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    1. I think that we won’t see any new and radical new gaming input devices or form factors anymore

      I think this might be a hot take, but as the cliché goes, please hear me out. First of all, what I define by “new and radical” is something that is not only significantly different from what we...

      I think this might be a hot take, but as the cliché goes, please hear me out.

      First of all, what I define by “new and radical” is something that is not only significantly different from what we had before, but it must also fulfill another criteria: it must become ubiquitous.

      So, for gaming input devices, I would say that what Nintendo tried to do with the Wii didn’t stick. The technology wasn’t new, but its implementation was new and radical. It was a gamble, for sure. I loved it for what it could do (and, honestly, I miss it), but it’s been almost exactly 20 years now, and the Switch 2 has the double joystick, d-pad, ABXY, quadruple shoulder button combo that all other controllers have. That basic form factor is what became ubiquitous. Motion controls didn’t go extinct, but apart from aiming via gyroscopes, they’re not that common. Classic controllers though, they’re here to stay. In fact, in these last years, I’ve seen the market for controllers explode. It’s wild.

      What Nintendo did with touch screens on the NDS/3DS did become ubiquitous though (even if they kind of pulled out of it): That input method is what mobile games rely on. Its home hardware are mostly smartphones. What was new and radical about it (and something that Steve Jobs explained well when he introduced the iPhone) is the idea of having one stylus/finger tip as the tool for for the input, and then designing the input methods (swipe, tap, hold, etc.) around it. Again, the technology wasn’t new, but its implementation was a radical departure from conventions at the time, and again, it became ubiquitous. I don’t see smartphones ever going away (or rather, slabs of glass that we swipe, tap, and hold our fingers on).

      I think that there was a hot minute there where we all thought that VR was going to become the next big thing. The input for that doesn’t use technology or methods that are radically different from controllers (they are still just buttons, gyroscopes, and accelerometers, as far as I can tell), but combined with the (supposedly) immersive VR experience, they could have made up for a package that feels new and radical, except that... it became a niche, and I don’t see that ever changing. Baring a leap in technology that allows us to instantly plug into The Matrix, without any complicated setup, I don’t see VR becoming important in gaming, even if it becomes significantly cheaper. It’s just not convenient enough, and in the end, I think that convenience is king, and controllers/touch screens are the ultimate convenience.

      You may be thinking about what Valve is doing with touch pads, on both the Deck and their new controllers, but I don’t see it catching on (not to mention that it doesn’t really feel all that radical to me). I’d love to be proven wrong (and I know that those touch pads can do way more than just replace a mouse, since they also have “zones” that can be mapped to, etc.), but in the end, I don’t see it replacing the third pillar of gaming input devices: keyboard and mouse. For PC games, especially certain genres, nothing will ever beat the convenience of that combo.

      So, for gaming inputs, I think that we have reached the end of the line. If before the end of my time on this earth, something new and radical comes along that becomes ubiquitous, then feel free to come back here and rub it in my face. I’m willing to bet a lot of money that it won’t happen.

      Now, let’s have a talk about form factors, or rather, the hardware.

      I think that the Switch 1 and the Steam Deck really kicked off a golden age of handhelds. Indeed, it feels to me as if some new handheld device releases every week. It’s absolutely wild. I don’t know what changed since the launch of those two consoles. We’ve had handhelds since... what? The Game & Watch? Maybe earlier? I don’t know, but it’s been decades. Yet only now has the market for them finally grown big, maybe too big.

      Why do I say too big? I would like to know why these companies keep developing new models. Are they really selling that many units and making that much profit? If they are, then wow. Good on them. I’m skeptical though. I hope it doesn’t lead to some market crash. I should add that, as someone who feels lukewarm about handheld gaming at best, I don’t understand why they sell so well (again, if they do). Yes, every time I see a new handheld, I want to buy one, just out of FOMO, but look: I have a Switch 2 and I always play it docked.

      I had a GBC/GBA/NDS growing... for the sole purpose of playing Pokémon... always at home. With a couple exceptions on the NDS, I never cared for much else outside of that. It may be that I was conditioned to feel this way about handhelds, since my first console was a Nintendo 64. My preferred way to play games, is to comfortably recline on a chair, turn on a TV (the bigger, the better), grab the controller, and play in the comfort of my home.

      I cannot relate to people who have the courage to take their $200, $300, $400, $500 (or more expensive) handhelds out into the wild, where they could drop from their hands (I’m very clumsy), get stolen, or worse, only to play on a tiny screen while sitting very uncomfortably. If you do this, please explain to me why you enjoy it. I genuinely don’t understand. I’m scared spitless just from yanking out the Joy-Cons from my Switch 2, let alone unplug it from the dock. I also don’t care much for mobile games for similar reasons: screen too small, games not that interesting for me.

      Alas, I have to admit that handhelds have become ubiquitous. I’m not 100% sure, but I think that, as a form factor, they might stay around forever. I don’t think that smartphones, the other form factor that is ubiquitous, are going to completely replace them. Handhelds have the added convenience of analog sticks, buttons, and being gaming-first devices. Smartphones don’t have that.

      The third and last ubiquitous form factor would be consoles and PCs. I group them together because I have a feeling that sooner or later consoles are just going to morph into PCs. I don’t know what Nintendo will do though. They seem determined to have complete control over their ecosystem, but that will require them to keep releasing new consoles with walled gardens. Can they become the Apple of gaming? Can they make this business model sustainable in the long term? I’m not 100% sure. Either way, “big, stationary gaming machines” as the third category, are here to stay.

      VR could be a new and radical form factor, but for the reasons that I mentioned before, I think it will forever remain a niche. Other than that, I can’t imagine what else we could come up with.

      Do you agree? Do you disagree? Do you have a different take? Do you maybe have an idea of what could become ubiquitous in the future? Is there an input device or form factor you’d like to be more commonplace (like Mii with the Wii) or be invented (if it hasn’t been yet)?

      Maybe I should reserve this for a different topic later, but I also don’t see video games themselves coming up with any new and radical gameplay mechanics anymore. I think we already have all the genres that we could possible come up with, and everything that feels new is really just a mashup of something that came before, arranged in a way that hadn’t been thought of yet... kinda like music.

      19 votes
    2. Non-Logitech replacement for G502 mouse?

      My G502s are starting to exhibit the dreaded double-click problem. Now they're old -- I think one is around 10yrs old, the other 6-7yrs old -- so I've gotten solid use out of both. And G502s are...

      My G502s are starting to exhibit the dreaded double-click problem. Now they're old -- I think one is around 10yrs old, the other 6-7yrs old -- so I've gotten solid use out of both. And G502s are cheap enough these days (like US$35 on Amazon) that it'd be inexpensive to replace them with new G502s.

      But I'm still annoyed that this is happening. Plus, this isn't my first time having problems with Logitech gaming peripherals. I've had issues with my G305 wireless mouse (dongle stopped working), and I will never buy Logitech gaming keyboards again since replacement keycaps can't be purchased; gotta buy a whole new keyboard. So yeah, trying to avoid Logitech if possible.

      Anyway, I like the G502 because it has multiple buttons, particularly the main thumb button (G6), which I use for PTT on Discord/Teamspeak. I then use the other two thumb buttons (G4/G5) as forward/back in browsers or game bindings (along with G7/G8).

      Any good alternatives? Let's say ≤US$80. Preference is wired, but non-BT wireless is fine, too. If wireless, ideally it'd AA/AAA batteries so I can quickly swap rechargeable batteries. Lastly, I'm right-handed.

      TIA!

      23 votes
    3. Wired vs. wireless mouse and keyboard?

      My keyboard is breathing its last, and my mouse probably isn't far behind, so I plan to replace them. I have a K70 (cherry MX) and some expensive light-up mouse. When I bought these ~10 years ago,...

      My keyboard is breathing its last, and my mouse probably isn't far behind, so I plan to replace them. I have a K70 (cherry MX) and some expensive light-up mouse.

      When I bought these ~10 years ago, it seemed a truth universally acknowledged that a person who used their desktop computer "seriously" for, oh, video games, must be in want of wired peripherals—and never wireless. Supposedly wireless latency was unbearable and device batteries died quickly.

      Is this still true? (Was it ever?)

      If not, I'd like to try a wireless mouse and keyboard. Cable management is a hassle. My AirPods have been excellent and I don't miss the tangles of old, so I imagine I wouldn't miss these either.

      My computer is a workstation which I use for documents, spreadsheets, and video conferencing. Even as a relatively fast typer, I can't imagine wireless latency would exceed the speed between keystrokes. I occasionally play co-op video games games with friends, but nothing intense.

      Is there some other drawback I'm missing?

      22 votes
    4. Valve announces new hardware: Steam Frame, Steam Controller, and Steam Machine

      Product Links: Steam Frame (standalone VR headset) Steam Controller (gen 2 design) Steam Machine (first-party mini PC) Video Links: Official announcement Tested hands-on with additional details...

      Product Links:

      Video Links:

      Shipping in early 2026. Prices haven't been announced yet.

      178 votes
    5. Best Bluetooth controller for sub $50?

      Hey all I own a pixel 8a if that's relevant and am looking for a controller that is Bluetooth and costs 50 dollars or less on Amazon. I'm not too picky as long as it can hold the phone and is of...

      Hey all I own a pixel 8a if that's relevant and am looking for a controller that is Bluetooth and costs 50 dollars or less on Amazon. I'm not too picky as long as it can hold the phone and is of good quality. Thank you!

      10 votes
    6. Matching mouse dpi and acceleration across Mac and Linux?

      I use a Mac for work, Linux for my personal machine, and the same mouse between the two. I’m accustomed to the dpi/acceleration on Mac, so when I switch to my PC at the end of the day there are...

      I use a Mac for work, Linux for my personal machine, and the same mouse between the two. I’m accustomed to the dpi/acceleration on Mac, so when I switch to my PC at the end of the day there are slight inaccuracies with the pointer. My wrist compensates to cover the gaps and I develop wrist strain after short periods of use.

      Does anyone know how to make the Linux mouse dpi/acceleration as close to identical as possible with my Mac?

      chimera linux w/ gnome btw

      8 votes
    7. Controllers that work well with CachyOS?

      Pretty much the title. I want to move away from OEM 1st party controllers due to quality and inevitable joystick drift. I have an 8bitdo Ultimate, but it's not working for me on CachyOS. Anyone...

      Pretty much the title. I want to move away from OEM 1st party controllers due to quality and inevitable joystick drift. I have an 8bitdo Ultimate, but it's not working for me on CachyOS.

      Anyone else have experience with good quality controllers on Linux? The Flydigi Vader Pro 5 caught my attention, and I am a pretty competitive person for certain games (mainly Halo 3 and Halo Infinite), and like tight controls for platformers and souls-like games as well.

      Edit: I primarily used my controllers wireless, especially on the living room PC. I am more okay with wired on my personal computer.


      Found a solution!!

      Edit as of Tuesday, October 28th 2025: https://www.reddit.com/r/linux_gaming/comments/1iceer5/8bitdo_controller_fixes_for_linux_my_impressions/

      Fixes for 8BitDo controllers running under Linux.

      sudo mkdir /etc/udev/rules.d
      
      sudo nano /etc/udev/rules.d/99-8bitdo-xinput.rules
      
      ACTION=="add", ATTRS{idVendor}=="2dc8", ATTRS{idProduct}=="3106", RUN+="/sbin/modprobe xpad", RUN+="/bin/sh -c 'echo 2dc8 3106 > /sys/bus/usb/drivers/xpad/new_id'"
      
      sudo udevadm control --reload
      

      Change Product ID according to your controller:

      Product ID 8BitDo Ultimate/Ultimate C 2,4Ghz: 3106

      Product ID 8BitDo Ultimate 3-Mode 2,4Ghz: 200f / alternate Product ID: 201b

      Product ID 8BitDo Ultimate 2C 2,4GhZ: 310a

      14 votes
    8. Recommendation Request: New Mouse

      I am looking for a new mouse, and I am overwhelmed by the choices. I would be grateful for recommendations. First, will a USB 2 mouse work in a USB 3 port? What I would like in a mouse: wired...

      I am looking for a new mouse, and I am overwhelmed by the choices.

      I would be grateful for recommendations.

      First, will a USB 2 mouse work in a USB 3 port?

      What I would like in a mouse:

      1. wired
      2. reasonably immune to dirt buildup causing false clicks

      Thanks for any input.

      Edit: Thanks for all of the replies. I read everyone. I decided to go with something cheap and basic since people told me my current mouse that does unwanted clicks is likely just worn out.

      26 votes
    9. My hands-on experience with the Gun4IR

      Note: This is NOT a sponsored post. I'm just a happy customer. Background When the G'AIM'E Kickstarter was announced, I got the itch to play light gun games again. I grew up playing Time Crisis on...

      Note: This is NOT a sponsored post. I'm just a happy customer.


      Background

      When the G'AIM'E Kickstarter was announced, I got the itch to play light gun games again. I grew up playing Time Crisis on my PSX, stepping on a controller plugged into port 2 which acted as a makeshift pedal so I could mimic the arcade experience. A local pizza place near me had an Area 51 machine that I could play for a quarter, and over time I memorized the enemy layouts for that game so that I could play further and further on one coin.

      There are a variety of modern light gun models available now, though all of them are at the hobbyist/tinkerer level. There isn't one that "just works" smoothly and easily.

      The most well known is the Sinden, which achieves calibration on games by setting up a white border around the game on the screen. This allows the gun to establish its position within that border and "know" where it's shooting.

      Unfortunately, when I looked into the Sinden, it seemed like reviews were very mixed, with many mentioning that the border can be kind of a mess to get working. Apparently it can require a lot of legwork and messing around with settings and external programs and whatnot.

      After searching around for alternatives, I landed upon a different line of modern light gun and decided to, well, pull the trigger.


      Gun4IR Intro

      Gun4IR on its own isn't a standalone product so much as it is a framework for making a modern light gun. You can buy the individual components and put them all together in a gun casing, making a functional light gun of your choosing. For example, see the User Guide which goes into detail about which boards you'll need, pin guides, etc. People have made them in Nerf cases and 3D printed ones.

      Now, if I'm going to ding the Sinden for requiring too much tinkering, surely soldering wires onto PCBs is a step in the wrong direction?

      That's absolutely correct! The good news is that you can sidestep all of this. Gun4IR has some official pre-build sellers, meaning you can buy an already made gun -- no soldering needed! Their site sells builds for the UK, while, RPEG Electronics is their official pre-build seller for the US.

      From RPEG, I picked up a pre-built Gun4IR setup in a Guncon 2 housing.


      Gun4IR Basics

      As is implied by the name, Gun4IR uses 4 different IR clusters for calibration. You can buy a pack of LED sensors that plug into the USB port of your TV. You stick these, facing out, to the midpoint of the top, bottom, left, and right of your TV. The LEDs are black and their light can't be seen with the naked eye but can with a camera (you can check to make sure they're working with your phone).

      The gun comes with calibration software that gives you lines on your TV to show the mount points for the LEDs, check how the gun is seeing the sensors, line up shots, etc.

      I'm happy to report that, once calibrated, my gun is VERY accurate. I was honestly expecting a bit of jank, but it's genuinely spot on. There's a small bit of jitter that's noticeable when you have a crosshair on (some of that also might be coming from my unstable hands), but when you're playing a game without a crosshair, it's not enough to make you miss shots. The shots I've missed have been because I'm, well, bad at videogames.


      Games

      Because I wasn't wanting to tinker, I found a big download pack that promised me a pre-configured set of ROMs and emulators that were turnkey and compatible with Gun4IR. I spent days downloading all the individual parts from one of those sketchy download sites, getting all the parts of a multi-part RAR file.

      And when I started extracting it, wouldn't you know, it was INFESTED with viruses. I uploaded one of the .exes to VirusTotal and I've never seen so much red.

      Shame on me, though. I'm not an internet newbie, and I should know better than to trust random executable files, especially on Windows.

      So, I went seeking an alternate solution.


      Batocera

      Batocera is a Linux distribution focused on retro-gaming. You wouldn't use it as your daily driver, but you would use it if you want to just boot into something so you can play games. Additionally, Batocera has built-in light gun support! Perfect!

      I did my usual "setup emulation" dance that I've done so many times before: looking up worthwhile games to play, locating ripping ROMs, getting the right extracting BIOSes, etc. I also bought an external hard drive and attached it to my Windows TVPC. I can now boot off the hard drive to go into Batocera directly (because I didn't want to try to figure out dual booting with Windows).

      Batocera is like booting into an arcade cabinet, loading right into ES-DE. It doesn't really expose its file system to you by default, but it's got a killer feature that makes setup easy: Batocera automatically sets up a network share for you. This lets you access all of its folders from another device, meaning I could set everything up on my laptop and transfer it over easily to Batocera.

      Furthermore, Batocera automatically knows when you've got a light gun attached and will show a gun icon on games that are compatible. In theory, I'm able to navigate the interface just using my light gun, but in practice I also paired a bluetooth controller. (See Caveats section below for more on this.)

      You don't HAVE to use Batocera of course, but it ended up being so easy that it became my preferred setup.


      Gaming

      So, I got the gun calibrated, and I got my games set up in Batocera. It's time to shoot!

      I'm happy to report that the gun works fantastically. Like, seriously good.

      For most games and emulators, it "just works" which is exactly what I wanted. I tested out several different games on several different platforms, and it worked on stuff ranging from the Atari 2600 to Naomi arcade cabinets.

      I played through the first 10 rounds of Duck Hunt on the NES without missing a shot before getting bored and moving to something else. Time Crisis on the PlayStation (my original light gun love) plays wonderfully.

      I had a friend over this weekend who also loves light gun games and has nostalgia for TC (though his is for TC2 and TC3). We traded off rounds playing Time Crisis 2 (which ended up being a good way to do it, as I forgot how my arms and eyes need a rest after 15 minutes of light gun gaming). We beat the full campaign in 2 and almost beat 3.

      I also tried the gun out in some Windows games off of Steam, just to make sure that my Batocera success wasn't a fluke. Sure enough, it worked just fine!

      I now have an accurate, easy-to-use light gun setup that works on my large, modern LCD TV. I have hours of light gun gameplay ahead of me, and I'm thrilled.


      Caveats

      Wow, kfwyre, this sounds great! I can't wait to get one for myself!

      Easy there, cowboy/cowgirl/cowthem! Let me surface some of the rough edges, lest you think that this is too good to be true.

      Price

      The buy-in price was $300 for me: $250 for the gun and $50 for the IR sensors. This is NOT cheap. You have to REALLY like light gun games to make this worthwhile.

      Games

      Most light gun games have short campaigns and can be somewhat player-antagonistic. A lot of them are/were arcade cabinets designed to eat your quarters, so they have a lot of cheap deaths built in.

      You get longevity out of them by playing them over and over and memorizing enemy patterns and levels, but this type of gaming doesn't speak to everyone, so be aware that if you're not ready for that kind of gaming, your very expensive light gun might become a very expensive paperweight sooner rather than later.

      Sensors

      The sensors aren't designed to come on and off of your TV, as you would have to recalibrate each time you moved them. As such, you have to be comfortable with the sensors being on your TV/monitor permanently.

      If I'm being honest though, I thought permanent sensors would bother me more than they actually do. They are noticeable, especially when the TV is off, but they quickly become "invisible" in the same way that you don't notice your TV legs or the company logo. And when the TV is on you're so focused on the content you don't see them at all unless you're looking for them.

      Lack of Portability

      Because of the hardware sensors, you can't really have a portable setup in the way that you could with a Sinden or as promised by the G'AIM'E. I'd love to take a light gun setup with me to friends' houses or when we have our nerd weekend meetups, but this simply isn't built for that sort of thing.

      Stray LEDs

      The gun is susceptible to catching stray LEDs, which can throw off your inputs. It features sensitivity settings you can change in hopes of having it ignore them, but in practice I had to cover up some lights from other sources with electrical tape.

      The most egregious one is that my bottom sensor sits right below the IR input for my TV, which I learned features a blinking LED that was messing up my accuracy. If I cover it up with electrical tape, I lose the ability to use a remote, so I have to take that piece of tape on and off depending on whether I'm shooting or using the TV for something else.

      Windows-only Configuration

      In order to calibrate the Gun4IR hardware, you have to use the included software that comes with the gun. This only runs on Windows (note: you could possibly get it running through WINE or something, but I didn't try this).

      Once you calibrate the gun, you save the configuration to the gun itself, and it'll work in other environments (like Batocera), but at present there's a Windows dependency for this kind of setup.

      Prebuilt Gun Quality

      The US prebuilts use actual Guncon and Guncon 2 casings. These, of course, haven't been produced in a long time, so you're getting an old, used controller.

      My Guncon2 has a spongy d-pad in which inputs sink in and don't return to neutral, making the d-pad unusable. This is likely an issue with my specific build rather than the Gun4IR platform as a whole, but it's worth noting that, if you're getting a pre-built, you might have some inevitable QC issues because they're being built in guns from 20 years ago.

      That said, the actual Gun4IR components are rock solid so far.

      Controller "Requirement"

      I had dreams of controlling Batocera using only my gun, but I ended up connecting a controller as well. In part this is because it's simply easier to do things with the controller, but it's also because Gun4IR can't be configured to allow chorded inputs for its buttons, which are necessary for tasks like exiting a game. This makes the setup a little clunkier, but it's not a dealbreaker by any means.

      Recoil

      The gun technically has "recoil" (which, from what I can gather, is just a powerful rumble). It requires an external power supply. I don't have a plug near where I connect my gun to the computer, so I haven't tested this. It's entirely optional though, and I don't feel like I'm losing out on anything by not having it.

      Accuracy

      While I'm impressed with the gun's accuracy, I do lose a little bit of accuracy when I'm deep in the corners of my screen.

      I haven't figured out a way around this, but it's mostly a non-issue. For one, many light gun games don't tend to put targets in the corners anyway, and, even better, most of the games I'm playing are in 4:3 anyway, so they don't even come close to the corners of my 16:9 screen in the first place

      Lenses

      The corner inaccuracy mentioned above might be because I'm using a fisheye lens for the gun. It came with it, though it's optional. The fisheye gives the gun a wider viewing angle, which lets it see the sensors well even when moving around and lets you get closer to the screen without losing accuracy.

      I tried calibrating the gun without using the lens but I would have had to stand so far away from my TV that it would have been comical. The fisheye lens lets me stand at what I would consider the "right" distance for playing.

      Finding Solutions

      Being a niche product, it can be hard to find solutions online when something isn't working. The Sinden, for all the setup it requires, has a LOT of online documentation and discussions about it.

      When looking for Gun4IR help, I inevitably ended up reading through stuff about the Sinden to see if it would help. There isn't a lot out there about Gun4IR specifically, so you're kind of on your own. There is a Gun4IR Discord though that might be helpful. From what I saw, the support on there is less about getting specific things running and more about people needing help with the DIY build processes.

      PCSX2

      While most systems "just worked", PCSX2 didn't. I have no idea if this is because of the gun, the emulator itself, Batocera, or something else entirely. Time Crisis 2 and 3 open with their own Guncon calibration screens, and I would get stuck on them. I could shoot, and the screen would flash and give me the gun sound, but it wouldn't ever calibrate and move forward.

      I initially got around this by disconnecting the gun and loading the game so that it didn't pull up the calibration screen. Then I made a save state past that screen that I could load with the gun already connected. However, when I did this, the accuracy was consistently off.

      I finally learned that you can map a button called "Calibration Shot" in the settings for the emulator. This is, for some reason, different from a regular shot? This now lets me pass the calibration screen and have accurate shooting.

      Also, one time during Time Crisis 3 the gun seemed to get stuck in the upper right quadrant of the screen. It would still shoot, but the shots didn't line up with where we were aiming. We restarted the emulator, and the issue went away and hasn't cropped up again.


      Conclusion

      I am quite fond of my Gun4IR so far. It works better than I hoped it would, and it's unlocked a type of gaming that I thought was extinct. (For some reason, light gun games have a different feel to me than VR shooting gallery games. Maybe it's just nostalgia, but I like them a lot more?)

      I would recommend it ONLY if you're someone who knows they're going to get their money's worth out of it and are also willing to put up with the mostly minimal tinkering required to get it working. I say mostly minimal because, no matter what gun you're using, you're still going to have to set up emulators and ROMs and whatnot. The configuration that is specific to Gun4IR is really just installing the sensors, using the calibration app, and making sure your gun isn't catching other LEDs.

      Compared to the G'AIM'E (which is a bit of a fool's errand at this point because that one's still theoretical while this one's here to kiss you in real life), Gun4IR doesn't offer the "plug and play" promise, but it also is compatible with far more games. If you're in the market for the G'AIM'E, however, it's probably worth waiting out that release to see how it fares (and whether people can get it working with more games besides the included ones).

      On the other hand, if you're like me and need some light gun fun NOW then I give the Gun4IR a pretty strong recommendation, with a secondary recommendation for Batocera. The two of them together are really great, and I'm delighted that I have hours upon hours of shooting games ahead of me.

      If anyone has any additional questions or wants me to test specific games/systems, let me know. I'm happy to report back and help in whatever way I can.

      27 votes
    10. Embarking on this new hobby and a little overwhelmed

      I'm embarking on a new phase in my life and am frankly pretty darned excited about it. My only child is off in college now and I find myself with extra time I didn't used to have. As such, some...

      I'm embarking on a new phase in my life and am frankly pretty darned excited about it. My only child is off in college now and I find myself with extra time I didn't used to have. As such, some younger friends of mine have been reaching out and asking me to join them for "shenanigans" in the form of online video games. Mind you, I haven't played games since the mid 90s, so while this sounds exciting, it also is quite intimidating.

      So far I have gotten my hands on a ROG Ally X. It's a nifty looking handheld that I have been assured would allow me to play a lot of the games my buddies play, but my eyes aren't what they used to be and the screen, however nice, isn't quite big enough for my needs.

      Time to get a dock!

      I was able to find a one for this thing, which is very cool, but now I'm thinking I'm going to drive my wife crazy shouting at the device to talk to my buddies. I assume I need a decent headset, but which one? These things seem to run the range in prices. Do I need it to be wireless?

      Also, I'm guessing it would be good to have some sort of controller so I'm not on top of the screen, again, what fits the middle of the road? Cordless? Do I want a trackpad? Is that even a thing?

      I am overloaded with options.

      Basically, I'm a dad who has discovered he has a lot more time on his hands than he expected and good (and patient) friends who want to spend time with him, but I'm way out of my depth trying to plot a modest path forward (without spending silly money).

      Anyway, thanks for making an old guy coming to the hobby feel welcome!

      24 votes
    11. Considering going with an ambidextrous mouse if anyone has recommendations

      My current mouse is a Logitech Lightspeed G502, it works fine and aside from double click issue which I brought to a store to fix, no issues with it but it was my friend's prior mouse before he...

      My current mouse is a Logitech Lightspeed G502, it works fine and aside from double click issue which I brought to a store to fix, no issues with it but it was my friend's prior mouse before he upgraded to a newer model.
      As for why I want an ambidextrous mouse, on the rare occasions I want to use my left hand to navigate instead of right.
      I used to use a chinese MMO mouse that honestly was not bad but its software was fairly garbage(Rebranded Red Dragon mouse iirc) so I don't mind Chinese mice as clearly being a brand name mouse doesn't mean much, just want something that is good and lasts a while, since I'm not that big on mice.

      I want these qualities in a mouse.

      • Works wired and with a 2.4GHz dongle
      • Either rechargeable batteries or replaceable works
      • High DPI
      • Not a "lightweight" mouse
      • Has a few programmable buttons
      • On chip storage for programmed buttons/DPI/etc
      • Available worldwide

      Bluetooth as a 3rd option would be neat but not something I'm looking for in particular.

      Rechargeable batteries are supposed to provide better longevity afaik, but the buttons or the mouse itself will probably die before the battery.

      I use 8200 DPI on my current mouse pretty much in both games and in desktop... with mouse acceleration,

      I only lower it on the rare occasions I use something like GIMP.

      Not a fan of these perforated light mice or super light mice, I used to put weights in my previous wired Chinese mouse but I'm using the G502 without weights currently. I am willing to compromise on this if there are no options however.

      On the G502 I only use 2 buttons regularly, and they are to switch to the left or right virtual desktop, the rest of the buttons have a function but they get rarely used (Except Windows+Tab to show all virtual desktops).

      On chip storage is good when I switch platforms (e.g. PC/Windows, SteamDeck or Linux, Mac) and in case I want to completely drop Windows and not worry about needing software for the programmable buttons to work.

      Worldwide availability because I don't live in the US or most parts of Europe.

      Not aware if Logitech has a mouse that does all what I need, the free scrolling wheel is cool and gets used, but they got a history of switches that die too fast.

      9 votes
    12. Looking for very specific mouse recommendations

      Currently, I'm using the Razer Deathadder V2 wired. Sadly, it's only sold through sketchy 3rd party sellers now since Razer has moved onto V3 (which I tried, but it's significantly less...

      Currently, I'm using the Razer Deathadder V2 wired. Sadly, it's only sold through sketchy 3rd party sellers now since Razer has moved onto V3 (which I tried, but it's significantly less comfortable)

      Does anybody know of a mouse that has similar contours, size, and weight to the Deathadder V2 (or V1, which was quite similar)?

      The closest I've seen so far is the Corsair Sabre Pro Champion Series, but I'd love some input before committing to it, if anybody has any.

      13 votes
    13. Smaller keyboard part 2, chords and mice

      Previous topic - https://tildes.net/~comp/1jsx/my_even_smaller_keyboard_upgrade I'm making this a new topic because this keyboard once again got me to think about a couple of interesting things in...

      Previous topic - https://tildes.net/~comp/1jsx/my_even_smaller_keyboard_upgrade

      I'm making this a new topic because this keyboard once again got me to think about a couple of interesting things in regards to both having a smaller keyboard and how to actually make that work. Plus while niche as hell I'd like to contribute some sort of topic to tildes every now and then. For this one i'll be rambling about some of the reasons I've stuck with these things, and the sorts of design concepts it's forced me to think about and problems I ran into (like where the hell the shift key is).

      1. Power users and the Nav cluster -

      The nav cluster is the Home/End/PgUp/PgDwn/Delete/Insert section and maybe the arrow keys below it on a standard fullsize keyboard. These keys are SUPER useful for text and other sorts of navigation, to the point that it seems most "power user" systems(IDE's or even things like vim, or vimum for browsers) just remap the functionality to somewhere that can be easily reached.

      In fact moving the nav cluster and numpad to be somewhere easier to access, so i wasn't constantly moving my hand back and forth, was one of the main reasons I started looking into custom keymaps and eventually smaller keyboards. Being able to trivially hit Home/End without lifting my hands is just so much nicer.

      I mention all this to show you the kind of thinking that originally went into me going down this rabbit hole.
      In essence:
      I wanted to type/navigate faster, oh you can use these keys to be faster, but wait, i'm only a little bit faster and it's MUCH more annoying because I constantly have to move my right hand back and forth, how do I stop that?

      Thus i'm always somewhat surprised at how vehemently people can get about remapping keys. Having Up/Down/Left/Right on I/K/J/L with Home/End/PgUp/PgDwn on U/O/Y/H is super intuitive(right handed WASD, with home/end/pgup/pgdwn in line with their corresponding movement) and makes flying around the screen so much easier, and can also open up keybindings that were otherwise used with just porting all this functionality to keys you can easily hit.

      2. Chords, and the first major problem -

      I'm sure there's a more technical definition but for the purposes of this topic chords are anytime you're hitting one or more keys at once. Shift + a is a chord for A. Ctrl+Shift+Esc is a chord for opening the task manager on windows.

      One of the things you don't instantly think about when you get into smaller boards is what chords are popular, and how adding layers to your workflow will affect them. You really want your modifier keys to be accessible at all times, and in a way that makes sense. I don't have a problem that since my Esc key is not on the base layer, the Ctrl+Shift+Esc becomes Ctrl+Shift+Space+Tab for me. To break that down, Ctrl+Shift are on all layers, Space, when held, is the modifier to go to one of my other layers, and on that layer tab becomes esc.

      In short, I've added one extra key to the chord, and it doesn't bug me.

      What DID bug me, was that with this smaller keyboard, I no longer had room on the left side to put all of those modifier keys. You'll notice that the chord can be easily hit with your left hand alone, and with my previous map, I had shift on the right side. So now I need two hands to hit this chord instead of one. Oh well, right? It's just one chord and I need to use both hands...., whatever?

      3. Oh yeah, the mouse......oh shit -
      While I do think that more software should be written to allow mostly keyboard interaction, the mouse still serves a useful purpose in my ideal world. Being right handed, I use my right hand for the mouse. Sure I have some mouse functionality bound on one of my layers, but that's not going to replace the speed and precision of the mouse.

      And that brings me to Win+Shift+S on windows for taking screenshots. Or more precisely, for selecting an area to take this screenshot....using the mouse.

      First off, if you didn't know about this chord and you're on windows, please use it, it's fantastic for those quick "no i mean this" moments where you're trying to send someone a picture of a problem.

      Second, this chord SUCKED on my new keyboard layout. On any of my previous keyboards including a normal one, I could hit this chord with just my left hand alone, while I moved my right hand to the mouse to quickly select the area I wanted and then edit it (often drawing red lines around the buttons I needed someone to click on...again....as mentioned in the documentation......).

      My new layout had shift on my right hand, and oh dear god did I quickly realize how many other little workflows suck when you need to use both hands to hit the chord and THEN lift up and move it over to the mouse. Most importantly, multiple line/file selection, now required me to move my right hand to the mouse, and my left hand to the right keyboard, so I could hold shift and select things.

      Or in overly dramatic terms, lo i had flown too close to the sun and was falling!

      4. Wandering in the dark -

      For those that for some reason don't have the 5x3 Chiri CE physical layout memorized, here it is (bottom one).

      First try:
      Move shift to the top button of the left thumb cluster. This was currently tab, but clearly I needed shift on my left hand more. Tab cold go on the right middle, where shift had been, and shift can go where tab was. Problem solved.

      No good. That key is often hit with my index finger instead of my thumb, making something like shift+t/g/b super annoying. Hitting that key with your thumb actually requires a shifting of your hands position, and thus feels unnatural.

      Worse, the key below it is my space/layer button, so something like shift+ctrl+left, to select previous words(left in this case being space + j), was super uncomfortable to hit. Just moving my thumb up to hit both keys at once did not feel good as I couldn't properly apply pressure and it just felt weird, but I wouldn't be shocked if some people out there are comfortable with that.

      Second try:
      Ok, we'll just move one of the other 3 thumb keys on the left to the right and put shift there, probably the win key.

      No good. Ctrl and Win (or gui/super/meta/whatever) are just as important as shift. That small cluster being close to each other on normal keyboards, so they're left hand control only, means that almost ALL programs assume as much and have built their default hotkeys around it.

      Windows window movement and terminal navigation being two of the bigger ones that affected me. Further this still wouldn't solve my win+shift+S screenshot issue, as now i'm just moving the windows key over there. There's no way in hell i'm putting ctrl on the right side because that's also constantly used in assuming its on the left side for various hotkeys, shortcuts, and other behaviors.

      Third try:
      It was at this point I was entertaining finally looking into homerow modifiers and setting up tap/double tap modifiers instead of hold. I'm still skeptical of how useful any of that is (but being open minded because of course I was skeptical of all of this and now I preach it), and realllly didn't want to go down that road for all sorts of little workflow reasons I was worried it'd collide with.

      5. The solution. Pinkies and two shifts -

      This stumped for for about two days after I'd decided I just couldn't live with right shift (there were plenty of other awkward workflow things due to having the number layer key be the leftmost thumb on the right pad). I'd really been trying to practice getting used to hitting both thumb keys with my thumb, as I assumed that might be the solution, and unlike basically every other adjustment I've ever had to make for a keyboard, this just felt rough.

      So I took a break and just thought about my previous and normal keyboards. Well, again, in those cases, all these chords assume you're using your thumb for one modifier, and your pinky for the other. Sooooo why not just do that?

      Thus the solution was born:
      MT(MOD_LSFT, KC_X)
      MT(MOD_RSFT, KC_SLSH)

      For the few of you who don't have your Via/QMK mappings memorized, this just says that if I tap the key in question, type z (or / for the second one), and if I hold the key in question, treat it as if I'm holding the shift key.

      So my shift keys are now used by my pinky, just like normally. I have them on Z and /, so I can easily hold either for whatever chord. If I need something like ctrl+shift+z I can just use the right shift, and ditto for ctrl+shift+/.

      Even better, this was already my natural inclination. It only took a bit for me to find out just how much faster and easier this was making things, as I already was used to the idea of moving my left pinky downwards to hit shift. In fact, it was even easier than normal. Every now and then I'll get zi instead of I because I didn't hold the key long enough for it to trigger the "shift" function, and I could get really messy and start screwing with how long the keyboard takes to recognize the difference between a press and a tap, but I'm super happy with it.

      6. Conclusion -
      My wife is right to judge me and I don't care from my superior position in typing valhalla.

      8 votes
    14. Looking for a new mouse (maybe)

      I currently have a Corsair Dark Core Pro SE that I like a lot. My scroll wheel is messed up though. I am kind of in the trenches (who isn't these days), and am looking for some good old retail...

      I currently have a Corsair Dark Core Pro SE that I like a lot. My scroll wheel is messed up though. I am kind of in the trenches (who isn't these days), and am looking for some good old retail therapy.
      My big ticket items:

      • works well on linux (openRGB if possible)
      • has forward and back thumb buttons
      • scroll wheel works (lol)
      • has nice support for pinky (I really like this feature on my current mouse)(as I have big hands)

      I am not opposed to just buying another of my current mouse, I can't tell if there is anything really comparable. I also don't really understand/care for my mouse being lightweight.

      Deep cut question though is if anyone has any experience with trackballs, I kind of want to try it out but ultimately I don't really know what I am doing. I really just use my computer casually, and I don't play any competitive games just casual.

      Any recs? Thanks, happy to answer any questions too.

      19 votes
    15. Seeking programmable mouse with top buttons

      I am looking for a new mouse that meets the following: Must have: at least 3 (ideally 5+) programmable buttons on the top (not the sides), preferably to the outer edges (of the top), rather than...

      I am looking for a new mouse that meets the following:

      Must have:

      • at least 3 (ideally 5+) programmable buttons on the top (not the sides), preferably to the outer edges (of the top), rather than in the middle
      • those top buttons should not be right-handed-biased (most that I've seen put more additional buttons beside left click, and fewer near right click)

      Nice to have:

      • Can be configured with Linux; but I don't mind temporarily using Windows or OSX for initial and a once-in-a-while setup
      • not too many buttons on the sides, since I won't be using them, so that would just drive up the price for features I won't use

      I am currently using a Logitech G300s (images from DDG). I am very satisfied with it, as it meets all my criteria, but one of my primary mouse buttons is starting to unintentionally double click (on single click). I know that that is a common problem with mice in general, but I don't want to bother with DIY fixing, especially any operation that involves soldering. Prior to that, I used a Roccat Kova (images from DDG) which had only 3 additional buttons on top.

      I would just buy another G300s, but it's not in stock any more anywhere that I've looked, presumably due to its age.

      I've done a little websearching, and have asked ChatGPT, but everything I've come across either is biased to right-handed users, or doesn't have enough buttons on top. Most options I've seen have many buttons on the sides, but that's not the way I mouse (I move the mouse with the thumb, and ring and pinky fingers).

      10 votes
    16. Searching for replacement parts for an aging game console controller

      My general question ... where do you folks go when searching for replacement parts for aging technology, particularly pertaining to game consoles? I've come across iFixit, and of course there's...

      My general question ... where do you folks go when searching for replacement parts for aging technology, particularly pertaining to game consoles? I've come across iFixit, and of course there's Amazon and eBay as well, but I've been having some difficulty finding a particular part.

      My specific issue is, I have an old Dualshock 4 (model CUH-ZDT2U, with PCB/motherboard model JDM-055) that is on the outs. It started experiencing some stick drift, so I took it apart to clean the contacts in the joystick housing to the best of my ability. In doing so, one of my kids managed to get a hold of the controllers' guts and break off the vibration motor wires from the board.

      So, after taking the board and chassis to a local Makerspace, I got the wires soldered back onto the board. So far so good! However, the stick drift is still an issue and the vibration connection isn't that great. So now, I'm hoping to find some replacement parts - namely, a replacement board with the chassis and motors included.

      One of the main reasons why I'm trying to refit this old controller, rather than replace it outright ... is because my wife bought the controller (and the PS4 it came with) as an anniversary present years ago. I'm the sentimental type and I'm trying to keep as much of this old controller going as I can, Ship-of-Theseus style. In addition, these controllers don't come cheap - $70 seems to be the basement these days for a new, in-box controller.

      I've taken a swing at purchasing replacement parts off eBay - however, while the controller models matched, the board models did not. iFixit has the exact parts I need, but they are out of stock and their stock is inconsistent. I found another site - Fasttech.ca - that purports to have the same parts, but looking around online I've found a fair bit of discussion surrounding this site and the fact that it may be less-than-reputable.

      Any advice on where else I might be able to look for parts?

      14 votes
    17. Looking for games that can be played with only the mouse

      Hello, due to some unfortunately circumstances I need to have my left hand in a cast for some time and I'm looking for recommendations for games I could play only using my right hand (so only...

      Hello, due to some unfortunately circumstances I need to have my left hand in a cast for some time and I'm looking for recommendations for games I could play only using my right hand (so only using the mouse). I have a few in my library that I've already been playing like Super Auto Pets and Let's Revolution, but I'm a bit bored of them. I also tried a tower defense game called Super Sanctuam TD, which was in my library, so I've tried looking for some other TD games but couldn't find anything that caught my eye.

      Edit: I only listed what I've played recently, but I don't really want to limit myself to any genre, the only requirement is to be playable only with the mouse.

      33 votes