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    1. Looking for advice on setting up computer case fans

      I've never actually put in more fans than what a case comes with, but I have an unraid server that is running hot so I got a pack of 5 fans to put in it. From what I understand, you want them set...

      I've never actually put in more fans than what a case comes with, but I have an unraid server that is running hot so I got a pack of 5 fans to put in it.

      From what I understand, you want them set up so that there is a solid airflow throughout the case; ie I'm planning to set it up so that the front and bottom fans are intake and the top and back fans are exhaust, so that cool air enters from the front/bottom and exits out the back/top.

      However, one of the fans will be going on the side door. I'm assuming this wants to be intake as well (so that the airflow goes through the entire case, as I assume it would disrupt the airflow as exhaust). Or would it be better to not have one on the side and just have an extra fan laying about?

      This is how I plan to set it up (shout out to MS Paint): https://ibb.co/KcXx5cgW

      Note: The X's are because the installed chassis block being able to put fans there; the bottom one is especially disappointing as it's the HDDs that are mostly getting hot

      Just wanted to confirm that that set up looks good and that intake for the side one (where the ? is) is the proper choice

      10 votes
    2. Designing a slide-out phone case with a keyboard

      For reference, I have next to zero knowledge of building electronics. I've replaced the joysticks on two Nintendo joycons (which I actually found pretty fun), and that's it. I also have no...

      For reference, I have next to zero knowledge of building electronics. I've replaced the joysticks on two Nintendo joycons (which I actually found pretty fun), and that's it. I also have no experience with 3D printing or designing specific products.

      I am also sick of touch screen keyboards on phones, do not like any of of the phones that do have keys or the Clicks phone case (why is it on the BOTTOM—), and currently have a lot of free time.

      So my question to you: how would I go about designing my own slide out case with its own keyboard?

      Because that is my ideal solution at this point. And in fact, it turns out someone DID make a 3D printed "slider terminal" this year. Except it's for the Note 10 (I have a Galaxy S9), and seems to be used as a full-fledged replacement for a desktop experience with a trackpad. That's neat and will probably appeal to a lot of people here, but personally, I just need physical keys.

      Along with the keyboard used for that terminal, I also found this other tiny keyboard which doesn't have the trackpad and is about the same dimensions as my Galaxy S9. Actually I found that first and was trying to figure out if there were any cases that could store and pop that out. The biggest issue is that it would cover my camera except maybe when it's slid out, but screw it, I want a damn physical keyboard.

      I do have access to 3D printers (yay public libraries!) and I'm willing to learn Blender in order to make this thing. I just need advice on where to begin and how to tackle this. In particular, I have no clue how to go about the slide out part. I feel like I should be able to figure out how to make a case that fits the dimensions of my phone and the keyboard fairly easily, but no idea where to begin with researching the sliding component.

      Besides that, I also know that I'm not alone here in my frustrations with phone keyboards, so I'm hoping we can pool together ideas on how to do this. As far as I can tell there's not really a "one size fits all" solution that would work for all phones (well, except perhaps a foldable case instead of slide-out), but maybe we can at least share decent starting points for people to design their own. For instance, the slider terminal uses a keyboard that came with a remote, and it would never have occurred to me that could be used for this sort of project. And there are a lot of potential workarounds for the camera placements, so Person A may have an idea that doesn't work well for them, but does work better for Person B than their own original idea.

      So yeah. Advice, ideas and general brainstorming are welcome!

      20 votes
    3. I have been using a neo-dumbphone for a week, here are my thoughts

      Overview I got the Minimal Phone by Minimal Company (it is a stupid name). Overall I quite like it. The hardware seems pretty solid, and for the most part the software is good. It is a first gen...

      Overview

      I got the Minimal Phone by Minimal Company (it is a stupid name). Overall I quite like it. The hardware seems pretty solid, and for the most part the software is good. It is a first gen device, and it does show in some spots, but they also are running relatively stock android for both good and bad.

      Background

      Two years ago, I stopped carrying my phone with me all the time, and moved over to carrying a small notebook to keep track of things. Instead of going into my phone calendar, I write stuff into this notebook. I also repaired my PSP around the same time, to handle entertainment. In the past two years, I have moved more tasks off of my phone and onto dedicated devices to do those tasks. This left my phone as primarily used for communication. I have more thoughts on using dedicated devices, but I am waiting until I finish switching over to the final dedicated device before I do a write up on that. When I needed to replace my phone, going with a neo-dumbphone felt like a good fit for me.

      Why I chose the Minimal Phone by Minimal Company

      So there were a few features that I liked about the minimal phone compared to others:
      • while more expensive than a cheap android that I do software limitations on, it felt like I was getting a device that worked for me, rather than doing a bunch of configuration to get one to work for me
      • Minimal phone was significantly cheaper than the Lite Phone, and had Google Playstore access to add some apps not included that I may need
      • RCS support (it is just running Google Messages)
      • eInk felt like a good fit for me
      • The physical keyboard intrigued me

      Experience ordering the phone

      I will say, that with it being a new company, there were several delays in receiving the phone. They had a manufacturing issue that pushed back my phone a month, and there was no communication about it until I reached out. It would have been nice if they notified me about this ahead of time, but being a new company, I will extend some grace. Shipping was handled by some no-name company, so tracking was sparse and it seemed to be delayed a few times and was quite slow (took 2 days from Hong Kong to Vancouver Canada, but then two weeks from Vancouver to the Canadian prairies).

      Software Impressions

      Overall, I have been pleased with the software. It is running stock android, with a custom app launcher, and another custom app to configure screen settings. They did not over commit on the software, and instead focused on just providing a few well polished apps. I think there is some room for future bug fixes and potentially some more first party apps, but overall I am glad they went in this direction. Since it is pretty stock Android, I feel that future OS updates should be easy (they did commit to 5 years support, but that also relies on the company lasting 5 years). The default Android settings out of the box did not render well on eInk display (scrolling is rough compared to pagination) but one I tweaked some screen settings it got better. Overall, some rough edges, and a noticeable negative difference when leaving first party apps (which is mandatory as first party is so small), but nothing deal breaking.

      Hardware

      The hardware has been quite good. The eInk screen puts less strain on performance, as nothing needs to be extremely snappy since the screen can't keep up. The physical keyboard has been good, although I do feel that the shift key and the alt key should be reversed. The battery was advertised as a four day battery, but in my use case, it has been a comfortable two day battery (ending the second day with about 25%). I feel that in the coming weeks I may get closer to a three day battery, as the novelty wears off and I use it less. The camera is pretty weak, but I have not liked taking pictures on my phone anyways, so I am not concerned about it. The display has been really nice. I have never really used eInk screens for an extended time before, but it just feels quiet if that makes sense. With it being eInk, it sometimes does not fully refresh the screen, but there is a screen refresh button if needed. Overall, I have been quite impressed with the hardware. There are a few layout decisions they made that I feel I would have chosen differently, but nothing deal breaking.

      Summary

      It is a first gen device and sometimes shows the rough edges, but no major issues and I have quite enjoyed it. We will see how I feel about it in a month or two, but I think this type of device is probably what I will continue using for several years.
      39 votes
    4. Surface Pro 3 owners: Tell me your Linux experiences! (Please...)

      So I bought my SP3 in '17 as an old-ass student attempting to graduate. It was amazing as I was able to disable most cloudy things (nothing like today with 365 and the general cloud storage), but...

      So I bought my SP3 in '17 as an old-ass student attempting to graduate. It was amazing as I was able to disable most cloudy things (nothing like today with 365 and the general cloud storage), but still use it as a laptop, and finish up my degree. Since then, I've swapped to Linux and wanted to do it too (did it briefly with Ubuntu, but it was still pretty rudimentary back around '19... no touch screen, not even bloaty, was a bit too small of a UI -- can't remember which DM I used, though I know it wasn't xfce which I prefer when I use a DM, though I use i3 on my desktop).
      That being said, it seems like there are great options for the Surfaces now, but for newer options. So I wanted to ping y'all and see... have you used Linux on any Surface, and preferably, would like to know for the older version.

      I hear Manjaro has gotten a decent option, as I know they have the PinePhone (which I own one but... I haven't had time to mess around with, sadly). I'm not really looking for the touch screen but as it seems the blutooth is dying on the Surface (possibly unrelated or due to the latest Windows update that has borked so much - I have a firewall that prevents/shuts down a lot of Windows "protections" so I may be the culprit but I prefer to think that if I can't do what I want with what I own, the software is the problem), whatever will make it rejuvenate would be appreciated.

      Honestly, it's had an awesome battery life (it can be in standby for a week and lose about 1/3 of the battery), and overall, I feel it's the last best thing Windows ever did. That being said... does anyone have a Surface and would you have recommendations (for any Surface)? If so, why, what distro, and what might you want to share?

      Thanks in advance!

      17 votes
    5. Recommendation Request: New Mouse

      I am looking for a new mouse, and I am overwhelmed by the choices. I would be grateful for recommendations. First, will a USB 2 mouse work in a USB 3 port? What I would like in a mouse: wired...

      I am looking for a new mouse, and I am overwhelmed by the choices.

      I would be grateful for recommendations.

      First, will a USB 2 mouse work in a USB 3 port?

      What I would like in a mouse:

      1. wired
      2. reasonably immune to dirt buildup causing false clicks

      Thanks for any input.

      Edit: Thanks for all of the replies. I read everyone. I decided to go with something cheap and basic since people told me my current mouse that does unwanted clicks is likely just worn out.

      26 votes
    6. USB Wi-Fi adapter suggestions

      My (older, now) computer has started having issues with the WiFi cutting out. I looked at the connection strength and saw it was sometimes dropping to 0, so I picked up a WiFi extender, and now...

      My (older, now) computer has started having issues with the WiFi cutting out.

      I looked at the connection strength and saw it was sometimes dropping to 0, so I picked up a WiFi extender, and now it’s signal strength is usually around 70% (Windows only shows a percentage). However, even while monitoring the strength via a PowerShell script to watch the connection strength, it still drops out while the connection strength is > 70%. When it “drops out” I’ll run a speed test and see that it is basically uploading/downloading with kbps speeds instead of Mbps.

      My other devices in the same room don’t seem to have any issues, so I’m wondering if my antenna or WiFi card (built in to the motherboard) are just failing.

      I know PCIe WiFi cards are better, but unfortunately, as it’s an older computer (can’t even support Windows 11), the motherboard only has one PCIe slot that is in-use by the GPU.

      So, any suggestions for a USB WiFi card that actually works? (Or additional ways of troubleshooting a failing wifi connection…)

      10 votes
    7. My hands-on experience with the Gun4IR

      Note: This is NOT a sponsored post. I'm just a happy customer. Background When the G'AIM'E Kickstarter was announced, I got the itch to play light gun games again. I grew up playing Time Crisis on...

      Note: This is NOT a sponsored post. I'm just a happy customer.


      Background

      When the G'AIM'E Kickstarter was announced, I got the itch to play light gun games again. I grew up playing Time Crisis on my PSX, stepping on a controller plugged into port 2 which acted as a makeshift pedal so I could mimic the arcade experience. A local pizza place near me had an Area 51 machine that I could play for a quarter, and over time I memorized the enemy layouts for that game so that I could play further and further on one coin.

      There are a variety of modern light gun models available now, though all of them are at the hobbyist/tinkerer level. There isn't one that "just works" smoothly and easily.

      The most well known is the Sinden, which achieves calibration on games by setting up a white border around the game on the screen. This allows the gun to establish its position within that border and "know" where it's shooting.

      Unfortunately, when I looked into the Sinden, it seemed like reviews were very mixed, with many mentioning that the border can be kind of a mess to get working. Apparently it can require a lot of legwork and messing around with settings and external programs and whatnot.

      After searching around for alternatives, I landed upon a different line of modern light gun and decided to, well, pull the trigger.


      Gun4IR Intro

      Gun4IR on its own isn't a standalone product so much as it is a framework for making a modern light gun. You can buy the individual components and put them all together in a gun casing, making a functional light gun of your choosing. For example, see the User Guide which goes into detail about which boards you'll need, pin guides, etc. People have made them in Nerf cases and 3D printed ones.

      Now, if I'm going to ding the Sinden for requiring too much tinkering, surely soldering wires onto PCBs is a step in the wrong direction?

      That's absolutely correct! The good news is that you can sidestep all of this. Gun4IR has some official pre-build sellers, meaning you can buy an already made gun -- no soldering needed! Their site sells builds for the UK, while, RPEG Electronics is their official pre-build seller for the US.

      From RPEG, I picked up a pre-built Gun4IR setup in a Guncon 2 housing.


      Gun4IR Basics

      As is implied by the name, Gun4IR uses 4 different IR clusters for calibration. You can buy a pack of LED sensors that plug into the USB port of your TV. You stick these, facing out, to the midpoint of the top, bottom, left, and right of your TV. The LEDs are black and their light can't be seen with the naked eye but can with a camera (you can check to make sure they're working with your phone).

      The gun comes with calibration software that gives you lines on your TV to show the mount points for the LEDs, check how the gun is seeing the sensors, line up shots, etc.

      I'm happy to report that, once calibrated, my gun is VERY accurate. I was honestly expecting a bit of jank, but it's genuinely spot on. There's a small bit of jitter that's noticeable when you have a crosshair on (some of that also might be coming from my unstable hands), but when you're playing a game without a crosshair, it's not enough to make you miss shots. The shots I've missed have been because I'm, well, bad at videogames.


      Games

      Because I wasn't wanting to tinker, I found a big download pack that promised me a pre-configured set of ROMs and emulators that were turnkey and compatible with Gun4IR. I spent days downloading all the individual parts from one of those sketchy download sites, getting all the parts of a multi-part RAR file.

      And when I started extracting it, wouldn't you know, it was INFESTED with viruses. I uploaded one of the .exes to VirusTotal and I've never seen so much red.

      Shame on me, though. I'm not an internet newbie, and I should know better than to trust random executable files, especially on Windows.

      So, I went seeking an alternate solution.


      Batocera

      Batocera is a Linux distribution focused on retro-gaming. You wouldn't use it as your daily driver, but you would use it if you want to just boot into something so you can play games. Additionally, Batocera has built-in light gun support! Perfect!

      I did my usual "setup emulation" dance that I've done so many times before: looking up worthwhile games to play, locating ripping ROMs, getting the right extracting BIOSes, etc. I also bought an external hard drive and attached it to my Windows TVPC. I can now boot off the hard drive to go into Batocera directly (because I didn't want to try to figure out dual booting with Windows).

      Batocera is like booting into an arcade cabinet, loading right into ES-DE. It doesn't really expose its file system to you by default, but it's got a killer feature that makes setup easy: Batocera automatically sets up a network share for you. This lets you access all of its folders from another device, meaning I could set everything up on my laptop and transfer it over easily to Batocera.

      Furthermore, Batocera automatically knows when you've got a light gun attached and will show a gun icon on games that are compatible. In theory, I'm able to navigate the interface just using my light gun, but in practice I also paired a bluetooth controller. (See Caveats section below for more on this.)

      You don't HAVE to use Batocera of course, but it ended up being so easy that it became my preferred setup.


      Gaming

      So, I got the gun calibrated, and I got my games set up in Batocera. It's time to shoot!

      I'm happy to report that the gun works fantastically. Like, seriously good.

      For most games and emulators, it "just works" which is exactly what I wanted. I tested out several different games on several different platforms, and it worked on stuff ranging from the Atari 2600 to Naomi arcade cabinets.

      I played through the first 10 rounds of Duck Hunt on the NES without missing a shot before getting bored and moving to something else. Time Crisis on the PlayStation (my original light gun love) plays wonderfully.

      I had a friend over this weekend who also loves light gun games and has nostalgia for TC (though his is for TC2 and TC3). We traded off rounds playing Time Crisis 2 (which ended up being a good way to do it, as I forgot how my arms and eyes need a rest after 15 minutes of light gun gaming). We beat the full campaign in 2 and almost beat 3.

      I also tried the gun out in some Windows games off of Steam, just to make sure that my Batocera success wasn't a fluke. Sure enough, it worked just fine!

      I now have an accurate, easy-to-use light gun setup that works on my large, modern LCD TV. I have hours of light gun gameplay ahead of me, and I'm thrilled.


      Caveats

      Wow, kfwyre, this sounds great! I can't wait to get one for myself!

      Easy there, cowboy/cowgirl/cowthem! Let me surface some of the rough edges, lest you think that this is too good to be true.

      Price

      The buy-in price was $300 for me: $250 for the gun and $50 for the IR sensors. This is NOT cheap. You have to REALLY like light gun games to make this worthwhile.

      Games

      Most light gun games have short campaigns and can be somewhat player-antagonistic. A lot of them are/were arcade cabinets designed to eat your quarters, so they have a lot of cheap deaths built in.

      You get longevity out of them by playing them over and over and memorizing enemy patterns and levels, but this type of gaming doesn't speak to everyone, so be aware that if you're not ready for that kind of gaming, your very expensive light gun might become a very expensive paperweight sooner rather than later.

      Sensors

      The sensors aren't designed to come on and off of your TV, as you would have to recalibrate each time you moved them. As such, you have to be comfortable with the sensors being on your TV/monitor permanently.

      If I'm being honest though, I thought permanent sensors would bother me more than they actually do. They are noticeable, especially when the TV is off, but they quickly become "invisible" in the same way that you don't notice your TV legs or the company logo. And when the TV is on you're so focused on the content you don't see them at all unless you're looking for them.

      Lack of Portability

      Because of the hardware sensors, you can't really have a portable setup in the way that you could with a Sinden or as promised by the G'AIM'E. I'd love to take a light gun setup with me to friends' houses or when we have our nerd weekend meetups, but this simply isn't built for that sort of thing.

      Stray LEDs

      The gun is susceptible to catching stray LEDs, which can throw off your inputs. It features sensitivity settings you can change in hopes of having it ignore them, but in practice I had to cover up some lights from other sources with electrical tape.

      The most egregious one is that my bottom sensor sits right below the IR input for my TV, which I learned features a blinking LED that was messing up my accuracy. If I cover it up with electrical tape, I lose the ability to use a remote, so I have to take that piece of tape on and off depending on whether I'm shooting or using the TV for something else.

      Windows-only Configuration

      In order to calibrate the Gun4IR hardware, you have to use the included software that comes with the gun. This only runs on Windows (note: you could possibly get it running through WINE or something, but I didn't try this).

      Once you calibrate the gun, you save the configuration to the gun itself, and it'll work in other environments (like Batocera), but at present there's a Windows dependency for this kind of setup.

      Prebuilt Gun Quality

      The US prebuilts use actual Guncon and Guncon 2 casings. These, of course, haven't been produced in a long time, so you're getting an old, used controller.

      My Guncon2 has a spongy d-pad in which inputs sink in and don't return to neutral, making the d-pad unusable. This is likely an issue with my specific build rather than the Gun4IR platform as a whole, but it's worth noting that, if you're getting a pre-built, you might have some inevitable QC issues because they're being built in guns from 20 years ago.

      That said, the actual Gun4IR components are rock solid so far.

      Controller "Requirement"

      I had dreams of controlling Batocera using only my gun, but I ended up connecting a controller as well. In part this is because it's simply easier to do things with the controller, but it's also because Gun4IR can't be configured to allow chorded inputs for its buttons, which are necessary for tasks like exiting a game. This makes the setup a little clunkier, but it's not a dealbreaker by any means.

      Recoil

      The gun technically has "recoil" (which, from what I can gather, is just a powerful rumble). It requires an external power supply. I don't have a plug near where I connect my gun to the computer, so I haven't tested this. It's entirely optional though, and I don't feel like I'm losing out on anything by not having it.

      Accuracy

      While I'm impressed with the gun's accuracy, I do lose a little bit of accuracy when I'm deep in the corners of my screen.

      I haven't figured out a way around this, but it's mostly a non-issue. For one, many light gun games don't tend to put targets in the corners anyway, and, even better, most of the games I'm playing are in 4:3 anyway, so they don't even come close to the corners of my 16:9 screen in the first place

      Lenses

      The corner inaccuracy mentioned above might be because I'm using a fisheye lens for the gun. It came with it, though it's optional. The fisheye gives the gun a wider viewing angle, which lets it see the sensors well even when moving around and lets you get closer to the screen without losing accuracy.

      I tried calibrating the gun without using the lens but I would have had to stand so far away from my TV that it would have been comical. The fisheye lens lets me stand at what I would consider the "right" distance for playing.

      Finding Solutions

      Being a niche product, it can be hard to find solutions online when something isn't working. The Sinden, for all the setup it requires, has a LOT of online documentation and discussions about it.

      When looking for Gun4IR help, I inevitably ended up reading through stuff about the Sinden to see if it would help. There isn't a lot out there about Gun4IR specifically, so you're kind of on your own. There is a Gun4IR Discord though that might be helpful. From what I saw, the support on there is less about getting specific things running and more about people needing help with the DIY build processes.

      PCSX2

      While most systems "just worked", PCSX2 didn't. I have no idea if this is because of the gun, the emulator itself, Batocera, or something else entirely. Time Crisis 2 and 3 open with their own Guncon calibration screens, and I would get stuck on them. I could shoot, and the screen would flash and give me the gun sound, but it wouldn't ever calibrate and move forward.

      I initially got around this by disconnecting the gun and loading the game so that it didn't pull up the calibration screen. Then I made a save state past that screen that I could load with the gun already connected. However, when I did this, the accuracy was consistently off.

      I finally learned that you can map a button called "Calibration Shot" in the settings for the emulator. This is, for some reason, different from a regular shot? This now lets me pass the calibration screen and have accurate shooting.

      Also, one time during Time Crisis 3 the gun seemed to get stuck in the upper right quadrant of the screen. It would still shoot, but the shots didn't line up with where we were aiming. We restarted the emulator, and the issue went away and hasn't cropped up again.


      Conclusion

      I am quite fond of my Gun4IR so far. It works better than I hoped it would, and it's unlocked a type of gaming that I thought was extinct. (For some reason, light gun games have a different feel to me than VR shooting gallery games. Maybe it's just nostalgia, but I like them a lot more?)

      I would recommend it ONLY if you're someone who knows they're going to get their money's worth out of it and are also willing to put up with the mostly minimal tinkering required to get it working. I say mostly minimal because, no matter what gun you're using, you're still going to have to set up emulators and ROMs and whatnot. The configuration that is specific to Gun4IR is really just installing the sensors, using the calibration app, and making sure your gun isn't catching other LEDs.

      Compared to the G'AIM'E (which is a bit of a fool's errand at this point because that one's still theoretical while this one's here to kiss you in real life), Gun4IR doesn't offer the "plug and play" promise, but it also is compatible with far more games. If you're in the market for the G'AIM'E, however, it's probably worth waiting out that release to see how it fares (and whether people can get it working with more games besides the included ones).

      On the other hand, if you're like me and need some light gun fun NOW then I give the Gun4IR a pretty strong recommendation, with a secondary recommendation for Batocera. The two of them together are really great, and I'm delighted that I have hours upon hours of shooting games ahead of me.

      If anyone has any additional questions or wants me to test specific games/systems, let me know. I'm happy to report back and help in whatever way I can.

      27 votes
    8. What dashcam do you use?

      My last dashcam was a total dud and wasn't even operational for 6 hours. I'm hoping to get some community recommendations on reliable units with good image quality. If you would also share the...

      My last dashcam was a total dud and wasn't even operational for 6 hours. I'm hoping to get some community recommendations on reliable units with good image quality. If you would also share the approx. length of time you've had/used it that would be a huge help as well. Thanks in advance!

      26 votes