Edit: I only listed what I've played recently, but I don't really want to limit myself to any genre, the only requirement is to be playable only with the mouse.

      33 votes
    5. Modern controls are needlessly convoluted

      Now the topic may be inflammatory, so let me walk it back and say "in some cases" - let me explain; Just got me this gamepad and I absolutely adore it - for folks not wanting to click on a link,...

      Now the topic may be inflammatory, so let me walk it back and say "in some cases" - let me explain;

      Just got me this gamepad and I absolutely adore it - for folks not wanting to click on a link, think of it as a fancy SNES pad.

      I got it as a fightpad and for that it is marvelous - and while I have no intentions of playing a 3d action game with it, I booted up some 2d indies and platformers to take it for a spin ... and realized that apparently, 6 buttons + dpad just aren't enough anymore.

      Since when do you need to have a light and hard attack as separate buttons? And need an analogue stick on top of the dpad to navigate through inventory? The amount of "simple" games needing to use all the buttons on the modern controller - without a viable alternative - is ridiculous.

      Yes, there are some workarounds but just wanted to vent.

      I'm installing some random titles from my backlog (I have 800+ on my backlog through bundle deals, giveaways, etc.) and it's a crapshoot, not in my favor.

      Thanks for coming to my TedTalk.

      Edit: Yes I realize the modern controller is standardized to the "two sticks + pad + 4 face buttons + 4 shoulder buttons" design; what I'm saying is that while for some game that design is essential, a lot of other games use up all the buttons without a baked-in viable alternative, or worse yet, use buttons for the sake of using buttons!

      25 votes
    6. How to make your Xbox Elite Series 2 controller work properly with Steam

      Context: Last year I struggled for a long, long time to make my new Xbox Elite Series 2 gamepad work properly with Steam. After more than a day of frustration and following various trails of other...

      Context: Last year I struggled for a long, long time to make my new Xbox Elite Series 2 gamepad work properly with Steam. After more than a day of frustration and following various trails of other discussions on the topic, I finally figured out the exact series of actions needed to solve the issue. I posted these steps on Reddit, and they ended up getting me dozens of comments and messages, even as recently as yesterday people still let me know that I saved them from the same frustration. With reddit in its current state of uncertainty, I'd hate for this guide to be lost, so I'm hoping new readers and controller fanatics will find it useful here.

      The Problem: You have a Xbox Elite Series 2 Controller, which you are trying to use in Steam on Windows. When using the default (no profile lights) profile mode, the paddles are detected and can be mapped in Steam Controller config. However, they still register no input in-game when pressed. Here is how to fix your problem:

      The Solution:

      Step 1: You must first revert the firmware of the controller to version 4.8.1908.0. On a PC with your controller plugged in, open the Xbox Accessories app (from the Windows Store), then hit Windows + R to open the Run dialog. Run this command:

      xboxaccessories:\firmwareupdate?legacyDowngrade=true

      This should give you option to revert. Do it.

      Step 2: In Steam Big Picture, go to Gear Icon -> Controller Settings and Enable Xbox Extended Feature Support if it isn't already checked. After enabling it you will have to Reboot. If it's already enabled, there is no need to reboot.

      Step 3: Back to the desktop, make sure the Xbox Accessories app is CLOSED. If it is open, you must close it, then disconnect the controller entirely, then power it off, and then finally reconnect it to the computer.

      Step 4: Press the central profile button on the controller a few times until it cycles through the profiles. You need to cycle it until the profile light turns off, indicating the controller is in its default layout.

      Step 5: Open Steam's controller configuration for your game of choice, and you should now be able to re-map the paddles therein.

      Every time I have done the above process, the paddles on the default profile (with no lights on) are now mappable in Steam and usable in-game. I have completed this successfully now with five total controllers, and all worked with Steam flawlessly afterward.

      Notes & Clarifications:

      • You do not have to uninstall the Xbox Accessories app. However, if ever you use it to modify the controller at all, you must repeat step 3. If you try to use the steam-remapped paddles in the game with the app open, they won't work. You have to turn off the app, disconnect and power cycle the controller, and then reconnect, and very specifically do not re-open the accessories app. I'm assuming this is because the Accessories app inserts some kind of override layer that only goes away after removing the controller and closing the app.
      • This process will almost certainly make the Bluetooth connection wonky, if it even works at all. Instead, you'll want to use either a direct cable connection and/or the official wireless adapter. In fact, all of the above steps worked for me with the wireless adapter connection just as well as with the wired connection. As a bonus, you can seamlessly transition between wired and wireless mode this way by simply plugging or unplugging the cable.
      • At least as of May 2023, I've received now multiple reports saying that newer purchases of the Elite 2 controller are being shipped with the controller now pre-flashed with a default firmware that is newer than the one that was available in the above post. As a result, this means that rolling back the firmware might not work, as it can't be rolled back to version 4.8.1908.0 anymore. However, I have since purchased two more new controllers of my own since then, and neither had this issue, and in fact both worked with Steam immediately out of the box (after telling Xbox app "no!" to firmware upgrades, that is).

      I hope I have posted this correctly (it's my first post here!), and that others continue to find it useful.

      18 votes
    7. rokt leeg!!! – Potentially innovative controller bindings for Rocket League

      I started playing Rocket League at the beginning of Season 9, and am only plat (1s/2s) and gold (3s), so take with a grain of salt. However, knowing that it's very difficult to adjust to new...

      I started playing Rocket League at the beginning of Season 9, and am only plat (1s/2s) and gold (3s), so take with a grain of salt. However, knowing that it's very difficult to adjust to new controller bindings, I took a lot of time to find a layout that was as ergonomic and low-effort as possible. I think this is objectively better than the alternatives.

      These bindings are for a DS4 with the official back button attachment. They can apply to any traditional controller layout with at least one set of back paddles.

      The key points:

      1. Reverse is moved from an analog trigger to a binary button, freeing up an analog input for boost
      2. Boost is moved from a binary button to an analog trigger, making feathering the input easier
      3. Directional air-roll is bound to the right thumb-stick, giving analog adjustment precision

      Full control bindings:

      • LB: powerslide
      • LT: drive forwards
      • L paddle: drive backwards
      • RB: jump
      • RT: boost
      • R paddle: toggle ballcam
      • LS: pitch and yaw
      • RS: directional air roll left and right

      Camera bindings can be put on the face buttons or sacrificing some of the d-pad buttons. If you're using DS4Windows, you can also do a macro to make holding L3 toggle RS into a camera input. In either case, you lose precision since the camera input is no longer analog, but I think that tradeoff is worth it because most camera use is just checking teammate position before kickoff.

      7 votes
    8. What are your favorite third-party controllers?

      What are the best controllers for console and PC that you've used that aren't just official console controllers? I'm a nerd when it comes to getting a million different input methods for games,...

      What are the best controllers for console and PC that you've used that aren't just official console controllers? I'm a nerd when it comes to getting a million different input methods for games, and I'm always looking for new ones to play with.

      Glad we'll never go back to the hellish days before Valve and various FOSS projects fixed the nightmare that controllers on PC used to be.

      15 votes
    9. Does anyone use a trackball mouse?

      I've been curious about making a switch for ergonomics and just lack of space on my desk. Do you recommend it for gaming? Any guidance on genres that do or don't work? I mostly play real time and...

      I've been curious about making a switch for ergonomics and just lack of space on my desk.

      • Do you recommend it for gaming? Any guidance on genres that do or don't work? I mostly play real time and turn based strategy games or point-and-click style games such as Diablo on my computer. I don't generally go in for twitchy FPSes, but I'd like the option.

      • Opinions on index vs. thumb?

      • How long was the adjustment period to get used to it?

      • Any recommendations on good ones to buy?

      • Are there any advantages I'm not thinking of besides just being better for my wrist?

      • Disadvantages besides, potentially, being less precise than a mouse?

      • Are there any tradeoffs with going wireless?

      9 votes