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16 votes
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[SOLVED] Is there an easy way to tell if a laptop has USB-C charging?
Background: I've been using a 9-year-old 13.3 inch Dell Latitude 7370 laptop running MX Linux to stream games via Moonlight from a beefier desktop machine. It is SO good and works flawlessly. My...
Background:
I've been using a 9-year-old 13.3 inch Dell Latitude 7370 laptop running MX Linux to stream games via Moonlight from a beefier desktop machine. It is SO good and works flawlessly. My only complaint is the smaller screen size.
I would like to upgrade to a larger computer, and given that the computer will literally only be used for streaming games, it doesn't need to have great stats. I'm looking at used/refurbished models -- both for price and because buying something new feels like complete overkill for my needs.
My only requirements are:
- 17 inch screen
- USB-C charging
That's it! I'm assuming that literally anything I can get with that will work for what I need given that my small, decade-old laptop is already doing the same job perfectly. USB-C charging is a must-have for me. I already have USB-C power cords in all the places I plan on using it, and I don't want to have to use a separate charger for it.
My Situation:
Because I'm searching for used/refurbished models, I'm limited to what's available rather than going for any specific model of computer. I can easily find listings for computers with 17 inch screens. What I can't find easily is whether or not they support USB-C charging. Most sites don't have a filter for that, and a lot of the listings don't specify the type of charger used and just list "AC adapter" (or don't mention it at all). Many sites don't have pictures of the ports, or the pictures they do have are stock photos that aren't of the exact model.
Is there some easy way to find these that I'm missing? Some keyword, or a site that does have a filter for that, or brand knowledge that can point me in the right direction?
Also, if anyone has any recommended sites for used/refurbished laptops, let me know. I have had success with Backmarket for used tech before, but I'm open to recommendations.
14 votes -
Ploopy Classic 2 open source trackball
13 votes -
EU paves the way for iPhones and Android devices to ditch USB-C entirely
32 votes -
Introducing two new PebbleOS watches!
57 votes -
Google’s Taara is launching a new chip to deliver high-speed Internet with light
13 votes -
How can I prevent my work computers turning my home into an oven?
[Edit] Details on the plan as it stands are here, potentially using one of these heat pumps. Looking for advice before the weather starts to warm up! I'm running multiple GPUs for dev work in my...
[Edit] Details on the plan as it stands are here, potentially using one of these heat pumps.
Looking for advice before the weather starts to warm up! I'm running multiple GPUs for dev work in my small home office, and it's pretty much equivalent to having a fan heater running all day. Right now that's actually a bonus, but it really won't be in a couple of months.
The big heat generating components are all water cooled - partly just to fit them in a sensible amount of space, and partly because I figured I'd end up with exactly this problem and being able to physically pipe the heat elsewhere (ideally outside) would probably be necessary. The bit I'm trying to figure out now is how to actually make that happen...
Ideas so far:
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Stick an air duct on the back of the radiator and hang the duct out of the window: straightforward but messy, may be counterproductive depending how hot it is outside and how well I can rig up some kind of baffle between the open window and the duct.
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Put the whole radiator outside and drill a couple of small holes in the wall for the pipes: this was my first thought, but PC radiators and fans definitely aren't rated for outdoor use, and I'm not sure where to start looking for something that would be designed for that while still being suitable to hook up to the computer waterblocks. I'm also concerned about condensation on the electronics if the coolant gets below indoor ambient temperature overnight.
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Set up some kind of actual exterior radiator (or heat pump?) outside, and use a heat exchanger between that and the PC cooling loop: seems more like the "proper" way to be doing this, but it's well outside my area of expertise and feels like there would be a lot of potentially expensive stumbling blocks. Also still has the condensation problem, I think.
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Just crank up the air conditioning: I'm not actually sure if the unit I've got has enough capacity, and it definitely seems wasteful to heat up the air and then use more energy cooling it again rather than dumping the heat directly outside, but maybe I'm wrong there!
I'm in a kind of awkward middle ground: I'm running enough hardware that this is getting to be an issue beyond what you'd get with normal end user setups, and I'm willing to put some money into fixing it (it's affecting my job and my home, after all!), but I'm self employed and nowhere close to the industrial or datacenter scale that tends to come up when searching for solutions.
Has anyone dealt with this themselves, or come across small office/homelab scale solutions that might work?
20 votes -
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How do graphics cards work? Exploring GPU architecture
8 votes -
Building free-formed circuit sculptures (Mohit Bhoite, Supercon 2019)
2 votes -
Refurbished Playdate for $179, new price at $229 after March 25th
27 votes -
The OneXSugar asks: what if Nintendo Switch could transform into Nintendo DS?
9 votes -
Making electronic dance music in 1990 with a budget home computer
12 votes -
Super Nintendo hardware is running faster as it ages
20 votes -
Looking for very specific mouse recommendations
Currently, I'm using the Razer Deathadder V2 wired. Sadly, it's only sold through sketchy 3rd party sellers now since Razer has moved onto V3 (which I tried, but it's significantly less...
Currently, I'm using the Razer Deathadder V2 wired. Sadly, it's only sold through sketchy 3rd party sellers now since Razer has moved onto V3 (which I tried, but it's significantly less comfortable)
Does anybody know of a mouse that has similar contours, size, and weight to the Deathadder V2 (or V1, which was quite similar)?
The closest I've seen so far is the Corsair Sabre Pro Champion Series, but I'd love some input before committing to it, if anybody has any.
13 votes -
Xbox's new hardware plans begin with a gaming handheld in 2025
26 votes -
Investigation: We tried to buy American chips as a Russian defense manufacturer - it worked
21 votes -
AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT reviews and launch
The AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT launches tomorrow (6th March) for a MRRP of: $600 USA before taxes £570 UK after taxes Reviews: Have They Finally Done It? - Hardware Unboxed Review & Benchmarks vs. 5070...
The AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT launches tomorrow (6th March) for a MRRP of:
- $600 USA before taxes
- £570 UK after taxes
Reviews:
- Have They Finally Done It? - Hardware Unboxed
- Review & Benchmarks vs. 5070 Ti, 5070, 7900 XT - Gamer Nexus
- Nvidia in Trouble? The RX 9070 XT has great potential - der8auer
- AMD Radeon RX 9070 / 9070 XT review: back to winning ways - Eurogamer
- AMD, I Could Kiss You - 9070 and 9070 XT Review - Linus Tech Tips
- AMD's Radeon RX 9070 XT is the most exciting GPU to launch in years - XDA Developers
Bonus:
30 votes -
SiFive HiFive Premier P550 RISC-V (on Linux)
4 votes -
Apple unveils new Mac Studio, the most powerful Mac ever
15 votes -
Apple's software quality crisis: when premium hardware meets subpar software
35 votes -
ACCESS.bus: The forgotten USB competitor
12 votes -
Can I upgrade my XMP memory?
My memory kit is G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 5600 CL36 Black. The CPU is i9-13900KS on Gigabyte Z790 AERO G. I noticed that memory price has been dropped significantly so I think I might...
My memory kit is G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 5600 CL36 Black. The CPU is i9-13900KS on Gigabyte Z790 AERO G.
I noticed that memory price has been dropped significantly so I think I might upgrade to 64GB.
Online information seems to be conflicting regarding XMP and dual/quad channels, so I'm asking for advice here:
- Can I buy one more of the same kit to upgrade to 4x16GB? Will it affect XMP or dual channel?
- Can I buy other sticks of the same size (2x16GB)? The leftmost slot is obscured by the CPU cooler fan, so I'll need to either move it up or use low profile one.
- Can I buy 2x32GB sticks so I end up with 2x32GB + 2x16GB?
From what I understand doing any of those options might cause XMP to not work and it'd be the best (but costly) to have 2x32GB as the only sticks in the system.
6 votes -
Framework’s first desktop is a strange—but unique—mini ITX gaming PC
34 votes -
Framework Laptop 12 is a cheaper, more colorful take on a repairable laptop PC
43 votes -
Framework gives its 13-inch Laptop another boost with Ryzen AI 300 CPU update
14 votes -
Technician warns against copper modding GPUs, fixes RTX 3080 with component damage
19 votes -
The birth and glory of Swedish computers
7 votes -
Playing DOS and Windows 98 games on a retro PC (real hardware)
10 votes -
Microsoft unveils chip it says could bring quantum computing within years
15 votes -
The unbrickable pledge
12 votes -
Ink Console is an eink visual novel platform
14 votes -
Building a personal, private AI computer on a budget
24 votes -
TRMNL - Open source e-ink "companion" device
52 votes -
Smaller keyboard part 2, chords and mice
Previous topic - https://tildes.net/~comp/1jsx/my_even_smaller_keyboard_upgrade I'm making this a new topic because this keyboard once again got me to think about a couple of interesting things in...
Previous topic - https://tildes.net/~comp/1jsx/my_even_smaller_keyboard_upgrade
I'm making this a new topic because this keyboard once again got me to think about a couple of interesting things in regards to both having a smaller keyboard and how to actually make that work. Plus while niche as hell I'd like to contribute some sort of topic to tildes every now and then. For this one i'll be rambling about some of the reasons I've stuck with these things, and the sorts of design concepts it's forced me to think about and problems I ran into (like where the hell the shift key is).
1. Power users and the Nav cluster -
The nav cluster is the Home/End/PgUp/PgDwn/Delete/Insert section and maybe the arrow keys below it on a standard fullsize keyboard. These keys are SUPER useful for text and other sorts of navigation, to the point that it seems most "power user" systems(IDE's or even things like vim, or vimum for browsers) just remap the functionality to somewhere that can be easily reached.
In fact moving the nav cluster and numpad to be somewhere easier to access, so i wasn't constantly moving my hand back and forth, was one of the main reasons I started looking into custom keymaps and eventually smaller keyboards. Being able to trivially hit Home/End without lifting my hands is just so much nicer.
I mention all this to show you the kind of thinking that originally went into me going down this rabbit hole.
In essence:
I wanted to type/navigate faster, oh you can use these keys to be faster, but wait, i'm only a little bit faster and it's MUCH more annoying because I constantly have to move my right hand back and forth, how do I stop that?Thus i'm always somewhat surprised at how vehemently people can get about remapping keys. Having Up/Down/Left/Right on I/K/J/L with Home/End/PgUp/PgDwn on U/O/Y/H is super intuitive(right handed WASD, with home/end/pgup/pgdwn in line with their corresponding movement) and makes flying around the screen so much easier, and can also open up keybindings that were otherwise used with just porting all this functionality to keys you can easily hit.
2. Chords, and the first major problem -
I'm sure there's a more technical definition but for the purposes of this topic chords are anytime you're hitting one or more keys at once. Shift + a is a chord for A. Ctrl+Shift+Esc is a chord for opening the task manager on windows.
One of the things you don't instantly think about when you get into smaller boards is what chords are popular, and how adding layers to your workflow will affect them. You really want your modifier keys to be accessible at all times, and in a way that makes sense. I don't have a problem that since my Esc key is not on the base layer, the Ctrl+Shift+Esc becomes Ctrl+Shift+Space+Tab for me. To break that down, Ctrl+Shift are on all layers, Space, when held, is the modifier to go to one of my other layers, and on that layer tab becomes esc.
In short, I've added one extra key to the chord, and it doesn't bug me.
What DID bug me, was that with this smaller keyboard, I no longer had room on the left side to put all of those modifier keys. You'll notice that the chord can be easily hit with your left hand alone, and with my previous map, I had shift on the right side. So now I need two hands to hit this chord instead of one. Oh well, right? It's just one chord and I need to use both hands...., whatever?
3. Oh yeah, the mouse......oh shit -
While I do think that more software should be written to allow mostly keyboard interaction, the mouse still serves a useful purpose in my ideal world. Being right handed, I use my right hand for the mouse. Sure I have some mouse functionality bound on one of my layers, but that's not going to replace the speed and precision of the mouse.And that brings me to Win+Shift+S on windows for taking screenshots. Or more precisely, for selecting an area to take this screenshot....using the mouse.
First off, if you didn't know about this chord and you're on windows, please use it, it's fantastic for those quick "no i mean this" moments where you're trying to send someone a picture of a problem.
Second, this chord SUCKED on my new keyboard layout. On any of my previous keyboards including a normal one, I could hit this chord with just my left hand alone, while I moved my right hand to the mouse to quickly select the area I wanted and then edit it (often drawing red lines around the buttons I needed someone to click on...again....as mentioned in the documentation......).
My new layout had shift on my right hand, and oh dear god did I quickly realize how many other little workflows suck when you need to use both hands to hit the chord and THEN lift up and move it over to the mouse. Most importantly, multiple line/file selection, now required me to move my right hand to the mouse, and my left hand to the right keyboard, so I could hold shift and select things.
Or in overly dramatic terms, lo i had flown too close to the sun and was falling!
4. Wandering in the dark -
For those that for some reason don't have the 5x3 Chiri CE physical layout memorized, here it is (bottom one).
First try:
Move shift to the top button of the left thumb cluster. This was currently tab, but clearly I needed shift on my left hand more. Tab cold go on the right middle, where shift had been, and shift can go where tab was. Problem solved.No good. That key is often hit with my index finger instead of my thumb, making something like shift+t/g/b super annoying. Hitting that key with your thumb actually requires a shifting of your hands position, and thus feels unnatural.
Worse, the key below it is my space/layer button, so something like shift+ctrl+left, to select previous words(left in this case being space + j), was super uncomfortable to hit. Just moving my thumb up to hit both keys at once did not feel good as I couldn't properly apply pressure and it just felt weird, but I wouldn't be shocked if some people out there are comfortable with that.
Second try:
Ok, we'll just move one of the other 3 thumb keys on the left to the right and put shift there, probably the win key.No good. Ctrl and Win (or gui/super/meta/whatever) are just as important as shift. That small cluster being close to each other on normal keyboards, so they're left hand control only, means that almost ALL programs assume as much and have built their default hotkeys around it.
Windows window movement and terminal navigation being two of the bigger ones that affected me. Further this still wouldn't solve my win+shift+S screenshot issue, as now i'm just moving the windows key over there. There's no way in hell i'm putting ctrl on the right side because that's also constantly used in assuming its on the left side for various hotkeys, shortcuts, and other behaviors.
Third try:
It was at this point I was entertaining finally looking into homerow modifiers and setting up tap/double tap modifiers instead of hold. I'm still skeptical of how useful any of that is (but being open minded because of course I was skeptical of all of this and now I preach it), and realllly didn't want to go down that road for all sorts of little workflow reasons I was worried it'd collide with.5. The solution. Pinkies and two shifts -
This stumped for for about two days after I'd decided I just couldn't live with right shift (there were plenty of other awkward workflow things due to having the number layer key be the leftmost thumb on the right pad). I'd really been trying to practice getting used to hitting both thumb keys with my thumb, as I assumed that might be the solution, and unlike basically every other adjustment I've ever had to make for a keyboard, this just felt rough.
So I took a break and just thought about my previous and normal keyboards. Well, again, in those cases, all these chords assume you're using your thumb for one modifier, and your pinky for the other. Sooooo why not just do that?
Thus the solution was born:
MT(MOD_LSFT, KC_X)
MT(MOD_RSFT, KC_SLSH)For the few of you who don't have your Via/QMK mappings memorized, this just says that if I tap the key in question, type z (or / for the second one), and if I hold the key in question, treat it as if I'm holding the shift key.
So my shift keys are now used by my pinky, just like normally. I have them on Z and /, so I can easily hold either for whatever chord. If I need something like ctrl+shift+z I can just use the right shift, and ditto for ctrl+shift+/.
Even better, this was already my natural inclination. It only took a bit for me to find out just how much faster and easier this was making things, as I already was used to the idea of moving my left pinky downwards to hit shift. In fact, it was even easier than normal. Every now and then I'll get zi instead of I because I didn't hold the key long enough for it to trigger the "shift" function, and I could get really messy and start screwing with how long the keyboard takes to recognize the difference between a press and a tap, but I'm super happy with it.
6. Conclusion -
My wife is right to judge me and I don't care from my superior position in typing valhalla.8 votes -
Looking for a new mouse (maybe)
I currently have a Corsair Dark Core Pro SE that I like a lot. My scroll wheel is messed up though. I am kind of in the trenches (who isn't these days), and am looking for some good old retail...
I currently have a Corsair Dark Core Pro SE that I like a lot. My scroll wheel is messed up though. I am kind of in the trenches (who isn't these days), and am looking for some good old retail therapy.
My big ticket items:- works well on linux (openRGB if possible)
- has forward and back thumb buttons
- scroll wheel works (lol)
- has nice support for pinky (I really like this feature on my current mouse)(as I have big hands)
I am not opposed to just buying another of my current mouse, I can't tell if there is anything really comparable. I also don't really understand/care for my mouse being lightweight.
Deep cut question though is if anyone has any experience with trackballs, I kind of want to try it out but ultimately I don't really know what I am doing. I really just use my computer casually, and I don't play any competitive games just casual.
Any recs? Thanks, happy to answer any questions too.
19 votes -
Framework (2nd gen) event: 25th February
19 votes -
Space hifi
6 votes -
Framework 13 chassis available for $400
32 votes -
Bluetooth receiver with a sane low-battery warning?
The behavior of a bluetooth device when it reaches low battery is never advertised, and a lot of the time no one even mentions it in the reviews. My experience is that most devices give you an...
The behavior of a bluetooth device when it reaches low battery is never advertised, and a lot of the time no one even mentions it in the reviews. My experience is that most devices give you an audio warning on repeat until you charge it, which is obviously bad design.
Can anyone recommend a bluetooth receiver that doesn't do this? I've heard that apple airpods only warn you once or twice, but my preference is for a battery-powered bluetooth receiver that lets me plug in wired headphones. I'm still interested in hearing about other bluetooth headphones though.
If there's nothing on the market, it might be interesting to try and build something. There must be bluetooth modules you can buy, but I wonder if they would have the same problem. Maybe you can modify the firmware? If anyone out there is hardware-hacking bluetooth devices, let me know.
14 votes -
Patent filed by Nintendo for novel input method involving Switch 2 Joycon
26 votes -
Uses for retired 2009 MacBook Pro? [Specifically, when I already own an RPi4]
Its screen and touchpad work as well as they always have, even though it's largely been gathering dust beneath my desk for the past two years. It's obsolete and too slow for modern (read: under 7...
Its screen and touchpad work as well as they always have, even though it's largely been gathering dust beneath my desk for the past two years. It's obsolete and too slow for modern (read: under 7 years old) macOS, but it's not broken.
I could install Linux and set up a server, but my Pi has already filled that role.
This topic came to mind because a friend sent two truly broken laptops—including a MBP of similar vintage to the one discussed here—home with me to send to electronics recycling. Kicking about for other opinions before I add this computer to the pile.
19 votes -
DeepComputing launches early access program for DC-ROMA RISC-V Mainboard for Framework Laptop 13
4 votes -
We're bringing Pebble back!
80 votes -
T1: a RISC-V Vector processor implementation
8 votes -
Steam Brick: No screen, no controller, and absolutely no sense, just a power button and a USB port
53 votes -
Looking for an Android tablet with some probably unreachable requirements
Hello. I'm currently in the market for an Android tablet, not strictly for my personal usage, but for my family so there's one easily reachable touch screen computer around the house. The problems...
Hello. I'm currently in the market for an Android tablet, not strictly for my personal usage, but for my family so there's one easily reachable touch screen computer around the house. The problems start with my requirements, which are... not exactly tablet market friendly:
- Available in France (and without overly high shipping costs)
- Long term manufacturer support so it isn't subject to suddenly become e-waste because they decided to stop providing updates after like 1 major Android release
- Ability to install an Android distribution that doesn't rely on Google apps such as LineageOS + microG
- Sufficient specs to use a web browser and play videos without issues.
- I'd like the model to be easy to repair in the same vein as the Fairphone but that's lower priority
The budget is best defined as "probably not enough" (I don't think I can afford to spend much more than ~400€). Given that I suspect from my initial search not yielding much that fitting all the requirements is impossible especially within that budget, do you have pointers on models that provide an acceptable compromise for what I'm looking for, or that somehow do match all the criteria?
Hilariously, the closest candidate so far within budget seems to be... The Google Pixel tablet, which despite being a Google product has a fairly straightforward way to get an unGoogled ROM on it.
15 votes -
The invalid 68030 instruction that accidentally allowed the Mac Classic II to successfully boot up
17 votes -
Where can I buy affordable, high quality Micro SD Cards within Canada?
I'm curious if you guys have a good retailer for SD Cards. Costco used to sell them, but they don't seem to anymore. I'd like to use them for portable data storage.
16 votes -
TCL's bet on screens that look like paper
16 votes -
Seeking programmable mouse with top buttons
I am looking for a new mouse that meets the following: Must have: at least 3 (ideally 5+) programmable buttons on the top (not the sides), preferably to the outer edges (of the top), rather than...
I am looking for a new mouse that meets the following:
Must have:
- at least 3 (ideally 5+) programmable buttons on the top (not the sides), preferably to the outer edges (of the top), rather than in the middle
- those top buttons should not be right-handed-biased (most that I've seen put more additional buttons beside left click, and fewer near right click)
Nice to have:
- Can be configured with Linux; but I don't mind temporarily using Windows or OSX for initial and a once-in-a-while setup
- not too many buttons on the sides, since I won't be using them, so that would just drive up the price for features I won't use
I am currently using a Logitech G300s (images from DDG). I am very satisfied with it, as it meets all my criteria, but one of my primary mouse buttons is starting to unintentionally double click (on single click). I know that that is a common problem with mice in general, but I don't want to bother with DIY fixing, especially any operation that involves soldering. Prior to that, I used a Roccat Kova (images from DDG) which had only 3 additional buttons on top.
I would just buy another G300s, but it's not in stock any more anywhere that I've looked, presumably due to its age.
I've done a little websearching, and have asked ChatGPT, but everything I've come across either is biased to right-handed users, or doesn't have enough buttons on top. Most options I've seen have many buttons on the sides, but that's not the way I mouse (I move the mouse with the thumb, and ring and pinky fingers).
10 votes