The IFSC is an international governing body for competitive climbing, recognised by the Olympic Committee. Sport climbing is now an Olympic sport. There are three disciplines: lead, boulder, and speed. In the Olympics the climbers will do all three disciplines.

In speed climbing there are two 15 meter tall walls with hand and footholds attached. The two walls are the same as each other. The layout is fixed -- the same layout is used for each competition. Two climbers race each other up the wall, and the winners go on to race each other up the wall.

Here's Wired with a useful introduction to speed climbing: Why it's almost impossible to climb 15 meters in 5 seconds I like this video because it gives a good "elevator pitch" introduction to the 3 disciplines, and then gives a good detailed intro to speed climbing. They talk about beta and some of the beta-breaks that have decreased the time taken to get up the wall.

Here's Albert Ok with a quite personal video about his training for speed climbing. I won't say more because I don't want to spoil it, but it's a nice description of training. 5 Lessons I learned speed climbing for 150+ hours

Here's Magnus Midtbø and Pete Whittaker having fun in a gym, challenging each other to a speed climbing dual. (The whole video is a fun watch - they both seem like nice, chill, people and they have good on screen chemistry with each other). I challenge Pete to a speed climbing dual

The most recent speed world cup was in Chamonix 2019. The next one (for speed and boulder) will be 28th - 30th May in Salt Lake City. The IFSC tend to live stream the events.

On my desk I have two screens -- one off to the side for movies, TV, etc and my main in front. Sometimes I find myself wanting subtitles on my main screen. The main issue I've found, at least with macOS, is that the SRT players suck.

I figured, why not just generate a tiny black video with embedded subtitles?

ffmpeg -i subs.srt -t 3:00:00 -s 40x10 -f rawvideo -pix_fmt rgb24 -r 25 -i /dev/zero subs.mpeg

Set the ratio to be super small without being too small. This video is 40px by 10px and the video only takes a few seconds to generate. For me, this generated at ~850x speed.

From there, jack up the subtitle font size and shift it up a little bit so nothing gets cut off. This also works really well with tiling window managers.

Screenshot

The IFSC held the 2021 boulder world cup in Salt Lake City on 21st to 22nd May.

Semi-finals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwvwGG6AGdw
Finals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXC52wxDCGg

Bouldering is a form of climbing short routes without ropes. Bouldering is a test of both strength and puzzle solving. In competition bouldering there's a "boulder" made of large panels to which various holds have been placed by a route setter. Three of these are special holds - start, zone, and top. Climbers have to start from the start hold position. The aim is to climb the wall and place both hands on the "top" hold and keep them there for 3(?) seconds. Not all climbers will "top" all boulders! Top and zone are used for scoring.

The setter will have an intended method to complete the boulder. This is called the beta. Climbers who use some modification are said to "break the beta".

The winner is the person with most tops. If there is a tie for tops the person with the most zones will win that tie. If there's a tie for tops and zones they'll look at the number of attempts to top. If there's still a tie they'll look at number of attempts to zone.

There are four boulders in the semi finals, and four in the finals.

I'm submitting this because the strength and skill in bouldering is amazing to me. Here's a video about Shauna Coxsey (a very good British climber): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjG9k4cJ6VY And here's Magnus Midtbø, Pete Whittaker, and Mari Salvesen trying a new crack climbing route: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0nh6HmV51A (There's a "bat hang" at 20:08 where she's dangling by her feet which is just incredible)

Some jargon to be aware of --

crimp: a very small finger hold.
pinch: a method of gripping a hold. Imagine working a sock-puppet.
volume: the very large holds.
Sloper: a type of hold that you can't really pinch, so you place your flat hand on it and apply pressure.
jam / jamb / hand-jam / fist jam: a way of climbing cracks by inserting a flat hand into the space and then flexing it or forming a fist.